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Inhabiling^ the Inland parts of Iforfb ^merira . 




Inbahihug' fbe Seu^Coajts of'' labradof <//i(l Davis's Slvad . 



jl/:,<&r.i t7j,ri, M. 



T.Smith sc.I Ctrnunt^Jon Sl'-a^uJ 



l^iMlr/,^^ hi' JMiwrrum Tri. ?0*h.8J8 



VOYAGE 



OF 



HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP ROSAMOND 



TO 



NEWFOUNDLAND 

AND THE 

SOUTHERN COAST 

OF 

LABRADOR 



OF WHICH COUNTRIES 

NO ACCOUNT HAS BEEN PUBLISHED BY ANY BRITISH TRAVELLER 

SINCE THE REIGN OF QUEEN ELIZABETH. 



BY 

LIEUT. EDWARD CHAPPELL, R.N. 

AUTHOR OF A " VOYAGE TO HUDSON'S BAY." . 




LONDON: 
PRINTED FOR J. MAWMAN, LUDGATE STREET; 

By R. Watts, Crown Court, Temple Bar. ,/ 

1818. 



TO 

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 

LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE, 

FIRST LORD OF THE ADMIRALTY, - 



MY LORD, 

In presuming to dedicate this small 
volume to your Lordship, I sincerely trust 
that I shall not risk incurring your Lordship's 
disapprobation. From whom can a Naval writer 
hope for protection, if not from the Noble Per- 
sonage who has conferred so many benefits upon 
his Profession ? To whom can a young Sailor 
look for support, if not to him who possesses 
such strong hereditary and personal claims to be 
denominated "the seaman's friend!" 

I have the honour to subscribe myself, 
MY LORD, 
Your Lordship's 

Very obedient, humble servant, 

EDWARD CHAPPELL. 



LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. 



AS DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 



1. Tahtarian, or Hunting Indian, inhabi-" 

ting the Inland Parts of North America. 

2. Esquimaux, or Fishing Indian, inhabiting 

the Sea-Coasts of Labrador and Davis' 
Straits. 



Frontispiece. 



3. MAP of Newfoundland and the Southern Coast of 

Labrador; shewing the Author's Track . to face p. 1 

4. Outhne of an enormous Ice-berg; of which there are 

many on the Coast of Newfoundland . ... 20 

5. The same Ice-berg, in its inverted state, after being 

rolled over by a tremendous heave of the Sea . . 21 



6. Appearance of Cape Broyle, bearing n.w. distant' 

12 or 13 miles. 

7. Appearance of the Entrance to St. John's ; 

Cape Spear bearing w. by s. ; distant 8 miles. 

8. Remarkable Appearance of lofty Ice-bergs ; as 

seen in the Straits of Belle-isle. 



to face 
P. 25. 



9. Fish Flake, and Salting House ; as they are 

seen in all the Ports of Newfoundland ... 33 



10. En- 



LIST OF El^GRAVmGS— continued, 

10. Entrance to the Harbour of St. John's, New- 

foundland to face p. 42 

11. Wigwam of the Micmac Indians, m St. George's 

Bay, Newfoundland 59 

12. Frame of Nets for catching Seals in the small 

Bays on the Coast of Labrador 198 



CONTENTS. 



INTRODUCTION. 



CHAP. I. 

T. 1— :j2. 

PORTSMOUTH, TO ST. JOHN'S, THE CAPITAL OF 
NEWFOUNDLAND. 

The Rosamond sails from Portsmouth — Cove of Cork — 
Country around Cork — River Lee — Country -Seats — City 
of Cork — Mardyke — Irish Hospitality — Departure from 
Cork — Spike Island — Hurricane — Ice-Berg — Cruelty to 
HaUibuts — Cape Race — Overturn of an Ice-Berg — Spout 
— Cape Broyle — Broyie Bay — Catholic Priest — Drift Ice 

. • — Anchor at St. John's. 

CHAP. n. 

35—58. 

ST. JOHN'S, CAPITAL OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Discovery o/" Newfoundland — Taken possession of ly England 
— Province of Aval on settled — Entirely ceded to Great 
Britain — Entrance to St. John's Harbour — Fortifications — 
Naval Arsenal — Fish Stages — Town of St. John's — Govern- 
ment — Sir Richard Bleats — Judicature — Population — State 
of Society — Climate. 



CONTENTS. 

CHAP. III. 

59—89. 

FROM ST. JOHN'S, TO ST. GEORGE'S BAY. 

Departure from St. John's — Cape Pine— Placentia — St. Pierre 
and Miquelon — Fogs — Cape Breton — Cape Ray — Irish 
Fisherman — Anchor at St. George's Bay — Trout — Dia- 
logue with an Indian — Main River — Indian Village — 
Micmacs — Europeans — Entire Population of St. George's 
Bay — Boat-tax — Sail from St. George's Bay. 

CHAP. IV. 

90—112. 

FROM ST. GEORGE'S BAY, IN NEWFOUNDLAND, 
TO L'ANSE-A-LOUP BAY, IN LABRADOR. 

Probable Formation of the Straits of Belle-i^le — Expedi- 
tion of Richery — Narrow Escape — Green Island — Bradore 
Bay — L'Anse le Blanc — Anchor at Forteau — Esquimaux, 
or Fishing Indians — Mountaineer, or Hunting Indians—' 
Forteau Bay — Europeans of Forteau — Admiral of the 
Fishery — Sail from Forteau — Anchor at L'Anse a Loup. 

CHAP. V. 

113—146. 

L'ANSE A LOUP. 

Le Petit Nord — L'Anse a Loup — Conflagration — Author 
leaves his Ship — Departure of the Rosamond — System of 
Bank-fshing, from Raynal — Shore-flshery — Method of 
curing Cod — Qualities of Dried Cod — The Capelin — 
Scenery of Labrador — Berries — Birds — Animals — Fishes 
^-Musquitos. 



CONTENTS. 

CHAP. VI. 

147—165. 

FROM L'ANSE A LOUP TO PORT SAUNDERS. 

Return of the Rosamond — Cruize — Bonne Bay — Anchor at 
L'Anse a Loup — Mosses — Sail from L' Anse a Loup — Ice- 
Bergs — Belle-isle — Cape Charles — Salmon Fishery — Cape 
Chateau — Geological Ohservations — Extraordinary Cur- 
rents — Chace — Anchor at L'Anse a Loup — Sail from 
thence — Anchor at Port Saunders. 



CHAP.VIL 

166 — 187. 

PORT SAUNDERS. 

Ingornachoix Bay — Port Saunders — Solitude of the Forests 
— Red Indians of Newfoundland, the Aborigines of the 
Country — Attempts to civilize the Red Indians. 



CHAP. vm. 

188—206. 

FROM PORT SAUNDERS TO ST. JOHN'S. 

Sail from Port Saunders — Anchor at L'Anse a Loup | 
Account of an Esquimaux Trile — Horrid Sacrifice-^ Story 
of a Canadian Lady — Seal-fishery — Final departure from 
Labrador — Nautical Observations — Mount Joli — Anti- 
costi — Anchor at St. John's. 



CONTENTS. 

CHAP. III. 

59—89. 

FROM ST. JOHN'S, TO ST. GEORGE'S BAY. 

Departure from St. John's — Cape Pine — Placentia — St. Pierre 
and Miquelon — Fogs — Cape Breton — Cape Ray — Irish 
Fisherman — Anchor at St. George's Bay — Trout — Dia- 
logue with an Indian — Main River — Indian Village — 
Micmacs — Europeans — Entire Population of St. George's 
Bay — Boat-tax — Sail from St. George's Bay. 

CHAP.IV. 

: , ;- 90—112. 

FROM ST. GEORGE'S BAY, IN NEWFOUNDLAND, 
TO L'ANSE-A-LOUP BAY, IN LABRADOR. 

Prolahle Formation of the Straits of Belle-i^le — Expedi- 
tion of Richery — Narrow Escape— Green Island — Bradore 
Bay — L'Anse le Blanc — Anchor at Forteau — Esquimaux, 
or Fishing Indians—Mountaineer, or Hunting Indians — 
Forteau Bay — Europeans of Forteau — Admiral of the 
Fishery — Sail from Forteau — Anchor at L'Anse a Loup. 

CHAP. V, 

113—146. 

L'ANSE A LOUP. 

Le Petit Nord — L'Anse a 'hovc^— Conflagration — Author 
leaves his Ship— Departure of the Rosamond — System of 
Bank-fishing, from Raynal — Shore-fishery — Method of 
curing Cod — Qualities of Dried Cod — The Capelin — 
Scenery of Labrador — Berries — Birds-— Animals — Fishes 
-—Musquitos. 



CONTENTS. 

CHAP. VI. 

147—165. 

FROM L'ANSE A LOUP TO PORT SAUNDERS. 

Return of the Rosamond — Cruize — Bonne Bay — Anchor at 
L'Anse a Loup — Mosses — Sail from L' Anse a Loup — Ice- 
Bergs — Belle-isle — Cape Charles — Salmon Fishery — Cape 
Chateau — Geological Observations — Extraordinary Cur- 
rents — Chace — Anchor at L'Anse a Loup — Sail from 
thence — Anchor at Port Saunders. 



CHAP. VII. 

166—187. 

PORT SAUNDERS. 

Ingornachoix Bay — Port Saunders — Solitude of the Forests 
— Red Indians of Newfoundland, the Aborigines of the 
Country^-Attempts to civilize the Red Indians, 



CHAP. VIII. 

188—206. 

FROM PORT SAUNDERS TO ST. JOHN'S. 

Sail from Port Saunders — Anchor at L'Anse a Loup [ 
Account of an Esquimaux Tribe — Horrid Sacrifice-^Story 
of a Canadian Lady — Seal-fishery — Final departure from 
Labrador — Nautical Observations — Mount Joli — Anti- 
costi — Anchor at St. John's. 



CONTENTS. 

CHAP. IX. 

207-239. 

FROM ST. JOHN'S, TO CAPELIN BAY, AND BAY 
OF BULLS. 

State of the Capital — Vigilance of the Governor — Shipwreck 
of his Majesty's Ship Tweed — Sail from St. John's — 
Anchor at Capelin Bay — Distress of the Irish Emigrants 
— Excursion from Capelin Bay to Ferryland — Surrogate 
Court — First Settlement of Ferryland — Present State of 
Ferryland — Sail from Capelin Bay — Anchor at Bay of 
Bulls — Description of the place- — Return to St. John's. 

CHAP. X. 

240—260. 

FROM ST. JOHN'S TO ENGLAND. 

Anxiety of the Crew — Preparations for sailing — ■ Custom 
respecting Passengers — Desultoi'y Observations — Sail from 
St. John's — Part from the Admiral — Dispositions for 
Defunce — Storm — Part from the Convoy — Colonel Grant 
— Finesse of a Frenchman — Prize — Anchor at Spithead. 

APPENDIX. 

261—270. 

Account of the Wreck of the Transport Harpooner, near Cape 
Pine, in Newfoundland, o« the lOth November, 1816. 



INTRODUCTION. 



JN EWFouNDLAND was taken possession of 
by Great Britain during the reign of 
Elizabeth ; but no voyager has attempted 
to give a description of this island, since 
the time of James the First, The accounts 
of this country, in Gazetteers and other 
compilations of the same kind, are entirely 
taken from the Journals of those navigators 
who visited Newfoundland in company 
v^ith Sir Humphrey Gilbert, about the year 
1583. This celebrated seaman perished, 
v^ith his whole crew, in his voyage home- 
wards ; 



il INTRODUCTIO*]Sr. 

wards ; and, subsequently, a narrative of 
the expedition, written by Captain Hayes, 
the second in command, was published. 
Hayes's narrative contains the only informa- 
tion, of which the public are in possession^ 
concerning that valuable colony ; with the 
exception of a small tract, by Captain 
Whitbourne, printed about the same time ; 
and both are now become rare. The 
reader will, perhaps, consider the narra- 
tive of HayeSy as derived from HaMuyt, 
a curious addition to this volume. To 
Whitbournes book occasional reference will 
be made, in those instances where his ob- 
servations are connected with the inquiries 
made by the author, during the voyage of 
the Rosamond. 

^' A briefe relation of the Newfound lande, 
and the commodities thereof. 

" That which we doe call the Newfound- 
land, and the Frenchmen Bacalaos, is an 

Hand, 



INTRODUCTION. lU 

Hand, or rather (after the opinion of some) 
it consisteth of sundry Hands and broken 
lands, situate in the North regions of Ame- 
rica, vpon the gulfe and entrance of the 
great riuer called S, Laurence in Canada. 
Into the which, nauigation maybe made both 
on the South and North side of this Hand. 
The land lyeth South and North, containing 
in length betweene three and 400 miles, 
accounting from Cape Race (which is in 46 
degrees ^5 minuts) vnto the Grand bay in 
52 degrees of Septentrionall latitude. The 
Hand round about hath very many goodly 
bayes and harbors, safe roads for ships, the 
like not to be found in any part of the 
knowen world. 

*^ The common opinion that is had of 
intemperature and extreme cold that should 
be in this countrey, as of some part it 
may be verified, namely the North, where 
I grant it is more colde then in countries of 

Europe, 



IV IITTRODUCTION. 

Europe, which are vnder the same eleuation: 
euen so it cannot stand with reason and 
nature of the clime, that the South parts 
should be so intemperate as the bruit hath 
gone. For as the same doe lie vnder the 
climats of BnVoTZ, Anion, Poictou, in France, 
betweene 46 and 49 degrees, so can they 
not so much differ from the temperature of 
those countries : vnlesse vpon the out coast 
lying open vnto the Ocean and sharpe 
windes, it must in neede be subject to more 
colde, then further within the lande, where 
the mountaines are interposed, as walles 
and bulwarkes, to defend and to resist the 
asperitie and rigor of the sea and weather. — 
Some hold opinion, that the Newfound land 
might be the more suiect to cold, by how 
much it lyeth high and neere vnto the 
middle region. — I grant that not in New-- 
foundland alone, but in Germany, Italy, and 
Afrihe, euen vnder the Equinoctiall line, the 
mountaines are extreme cold, and seeldome 

uncouered 



INTRODUCTION. V 

uncouered of snow, in their culme and 
highest tops, which commeth to passe by 
the same reason that they are extended 
towards the middle region : yet in the 
countries lying beneth them, it is found 
quite contrary. Euen so all hils hauing 
their discents, the valleis also, and low 
grounds must be likewise hot or tempe- 
rate, as the clime doeth giue in Newfound- 
land : though I am of opinion that the 
Sunnes reflection is much cooled, and 
cannot be so forcible in the Newfound land 
nor generally throughout America, as in 
Europe or Afrike : by how much the Sunne 
in his diurnal I course from East to West, 
passeth ouer (for the most part) dry land 
and sandy countries, before he arriueth at 
the West of Europe or Afrike, whereby 
his motion increaseth heate, with little 
or no qualification by moyst vapours. 
Where, on the contrarie, he passeth from 
Europe and Afrike vnto America ouer the 
A Ocean, 



Vi INTRODUCTION. 

Ocean, from whence it draweth andcarieth 
with him abundance of moyst vapours, 
which doe qualifie and infeeble greatly the 
sunne's reuerberation vpon this countrey 
chiefly of Newfoundland, being so much to 
the Nortliivard. Neuerthelesse (as I sayd 
before) the cold cannot be so intollerable 
vnder the latitude of aQ. 47 and 48. 
especiall within land, that it should be 
unhabitable, as some doe suppose, seeing 
also there are very many people more to 
the North by a great deale. And in these 
Soiitli parts there be certaine beastes, Ounces 
or Leopards, and birdes in like manner 
which in the Sommer we haue scene, not 
heard of in countries of extreme and vehe- 
ment coldnesse. Besides as in the monethes 
of June, July, August, and September, the 
heate is somewhat more then m England dit 
those seasons : so men remaining vpon the 
South parts neere vnto Cape Rece, vntill 
after Hollandtide, haue not found the cold 

so 



INTRODUCTION^. VU 

SO extreme, nor much differing from the 
temperature of England. Those which 
haue arriued there after Nouemher and De- 
cemher haue found the snov\^ exceeding 
deepe, whereat no maruaile, considering the 
ground vpon the coast, is rough and vneuen, 
and the snow is driuen into the places most 
declyning, as the hkeis to be scene with vs. 
The Hke depth of snow happily shall not 
be found within land ypon the playner 
countries, which also are defended by the 
mountaines, breaking off the violence of the 
winds and weather. But admitting ex- 
traordinary cold in those South parts, aboue 
that with us here : it cannot be so great as 
that in Sivedlandy much less, in Muscouia or 
Russia; yet are the same countries very 
populous, and the rigor of cold is dis- 
pensed with by the commoditie of Stoues, 
warme clothing, meats and drinkes : all 
which neede not to be wanting in the New- 
found land, if we had intent there to inhabite. 

A 2 ''In 



Vm INTRODUCTION. 

'' In the South parts we found no inha- 
bitants, which by all likelihood haue 
abandoned those coastes, the same being 
so much frequented by Christians : But in 
the North are sauages altogether harmlesse. 
Touching the commodities, of this countrie, 
seruing either for sustentation of inhabitants, 
or for maintenance of traffique, there are 
and may be made diuers : so and it 
seemeth Nature hath recompenced that only 
defect and incommoditie of some sharpe 
cold, by many benefits : viz. With incredible 
quantitie, and no lesse varietie of kindes 
of fish in the sea and fresh waters, as Trouts, 
Salmo7is, and other fish to us vnknowen : 
Also Cod which alone draweth many nations 
thither, and is become the most famous 
fishing of the world. Abundance of 
whales, for which also is a very great trade 
in the bayes of Placentia, and the Grand 
Bay, where is made trane oiles of the whale. 
Herring, the largest that haue bene heard 

of. 



INTRODUCTION. IX 

of, and exceeding the alsti^ond herring of 
Norway : but hitherto was neuer benefit 
taken of the herring fishing. There are 
sundry other fish very deUcate, namely 
the Bonito, Lobsters, Turhut, with others 
infinite not sought after : Oysters hauing 
pearle but not orient in colour: I tooke 
it by reason they were not gathered in 
season. 

" Concerning the inland commodities, 
as wel to be drawen from this land, as from 
the exceeding large countries adioyning : 
there is nothing which our East and Northerly 
countries of Europe doe yeelde, but the 
like also may be made in them as plentifully 
by time and Industrie : Namely, rosen, pitchy 
tarre, sope ashes, deel boord, mastes for ships, 
hides, furres, fiaxe, hempe, come, cables, 
cordage, linnen-cloth, metfals, and many 
more. All which the countries will aford, 
and the soyle is apt to yeelde. 

''The 



X INTRODUCTION. 

^^ The trees for the most in those 
South parts, are Firre trees, Pine and 
Cypresse, all yielding Gumme and Turpen- 
tine. Cherrie trees bearing fruit no bigger 
then a small pease. Also peare trees, but 
fruitlesse. Other trees of some sorts to us 
unknowen. 

'' The soyle along the coast is not deepe 
of earth, bringing foorth abundantly peason 
small, yet good feeding for cattel. Roses, 
passing sweet, like vnto our muske roses in 
forme, raspases, a berry which we call 
Harts, good and holesome to eat. The 
grasse and herbe doth fat sheepe in very 
short space, proued by English marchants 
which haue caried sheepe thither for fresh 
victuall and had them raised exceeding fat 
in lesse than three weekes. Peason which 
our countreymen haue sowen in the time of 
May, haue come vp faire, and bene 
gathered in the beginning of August, of 

which 



INTRODUCTION. XI 

which our Generall had a present accept- 
able for the rarenesse, being the first fruits 
coming vp by art and industrie, in that 
desolate and dishabited land. 

^' Lakes or pools of fresh water, both 
on the tops of mountaines and in the vallies. 
In which are said to be muskles not vnlike 
to haue pearle, which I had put in triall, if 
by mischance falling vnto me, I had not 
bene letted from that and other good 
experiments I was minded to make. 

*' Foiile both of water and land in great 

plentie and diuersitie. All kind of greene 

Joule : Others as bigge as bustards, yet not 

the same. A great white foiile called of 

some a Gaunt. 

^' Upon the land diuers sorts of haukes, 
as faulcons, and others by report : Par- 
tridges most plentifuU larger then ours, gray 

and 



Xll INTRODUCTION. 

and white of colour, and rough footed like 
doues, which our men after one flight did 
kill with cudgels, they were so fat and 
unable to flie. Birds, some like blackbirds, 
linnets, canary birds, and other very small. 
Beasts of sundry kindes, red deare, buffles 
or a beast, as it seemeth by the tract and 
foote very large in maner of an oxe. 
Beares, ounces or leopards, some greater 
and some lesser, ivolues, foxes, which to 
the Northward a little further are black, 
whose furre is esteemed in some countries 
of Europe very rich. Otters, beauers, mar- 
ternes. And in the opinion of most men 
saw it, the Generall had brought vnto him 
a Sable aliue, which he sent vnto his bro- 
ther Sir Jo^tz Gf/ieT^ knight of Deuonshire : 
but it was neuer deliuered, as after I vnder- 
stood. We could not obserue the hun- 
dredth part of creatures in those vnhabited 
lands : but these mentioned may induce vs 
to glorifie the magnificent God, who hath 

^ super- 



INTRODUCTION. XllI 

superabundantly replenished the earth with 
creatures seruing for the vse of man, 
though man hath not vsed the fift part of 
the same, which the more doth aggrauate 
the fault and foolish slouth in many of our 
nation, chusing rather to liue indirectly, 
and very miserably to liue and die within 
this realme pestered with inhabitants, then 
to aduenture as becommeth men, to obtaine 
an habitation in those remote lands, in 
which Nature very prodigally doth mini- 
ster vnto mens endeauours, and for art to 
worke vpon. 

*' For besides these alreadie recounted 
and infinite moe, the mountaines generally 
make shew of minerall substance : Iron 
very common, lead, and somewhere copper. 
I will not auerre of richer mettals : albeit 
by the circumstances following, more then 
hope may be conceiued thereof. 

'' For 



XIV INTRODUCTION. 

" For amongst other charges giuen to 
inquire out the singularities of this coun- 
trey, the Generall was most curious in the 
search of mettals, commanding the minerall 
man and refiner, especially to be diligent. 
The same was a Saxon borne, honest, and 
religious, named Daniel, Who after search 
brought at first some sort of Ore, seeming 
rather to be iron then other mettall. The 
next time he found Ore, which with no 
smal shew of contentment he deliuered 
vnto the Generally vsing protestation, that 
if siluer were the thing which might satisfie 
the Generall, and his followers, there it 
was, aduising him to seeke no further : 
the perill whereof he vndertooke vpon his 
life (as deare vnto him as the CrOwne of 
Englajid vnto her Maiestie, that I may vse 
his owne words) if it fell not out accord- 
ingly. 

'' My 



rNTRODUCTION. XV 

^' My selfe at this instant liker to die then 
to liue, by a mischance, could not follow 
this confident opinion of our refiner to my 
owne satisfaction : but afterward demand- 
ing our Generals opinion therein, and to 
haue some part of the Ore, he replied : 
^ Content your selfe, I haue scene enough, 
' and Avere it but to satisfie my priuate 
' humor, I would proceede no further. The 
' promise vnto my friends, and necessitie to 
' bring also the South countries within com- 

* passe of my patent neere expired, as we 
^ haue alreadie done these ISfoi^th parts, do 
' only perswade me further. And touching 

* the Ore, I haue sent it aboord, whereof I 
' would haue no speech to be made so long 
' as we remaine within harbor: here being 

* both Portiigals, Biscains, and Frenchmen 

* not farre off, from whom must be kept any 
' bruit or muttering of such matter. When 

* we are at sea proofe shal be made : if it be 

* to our desire, we may returne the sooner 

' hither 



XVI INTRODUCTION. 

^ hither againe/ Whose answere I iudged 
reasonable, and contenting*me well: where- 
with I will conclude this narration and 
description of the Neiufoiind land, and pro- 
ceede to the rest of our voyage, which 
ended tragically." 

n^ "^ "^ "^ 

This is the foundation and nearly the 
substance of all the information that has 
existed in this country respecting New-- 
foiindland, since its discovery by Cabot: 
and it is indeed extraordinary, that the 
public should have more copious intelli- 
gence with regard to the manners and 
customs of the islands in the Pacific Ocean, 
than has been yet obtained concerning the 
present state of a colony, which, as a 
nursery for seamen, is of more importance 
to Great Britain than any of her posses- 
sions in North America, The author has 
ventured to insert the whole of Hayes's 
Narrative, more as a curiosity than an 

authentic 



Ij^TRODUCTION. XVll 

authentic document ; since it must be evi- 
dent to every reader, who will be at the 
pains of comparing it with the account 
given in the following pages, that it is high 
time something more satisfactory, and 
nearer to the truth, should meet the public 
eye. Not that it is by any means- intended 
to undervalue the fidelity and accuracy of 
Hayes; who, as far as his information 
went, certainly related what he believed to 
be true. It is the deficiency, rather than 
the fallacy, of his observations, w^hich is 
most obvious on perusing his description of 
Newfoundland. 

The strictures which the author has pre- 
sumed to make upon the cause of failure 
in our illustrious circumnavigator. Captain 
Cooh, during his endeavours to penetrate 
the Po/ar seas, were the result of long per- 
sonal experience. They have been extorted 
by a consciousness of the importance of 

the 



XVIU INTRODUCTION. 

the subject, to which they refer ; inasmuch 
as it must be evident to every mariner, 
acquainted with those seas, that no attempt 
towards a North-east or North-west passage 
is Hkely to be attended with success, on the 
part of any Commander who shall adopt 
the method which Cooh pursued. Great 
Britain, in her endeavours to accomplish 
this desirable end, can only hope for a 
prosperous termination of the enterprise, 
by following a system of nautical tactics, 
which, although perhaps familiar to the 
Hudson s-Bay traders in the time when 
Cook lived, had never then been practised 
by any of our naval commanders. 

The professional Reader, after having 
perused the author's observations upon the 
foregoing subject, will probably acquiesce 
in the imperious necessity of providing 
every ship destined for Northern Disco- 
veries with an Officer whose peculiar 

province 



INTRODUCTION. XIX 

province should be that of an Ice Pilot ; a 
situation of the utmost responsibility; and 
for which, nothing but long actual expe- 
rience in the arduous service of Northern 
voyages can qualify any candidate. 



r ' 



VOYAGE, 



CHAP. I. 

MRTSMOUTH TO ST. JOHN'S, THE CAPITAL OF 
NEWFOUNDLAND. 

The Rosamond sails from Portsmouth — Co?;e of Cork 
'•^•Country around Cork — River Lee — Country -Seats 
•—City of Cork — Mardyke — Irish Hospitality— Depar- 
ture from Cork — Spike tsland— Hurricane— Ice-Berg 
^—Cruelty to HaUibuts — Cape Race—- Ovei turn of an 
Ice-Berg — Spout — CapeBroyle—BToyleBay— Catholic 
Friest — Drift Ice — Anchor at St. John's. 

IT was early in the month of February , 
1813, that His Majesty's ship, Rosamond^ 
commanded by Captain Donald Campbell, 
lying at Spithead, received orders from the 
Admiralty to repair forthwith to the Cove 
of Cork, in order to collect the first spring 
convoy, bound for ISeicfoiindland, Halifax^ 
and the River St, Lawrence, 

B Accord- 



2 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Accordingly, she left Portsmouth; and 
having sailed quickly down the British 
Channel, with a strong gale at east, 
passed between the dangerous Rocks of 
Scilly and the Land's End of England, 
during a very stormy night, and reached 
Cork on the evening of the sixth of Fe- 
bruary. 

Upon our arrival at this port, we were 
associated in the duty of collecting the 
convoy, and issuing the necessary instruc- 
tions, with his Majesty's ship Crescent, 
Captain Qiiilliam : and although we had 
soon assembled a large fleet of merchant- 
men, yet we were detained at this place 
upwards of sixty days, by the prevalence of 
contrary winds. 

The Cove of Cork is undoubtedly one of 
the safest and finest harbours known : but 
it is attended with one disadvantage, which 

will 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 3 

will ever render it an inconvenient port 
for the assemblage of fleets destined for 
the New World \ because an easterly wind, 
which is favourable for their voyage across 
the Atlantic, renders it at the same time 
extremely difficult for a large convoy to beat 
out of the harbour. As a proof of this, it 
need only be mentioned, that we attempted 
three times to leave the place with 
the assistance of light easterly winds, and 
were as often compelled to relinquish the 
task as impracticable. The same difficulty 
does not retard the departure of single 
ships. It is well known to seamen, that, in 
large convoys, some few vessels will always 
lag in the rear, whatever exertion may be 
used to urge them forw ard : and in sailing 
with an easterly wind from the Cove of 
Corh, it is necessary to take advantage of 
the very first of the ebb ; therefore the 
loiterers of the fleet will inevitably be so 
late on the tide, that the Commodore of 
B 2 the 



4 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

the convoy must either proceed upon his 
voyage w^ithout those vessels, or return 
again into the harbour to rejoin them. 

It may perhaps be imagined, that enough 
has already been written respecting the 
second city of Ireland, and that any re- 
marks respecting its present state v^ould be 
entirely out of place here : yet it is impos- 
sible to avoid making a few observations 
upon the enchanting beauty of its sur- 
rounding scenery, the magnificent and 
stately mansions of the great, contrasted 
with the savage wildness which is so con- 
spicuous amidst the mud- walled cabins of 
the peasantry ; and, above all, upon the 
hospitality and social humour characteristic 
of the genuine Irish, 

Nothing can be more varied than the 
state of agriculture in the space that inter- 
venes between Cove and the city of Cork. 

In 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 5 

In one place, the country is highly culti- 
vated; in another, deplorably neglected: 
and the same may be said of all the coun- 
try around Middle ton, Cloyne, Bally na- 
curra, Passage, and Ballyhrichen, 

The beauty of the river between Cork 
and the port of Cove has excited the admi- 
ration of every stranger, ^nd has been the 
theme of many a laboured description. 
Nothing in Nature can be more strikingly 
picturesque ; consequently, no power of 
language can convey any adequate idea of 
its romantic loveliness. To be viewed in 
all its varied features, it should be seen from 
the water : both sides of the river are then 
visible, profusely decorated with the most 
superb mansions, castles, villas, cottages, 
shrubberies, plantations, gardens, fields^ 
and meadows. Beyond these, on either 
side, rise those majestic hills, between 
which the Lee rolls its pellucid waters; 

and 



b VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

and at the upper end of this valley, appa- ' 

rently seated upon the stream itself, stands j 

the magnificent city of Cork. ! 

From a distant view of the country-seats 

which are so plentifully scattered along the 

banks of this enchanting river, a stranger ] 

will be led to anticipate much gratification j 

upon a nearer and more minute inspection : I 

but as he approaches them for this purpose, 

the illusion is speedily dispelled. Although 

the grounds be laid out with as much taste | 

and elegance as those of the same descrip- j 

tion in England, yet there is such a want | 

of neatness and order in most of the gen- ■ 

tlemen's mansions around Corh, that the | 

effect of their really beautiful designs is 

thereby considerably diminished, and in ^ 

many instances totally destroyed. Grass j 

grown high and yellow, walks covered ; 

i 

with dead leaves, shrubberies strewed with '\ 

broken branches, and gardens overrun with 

weeds. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. / 

weeds, are the objects that particularly 
attract attention, and excite regret in view- 
ing these otherwise princely residences. 

In all general descriptions of this nature, 
there are, of course, many exceptions to 
be admitted. In no place, for example, 
can there be found a more exemplary 
display of regularity and order, than is 
visible in the beautiful domain of Castle 
Martyr, the magnificent residence of Lord 
Shannon, 

There is nothing, perhaps, in the city of 
Cork, that will so soon be noticed by a 
traveller, as the irregularity of the build- 
ings in the principal streets. A large and 
splendid jeweller's shop, three or four 
stories high, appears next door to the 
wretched tumble-down edifice of a soap 
and tallow-chandler. There are two good 
streets: the largest of which is broad, 

but 



U VOyAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

but crooked , the other is narrow, and 
straight. In the great market-place, or 
parade, there is an equestrian statue of one 
of our kings ; but it is a very dispropor- 
tionate piece of sculpture. 

The number of Protestants and Catholics 
here may be considered as nearly equal ; 
and there are seven places of worship set 
apart for the use of each respectively. 

But the most noble object in the city of 
Corh^ and that which most excites the 
admiration of a stranger, is the Mardyhe 
Walk. The city itself stands upon an 
island^ formed by two branches of the River 
Lee\ and from thence a long bank, or spit 
of land, extends above the city ; on each 
side of which the stream rolls its silver 
waters, among numberless little islands co- 
vered with the richest verdure. No place 
CQuld have been better calculated for ^ 

public 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 9 

public promenade than the bank in ques- 
tion. Nature had done much towards it; 
and Art has nobly completed the work. A 
beautiful double rovs of stately trees em- 
bellishes its sides, affording shade from the 
heat of the sun. At the town entrance, a 
fine pair of cast-iron gates have been 
erected. The other extremity is terminated 
by a romantic villa, belonging to a private 
gentleman. Entering this celebrated walk, 
the long vista of trees, arching over head, 
appears to have no end ; and erroneous 
notions are frequently formed as to its 
probable length. The author walked from 
one extremity of it to the other, and 
counted sixteen hundred paces. 

However well known the fact may be, 
that hospitality is a paramount virtue 
among the Irishy yet it would be unjust not 
to mention it in a particular manner, 
among the present remarks : as those only, 

who 



10 VOYAGE TO JTEWFOUNDLAND 

who have experienced the kindness of this 
people, can form an adequate idea of their 
extraordinary munificence, hberahty, and 
of that suavity of manners w^hich has ever 
served to distinguish and characterize the 
sons of Hibernia, A mere introduction to 
an Irish gentleman is here thought equi- 
valent to a letter of recommendation ; and 
an acquaintance with one family is the sure 
prelude to a familiar intercourse with the 
whole neighbourhood =^. 

It was drawing towards the latter end of 
April before we quitted the Cove of Cork; 
when, with a fleet of fifty sail in company, 
we took our departure. 

As 

* The author has, perhaps, been urged to say more 
upon this subject than he would otherwise have done, 
owing to his gratitude for the polite and benevolent atten- 
tions he experienced, when he was almost a stranger in the 
country, in consequence of an accidental introduction to the 
Rev. Robert Longfield, of Castle Mary, near Cloyne, son of 
Colonel Longfield, M.P. for the City of Corh 



AXD THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 11 

As the ship sailed out of harbour, we 
could not avoid noticing the formidable 
appearance of Spihe Island, the citadel of 
Cove, Immense sums hare been expended 
in endeavours to render this fortress im- 
pregnable : but we were informed, that the 
works had been lately discontinued, owing 
to a discovery that the island itself is over- 
looked, or, to speak in a military phrase, 
commanded by the heights behind it. 

Our voyage across the Atlantic pre- 
sented little worthy of observation. We 
arrived on the Great Bank o? Newfoundland 
about the eighteenth of May ; when the 
Commodore of the convoy made a signal 
for the whole fleet to pass within hail. 
In pursuance of this order, every vessel 
crowded around the Crescent \ and at the 
same instant, there arose such a violent 
blast of wind, that we were all thrown 
into a state of the most imminent danger 

and 



12 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

and alarm : each ship dreading to be dashed 
against another ; and, of course, all made 
sail to escape from the throng : but this 
necessary precaution proved to be the 
source of ail the mischief that ensued ; for 
the wind suddenly shifting, blew with ter- 
rible fury from an opposite quarter, demo- 
lishing masts, yards, and rigging. Happily 
for us, we had remained with every sail 
clewed up, since the beginning of the 
tempest, and by this means we escaped any 
material injury. Shortly afterwards, we 
passed one of the convoy that was lying in a 
dismasted state, with part of her side beaten 
in, and her crew was perceived to be 
labouring hard at the pumps. 

It is remarkable that no lives were lost 
in our fleet upon this occasion ; although 
many of the ships were dismasted, and 
others lost their sails and yards in con- 
sequence of the sudden shifting of the 

hurricane. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 13 

hurricane. Mention has been made of this 
tempest merely as a caution to other 
vessels which may hereafter happen to 
pursue the same route; since nothing can 
be a more common occurrence, or more 
dangerous, than such sudden gusts and 
shifts of wind upon the Banks of Neivfound- 
land. Why they are peculiar to those 
immense heaps of sand, is perhaps a ques- 
tion not easily answered. Philosophical 
theories upon such abstruse subjects are 
often found to be both fallacious and ab- 
surd : and it is more incumbent upon a 
mariner to state facts, than to reason con= 
cerning matters in which he is full as 
likely to be tvrong as to be right. 

Imme- 

* Columbus, the mighty genius who could first imagine 
and afterwards realize the existence of a New World was, 
notwithstandmg, frequently mistaken in his notions respect- 
ing the most trivial phsenomena. " The violent swell and 
agitation of the waters on the coast of Trinidad led him to 
conclude this to be the highest part of the terraqueous 
globe." Robertsons Hist, of America, Vol I. p. 334. Note^^i- 



14 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Immediately aftef the hurricane had sub- 
sided, we descried the first beacon of a 
frozen coast, in a large mass of floating ice, 
which appeared hke a vast rock of alabaster, 
upon our weather-beam. Few on board our 
ship had ever before seen an ice-berg: we 
gazed upon it, therefore, with mingled feel- 
ings of astonishment and awe. That which 
made it the more singular, was its perfect 
resemblance to the principal Pyramid of 
Dj'iza, near Cairo in Egypt, as we had seen 
that surprising monument of antiquity repre- 
sented in some old books of travels. Shortly 
after this, however, we began to lose the 
pleasure that was at first experienced in 
comparing these sublime works of Nature 
with corresponding specimens of Art; such 
as, pyramids, pillars, obelisks, temples, and 
tumuli : for the certainty of their being 
extremely dangerous neighbours, during 
dark and stormy nights^ entirely destroyed 

the 



AXD THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 15 

the gratification we might otherwise have 
felt, in viewing them. 

Upon the igth of May, we tried for 
soundings, and found bottom with thirty- 
six fathoms of line. Conceiving this to be 
a convenient depth of water for Jishing, we 
threw over hooks; and in about a quarter 
of an hour, every mess in the ship was 
well supplied with an abundance of the 
finest cod-fish. Hallibufs, also, of the most 
enormous size, wxre frequently drawn to ^ 
the surface of the water : but it was ex- 
ceedingly difficult to get them on board ; as 
they generally succeeded, by an apparently 
slight exertion of their ponderous strength, 
in breaking away from every means that 
could be devised for securing them. 

The fishermen oi Newfoundland are much 
exasperated whenever an unfortunate 7za//iSw^ 
happens to seize upon their baits : they are 

frequently 



16 VOYAGE TO NEWI^OUNBLAND 

frequently known, in such cases, to wreak 
their vengeance on the poor fish, by 
thrusting a piece of w^ood through its gills, 
and in that condition turning it adrift upon 
the ocean. The efforts which are made by 
the tortured fish, to get its head beneath the 
water, afford a high source of amusement 
to the barbarous fishermen ; who have fa- 
cetiously styled this operation, the *' sprit* 
sail yarding of a hallihuty 

About the 2 1st of May, we came in 
sight of Cape Race, the south- eastern ex- 
tremity of Newfoundland: and this first 
view of it led us to imagine that it would 
be impossible ever to approach within many 
leagues of our destined port. The whole 
line of coast, as far as the eye could reach, 
appeared encircled with an impenetrable 
zone of crystal. Indeed, this prodigious 
quantity of floating ice surrounded our 
convoy from the west-^south^xs^est to the 

south- 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 17 

south-east point of the compass ; thus leaving 
only ten points, out of the thirty-two, 
open for an escape. It was through this 
space that Commodore Quilliam sailed away 
in the Crescent; taking with him that part 
of the fleet destined for Nova Scotia, and 
leaving under our protection those vessels 
that were bound for St. John's in New- 
foundland* 

Our little Rosamond being thus exalted 
into the situation of a Commodore's ship, 
we put her head towards the north-north- 
east, in hopes of finding some opening 
through which we might be able to pene- 
trate the formidable barrier of ice that 
opposed our passage: nor were we disap- 
pointed; for towards evening we perceived 
a place where the ice had loosened con- 
siderably, and through this channel the ships 
of our fleet butted their way. 



In 



18 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

In the voyages published by those v^ho 
first visited this country, too httle notice 
has been taken of the dangers attending its 
navigation. In their eagerness to recom- 
mend Newfoundland as an acquisition worthy 
of the British Empire, they have omitted, 
or slightly passed over, those dreadful tem- 
pests, thick fogs, rocky shores, and icy 
perils, to which a seaman is exposed upon 
the coasts of this island*. Later writers 
have run into the other extreme ; and re- 
presented those dangers as more intimi- 
dating than '' the most formidable rampart 
erected by military art, the dreadful can- 
nonade of a besieged town, or the terrors 
of the most skilful and obstinate sea- 
fight f." It will hereafter be attempted to 

set 

* See the Voyages of Sir Humphrey Gilhert, and of 
Captain Whitbourne ; and the letters from the first settlers. 
Captains Powell and JVynne. 

t RaynaH Hist, of the East and West Indies, vol. VII. 
p. 20'i. Book XVII. Lond. 1783. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 19 

set these matters in a true point of view, by- 
relating all occurrences simply as they 
presented themselves to the author, with- 
out embellishment or concealment of any 
kind. 

On the twenty- third of May, a gale 
came on, attended by such a thick fog, 
that our fleet were entirely dispersed, and 
we were never afterwards able to collect 
them again together. The masters of those 
vessels were, for the most part, old traders, 
who were well acquainted with the coast 
'of Newfoundland ; and the greater part of 
the convoy therefore succeeded in reaching 
the harbour of St, Johns before the Rosa- 
mond. 

It was during the dreadful gale and 
in the thick fog above mentioned that 
we passed one of those lofty ice-herg^ 
which are so numerous on these coasts. 

C 2 It 



20 VOYilGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

It was in this shape, 




and of an enormous size. The* waves broke 
their fury upon its sides, causing it to roll 
to and fro, with a noise that it would 
baffle any person to describe. Our horror 
and astonishment may be conceived, when, 
on a tremendous heave of the sea, it rolled 
completely over, with a crash that might 
have been heard at an immense distance. 
We trembled at the sight ; for the Rosa- 
mond was not above four cables' length 

distant 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 21 

distant at the moment; and it was a mass of 
ice that would, by its contact, have crushed 
a first-rate ship of war, as easily as the foot 
of Goliath would have demolished a spider. 

The aspect of this ice-berg had now 
entirely changed ; and in its inverted state, it 
presented the following outline : 




The surface of the ice exhibited a most 
beautiful shining green hue, occasioned 
either by its long continuance beneath the 
sea, or to that effect of contrast which is 
known to have such remarkable properties 
in the modification of colours. 

The gale having at length subsided, and 

some 



22 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

some days elapsed since we lost sight of the 
land, we again attempted to reach the 
coast : but here another thick fog threw 
us into a state of the greatest per- 
plexity and uneasiness ; as we had rea- 
son to suppose, from our reckoning, that 
the shore could not be far distant. How- 
ever, the wind being light, and the sea 
smooth, we ventured to continue our zoest- 
erly course ; until, upon listening atten- 
tively. Captain Campbell imagined that he 
could distinguish a low murmuring, like 
the sound produced by surge, when dash- 
ing against a distant reef of rocks. We 
thereupon immediately let fall the anchor : 
and this proved to have been a very wise 
precaution. The fog dispersing, we found 
ourselves near a dangerous part of the 
coast, called Shoal-bay, situate a {q\y miles 
to the southward of S^. Johns, 

We had not before obtained so near a 

view 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 23 

view of Newfoundland ; therefore the whole 
crew were extremely earnest in their con- 
templation of its naked rocks and frowning 
forests ; and as the mist slowly cleared 
away, every point of land became the sub- 
ject of their scrutiny. Immediately opposite 
to the ship, appeared a remarkable natural 
curiosity, called the Spout, w^hich is visible 
at a great distance from the shore. We 
had no opportunity of examining this phaeno- 
menon minutely; but could easily perceive 
that the spout in question was occasioned by 
a column of water forcing itself through 
a fissure in the rock; and being impelled 
to an amazing height, it assumed the 
appearance of volcanic smoke. In this state 
it admirably answers the purpose of a land- 
mark, for those who are otherwise im- 
acquainted with the coast. 

^ When the fog was entirely dispersed, 
we discovered His Majesty's ships, Dryad 

and 



24 VGYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

and Comus^, at anchor near the Rosa- 
mond. These ships had left Broyle Bay in 
the morning, with an intention of getting 
into St, Johns: but the quantity of floating 
ice rendering that port quite inaccessible, it 
was proposed to return again to Broyle Bay, 
Accordingly, we joined their company; and 
towards evening the three ships came to 
anchor in that place. 

Cape Broyle, standing at the entrance 

of 

* This ship was afterwards destined to meet her fate upon 
the coast of Newfoundland* The following intelligence of 
her wreck appeared in the Papers of December l^th, 1816. 
" Torlay. — Arrived the schooner Plymouth, Captain Davis, 
of this port. By this vessel we learn the particulars of the 
loss of His Majesty's ship, Comus, in the Bay of St. Mary's, 
at midnight, on the 24th of October ; and the wonderful 
escape of the officers and men, in four small boats, after 
rowing from four in the morning till six in the evening, in 
search of a spot to land; then obliged to march back 
eighteen miles, to the wreck, in search of provisions, where 
they remained several hours before they could procure anyi 
nor had they a change of clothes, or a bed to lie upon, 
before they reached Renews, eleven days after the ac- 
cident." 






IIIIIIH^^^^ 



!lllli!ii!llll!l!llil!!ll!li! 



''^5 




AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 25 

of the bay bearing the same name, is, 
perhaps, the most remarkable promontory 
on the whole eastern coast of Newfound- 
laud. In appearance, it resembles an 
enormous saddle t ; and as it stands about 
thirty miles to the southward of the Capital, 
it is extremely useful, to determine the 
position of any vessel, upon her first 
obtaining sight of the island. The know- 
ledge of proper land-marks is of the utmost 
importance to mariners navigating the 
coast of Newfoundland, The dense fogs 
that continually hover around the shores 
frequently render it impossible to obtain a 
sight of the sun for many days : so that the 
difficulty of ascertaining the exact latitude 
and position of a ship is here productive 
of much inconvenience and mischief. 

Broyle Bay IS a deep inlet: its entrance 

lies 

f See the annexed Sketch of Cape Broyle, taken by the 
author, from the deck of the Rosamond 



26 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND j 

lies at the foot of the Cape before men- ' 

tioned. The depth of water is sufficient ^ 

for vessels of almost any size, and the j 

harbour is sheltered from all winds. On ] 
steering into this place, great care ought 

to be taken, to keep close in with the j 

southern shore of the channel ; as there is ] 
a dangerous sunken rock lying upon the 

north side of it, near Cape Brigus. \ 

There are not more than five or six j 
families settled within this bay ; who, of ' 
course, obtain their livelihood by the curing 
of cod: and they afterwards carry the 
product of their labour to St, Johns, where ; 
they dispose of it to the merchants, in ex- | 
change for provisions and necessaries ; but 
they very seldom receive specie in return ^ 
for their Jish. From this it will appear 
evident, that those merchants, who reside 
constantly at St, Johns, receive a double 
profit : the first arising from their foreign 

exports j 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 27 

exports of salted cod', and the second, 
from the articles which they supply to 
the out-harhour'^ settlers, in return for this 
commodity. It follows, therefore, as a 
natural consequence, that the principal 
mercantile men of this country, by mono- 
polizing almost the whole of the external 
and internal trade, are thereby enabled to 
amass the most splendid fortunes with an 
inconceivable rapidity ; whilst the middling 
and lower classes of fishermen may toil 
from year to year, with patient and un- 
remitted industry, and yet find themselves, 
in their old age, many degrees worse off 
than when first they crossed the Atlantic^ 
as wretched emigrants from their native 

countryt. _ 

^ The 

* All the ports of Newfoundland, except that of the 
Capital, St. Johns, are called Out-harhours. 

t The author is aware that he shall have occasion to 
resume this subject in a subsequent part of his Work: but he 
trusts that the Reader will make an allowance for any seeming 
repetition, which it is almost impossible to avoid, in the de- 
scription of a people who depend entirely upon the Jisheries 
for the means of their existence. 



28 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

The lower order of fishermen in 'New- 
foundland, being principally Roman-Catholics 
from Ireland, maintain a little jolly priest 
of that persuasion ; who gains a precarious 
livelihood, by trudging on foot along the 
coast from one harbour to another, 

'' To shrive the dying, bless the dead." 

We saw this personage, during our stay at 
Broyle: he was a short rotund man, who cer- 
tainly did not exhibit, in his own person, any 
outward appearance of having suffered either 
from severe penance or bodily mortification. 

In addition to the recommendation of 
its being a very secure anchorage, the 
shores of Broyle Bay are covered with 
wood ; and a cataract of the clearest fresh 
w^ater falls into the sea, from a precipice 
near the huts of the settlers. There is a 
small patch of cultivated land at the head 
of the bay. 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR* 29 

The sudden changing of the drift or 
low ice, upon the coasts of Neiofoundland 
and Labrador, is very remarkable. We 
had entered Broyle Bay in the evening, 
through an open sea, entirely clear of 
obstruction as far as the eye could extend : 
but on the morning of the next day, the 
harbour was completely choked with ice, 
so as almost to render it possible to walk 
from the ship to the shore: and upon 
ascending the mast, we could perceive that 
the wide ocean itself was also one vast 
plain of broken fragments. To account 
for this singular phaenomenon, it ought to 
be observed, that there is a strong southerly 
current continually setting along the whole 
of the shores extending from Davis Straits 
to Nova Scotia : therefore, upon the breaking 
up of the great Northern bays in the 
spring of the year, the low drift ice is 
carried towards the south with great velo- 
city, where it eventually disappears, in 

consequence 



30 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

consequence of being exposed to the heat 
of the sun. 



It is thus, in its progress from north to 
south, that the ice occasionally enters and 
blocks up the di£Ferent bays and harbours 
along the coasts of Labrador and Newfound- 
land : but the inconvenience thereby caused 
to mariners is of a temporary nature ; as 
the floating mass, being easily affected by 
the slightest change of wind, frequently 
disappears in the course of a few hours, 
leaving the sea open and navigable as 
before. 

We were rather surprised to find that 
the fishermen at Broyle Bay demand 
almost as high a price for their salted cod 
as the same commodity generally obtains 
in England, This was quite a disappoint- 
ment to us, who had imagined that fish 
in N ezifioundland must be, comparatively, as 

cheap 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 31 

cheap as coals at Neiocastle: but we 
afterwards learned that the merchants of 
St, Johns would gladly purchase salted cod 
at thirty-two shillings per quintal from the 
out-harbour fishermen, for which they 
could obtain forty or forty- six shillings, 
either in Spain or Portugal, But it. must not 
be understood, from this, that the thirty- 
two shillings per quintal is actually paid by 
the merchants of St. Johns to the out^ 
harbour settlers: the Jlsh is merely valued at 
that price, and provisions to the amount 
are given in exchange. 

Having completed our stock of water 
and fuel, we sailed from Broyle Bay ; in 
order, if possible, to get into St. Jolms 
harbour. We made two or three ineffectual 
attempts, and experienced much thumping 
among the drift ice ; but at length succeeded, 
about the loth of June, in entering the 
narrow mouth of this capacious port. With 

some 



32 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

some labour and difficulty, our ship was 
warped up into a proper situation, nearly- 
opposite to the town ; where we moored 
her in safety. 




ttsh Flake,' 3ind Salting House; as they are seen in all ths Ports o? Ketcfoundland. 



CHAP. 11. 



ST. JOHN'S, CxlPITAL OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Discovery o/" Newfoundland — Taken possession of hy the 
English — Province of Avalon settled — Entirely ceded 
to Great Britain — Entrance to St. John's Harbour — 
Fortifications — Naval Arsenal — Fish Stages — Toivn of 
St. John's — Government — Sir Richard Keats — Judi- 
cature— Population — State of Society — Climate. 

1 HE discovery of Newfoundland has, by 
some authors *, been ascribed to John Cabot, 

a Vene- 

* CamplelVs ''Naval History of Grerd Britain,'' vol.1. 
p. 244. RaynaVs '' History of the East and TVest Indies" 
vol.Vn. p. 191. Land. 1783. 

D 



34 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

a Venetian navigator; and by others*, to 
Sebastian Cabot, his son, who v^as born at 
Bristol. In a Work of this kind, it is not 
necessary to enter into a long discussion of 
their separate pretensions, particularly as 
the matter has already been handled by able 
writers t, to whom the curious Reader may 
be referred for more particular information. 
It can, however, be stated with certainty, 
that this island was first seen in the year 
14Q7, or I4g8, by an English squadron, 
fitted out by Henry the Seventh. In the 
reign of his successor, Henry the Eighth, 
the cod'Jish first became an article of com- 
merce ; and some small vessels sent from 
England, returned with a cargo of salt and 
dried c£?c/t. From this time forward, the 

Banks 

* Humes ''History of England;' vol. III. Chap. XXVI. 
p. 406. 

f EUis's^^Yoy2igQioHudsonsBay"^^A — 6, Camphells 
«' Naval History of Great Britain;' vol. I. pp. 287 — 289. 

J Buy rial's " History of the East and West Indies, vol. VII. 
p. 192. Book XVII. Lond.liSS, 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 35 

Banks of Newfoundland were annually 
tisited by numbers of ships, from Spain, 
France, Italy, Portugal, and England. The 
fine harbours along the coast became the 
property of those who first entered them in 
the spring of the year, which was the 
cause of much mischief and confusion. 
The emulation and rivalship of the original 
fishermen were so great, that they contrived 
every possible means to retard and to injure 
their competitors, by breaking down the 
stages, and scattering the materials of them 
upon the waves §. To replace the damage 
sustained upon these occasions, the waste of 
young trees, and the number destroyed by 
stripping off the rind, was almost incredible; 
and it was thought necessary to put a stop 
to such ravages in future. Accordingly, in 
the year 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert sailed 

from 



^ Captain tVJiithourne's " Discourse and Discovery of 
Newfoundland.'' p. 23, 

D 2 



36 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

from Plymouth with a small squadron, and, 
after a tedious voyage, arrived at St. John's 
in Neivfoundland. There, in the presence 
of all his captains and officers, and in the 
name of Elizabeth, Queen of Great Britain, 
he took possession of two hundred leagues 
of territory, extending in every direction 
from St, Johns, A turf and a 7^od were 
presented to him, in token of his right, 
as the Governor appointed by her Majesty's 
patent*, to rule over the newly-acquired 
country. Immediately after this event. 
Sir Humphrey framed three laws for the 
observance of the fishermen. By the first, 
the form of religion w^as established ac- 
cording to the Liturgy of the Church of 
England : Secondly, it was made high- 
treason to plot against her Majesty s 

Govern- 

* The form of the Patent granted by Queen Elizabeth to 
Sir Humphrey Gilbert may be seen in Harris's " Collection 
of Voyages and Travels," vol. I. — from whence, also, most 
of the observations respecting the Expedition of Sir Hum- 
pkrey have been selected by the author. 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR, .37 

Government : and, Thirdly, it was ordained, 
that if any person should utter words of 
dishonour against her Majesty, he should 
suffer the loss of his ears ; or if the 
offender were a master of any vessel, his 
goods should become confiscate to the 
Crown. A pillar of wood was erected 
upon the shore, with the arms of England 
engraved thereon ; and the land by the sea- 
side was parcelled out into separate lots 
by Sir Humphrey \ , the proprietors gladly 
consenting to pay an annual tribute to the 
Governor for the same ; by which means 
they hoped to secure their stages and fish- 
flakes against the periodical ravages of 

their countrymen. 

This 

f In the French edition of RaynaVs ^' Histoire Philoso- 
phiquc,'' this celebrated Navigator is styled the Chevalier 
Humshree: and Justamond, in his translation of that Work, 
has rendered this word Humshree, by Hampshire. Thus, the 
glory of having first secured the sovereignty o^ Newfoundland 
to the British nation is likely to be taken from a patriotic 
knight who expended his whole fortune in the undertaking ; 
and given to a personage whose name is miknown in the 
annals of England. 



38 VOYAGE TO NEWi'OUNDLAND 

This new regulation had a very bene- 
ficial effect on the Newfoundland trade : 
for we find in Whithournes account*, 
that in the year l6l5 there were 250 
English vessels employed upon the coasts 
of that island ; and that, according to the 
usual manner of manning ships in those 
days, not less than 5000 seamen were en- 
gaged therein. Still, the English fisheries 
were eclipsed by those of foreign nations, 
who annually sent 4oo sail thither, to 
obtain cod-fish and oz7f; and this induced 
many people in England to undertake 
the colonization of the country. Sir George 
Calvert, Secretary to King James the First, 
settled the province of AvalonX, which 
was the name given to a sort of peninsula 
in Newfoundland formed by the deep bays 
of Trinity and Trepassy ; and, from thence- 
forward, 

* JVhithournes *' Discourse and Discovery of Newfound- 
land;' p. 12. 
t Ibid. p. 11. 
± Ibid. pp. 78, 79. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 39 

forward, the whole eastern coast of the 
island became gradually occupied by the 
Ewg&A fishermen. ''Those/' says Raynal^y 
'' who were concerned in the fishery, 
" being forced, both from the nature of 
'' their employment and that of the soil, 
*' to live at a distance from each other, 
'' opened paths of communication through 
'' the woods. Their general rendezvous 
'' was at St, Johns, where, in an excellent 
'' harbour, formed between two mountains 
" at a very small distance from each other, 
'' they met with privateers from the mother- 
'' country, who supplied them with every 
'' necessary article, in exchange for the 
'' produce of their fishery." 

Other nations were not insensible of the 
benefits which the English derived from 
their permanent settlements in Newfound- 
land, 

§ RaynaVs " History of the East and West Indies" vol. VII. 
pp. 192, 193. Book XVII. Lond. 1783. 



40 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

land. The French planted colonies on the 
north and south sides of the island, and built 
the town of Placentia, The share possessed 
by this people in the fisheries was a natural 
source of uneasiness to a nation that has 
always been extremely jealous of any 
encroachments on her maritime power or 
commerce. Accordingly, in the Treaty of 
Utrecht^ the entire possession of Newfound- 
land was demanded by Great Britain : and 
France being glad to procure a peace upon 
almost any terms, consented to this sacrifice, 
and merely reserved to her subjects the 
privilege of drying their /^A upon the shores 
of that island*. 

By subsequent treaties, the French have 
been restricted to the small islands of 
St, Pierre and Miquelon: and as they are 
not suffered to erect any fortifications on 
them, iheiT fishery is immediately stopped, 

whenever 

* Smollett's '< Complete Hist, of England;' vol. X. p. 12i. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 41 

whenever a war is declared between thj& 
two nations. The English, French, and 
Americans are the only people who have at 
present the. right of Jishin^ on the Banks of 
Newfoundland. 

Having thus given a concise sketch of 
the history of this country, we will now 
return to a description of its Capital. 

The entrance to St, John's Harbour forms 
a long and extremely narrow strait, but 
not very difficult of access. There are 
about twelve fathoms' water in the middle 
of the channel, with tolerable good anchor- 
age ground. The most lofty perpendicular 
precipices rise, to an amazing height, upon 
the north side; and the southern shore only 
appears less striking in its attitude, from 
a comparison with the opposite rocks. 
There is a light shewn every night on the 
left side of the entrance; where there are 

also 



42 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

also a small battery and a signal-post. 
Other batteries of greater strength appear 
towering above the rocky eminences to- 
wards the north. At about two-thirds of 
the distance between the entrance, and 
what may properly be termed the harbour 
itself, there lies a dangerous shelf, called 
the Cliciin Rock', so named from a chain 
which extends across the strait at that 
place, to prevent the admission of any hos- 
tile fleet. Mariners, on entering this place, 
ought to beware of approaching too near 
the rocks beneath the light-house point. 
At the time we sailed by them, the 
masts of a large ship were still visible 
above the water, that liad a short time 
before been forced by the swell upon those 
rocks, where she immediately foundered. 
We were afterwards concerned to hear, 
that the unfortunate vessel in question was 
one of the ships that had sailed from Cork 
in our convoy, about six weeks before. 

In 




Q 



z^ 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOS^. 43 

In addition to the fortifications already 
noticed, there are several other strong for- 
tresses upon the heights around the town, 
so as to render this place perfectly secure 
against any sudden attack. Fort Tozs^nshend 
is situate immediately over the town^ and 
is the usual I'esidence of the Governor. 
Forts Amherst and William are more to- 
wards the north ; and there is also a small 
battery perched on the top of a single pyra- 
midal mount, which is called the Crow's Nest. 

At the upper part of the harbour, and 
upon the eastern side of it, there is a small 
place styled the King's Dock-yard, although 
it can scarcely be said to deserve this title. 
At the time we were there, the Admiral 
was very intent upon enlarging and im- 
proving its condition. It may not be amiss 
to add one reflection on the obvious policy 
of rendering St. Johns a considerable naval 
depot; for notwithstanding that we possess 

so 



44 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

SO fine an arsenal as Halifax upon the 
coast of America, yet Newfoundland, as an 
island, is not so open to the attacks of an 
enemy ; and it would be an excellent resort 
for our cruizers during the summer months, 
should we, by any mischance, be deprived 
of the former valuable acquisition. In 
considering this point, Bermuda has not 
been forgotten ; but the dangers mani- 
fest in the approach to that island will ever 
render its utility, as a naval depot, of pre- 
carious advantage to our fleets. 

The harbour oi, St, John 8 is most exposed 
to heavy gales from the north-it) est; as the 
■wind from that point rushes with extreme 
violence through a valley to the left of the 
town. 

On first entering the bays and ports of 
Newfoundland, the attention of a stranger 
is mostly attracted by the remarkable 

appearance 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 45 

appearance exhibited by the innumerable 
stages erected along the sea-side for the 
salting and drying of cod. The shores 
around the harbour of St, John's are entirely 
covered with them, and their construc- 
tion is particularly simple. Numerous 
supporters, exactly resembling Kentish 
hop-poles, are first fixed in the ground : 
over these is placed a horizontal plat- 
form of similar poles; and the whole is 
finally overspread with a covering of dry 
fern. This sort of structure is called, by 
the fishermen, a Fish Flake : but there are 
other stages, erected in a similar manner, 
although standing partly in the water, with 
a hut at their extremity, for the reception 
and salting of the cod, previous to its final 
removal to the Flakes, for the purpose of 
being dried in the sun. 

The Capital of Neivfoundland consists 
of one very narrow street, extending 

entirely 



46 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

entirelj along one side of the port. The 
houses are principally built of wood; and 
there are very few handsome or even good- 
looking edifices in the place. This street 
stands upon very irregular ground, and is 
not paved ; therefore, in wet weather, it is 
rendered almost impassable, by mud and 
filth. There are a great number of small 
public-houses, but scarcely one tolerable 
inn : the London Tavern, however, has a 
good billiard-room attached to it. Shops 
of all descriptions are very numerous ; but 
most commodities are extravagantly dear, 
particularly meat, poultry, and vegetables, 
as the town receives all its supplies of those 
articles from Nova Scotia, The number 
of wharfs for lading ships is remarkable : 
almost every petty merchant, indeed, pos- 
sesses one of his own : and there is, besides 
these, a fine broad quay, called the Govern- 
ment Wharf, which is open for the accom- 
modation of the public. 

The 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 47 

The Island of Newfoundland is governed 
by a Vice-admiral of the British Navy, 
whose jurisdiction extends also over the 
coast of Labrador, from Cape Charles to 
Mount Joli, together with the small islands 
of St, Pierre and Miquelon on the south, 
and Anticosti in the mouth of the River St. 
Lawrence, The Governor holds his situa- 
tion for three years; and he is, during this 
time, Commander-in-chief of the naval force 
employed within the limits of his govern- 
ment. He usually resides in a fortress 
above the town of St. Johns^ and returns 
to England for the winter months. During 
his absence, the chief power of the island is 
vested in the hands of the Military Com- 
mandant, who is styled the Lieutenant- 
Governor of Newfoundlajid, In the event of 
the decease of this last personage, the 
government devolves on the Chief Justice 
of St, Johiis, 



We 



48 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

We were witnesses of the ceremony of 
installing and swearing in Vice- Admiral Sir 
Richard Goodwin Keats, G.C.B. as Govern 
nor : and never was the protection of this 
valuable colony confided, during a critical 
period, to more indefatigable or able 
hands. The bravery, abilities, and brilliant 
achievements of Sir Richard Keats are 
known throughout Europe; but his patient 
assiduity, excellent precautions, and unre- 
mitting vigilance, can only be manifest to 
those who were witnesses of the able dispo-^ 
sition of his naval force, whereby the 
shores of Newfoundland might be navigated 
in security during the most violent period 
of the late contest with America"^. 

The 

* When Captain of the Superb^ 74, under the command of 
Admiral Sir James Saumarez, in the Straits of Gibraltar, Sir 
Richard Keats ran his ship alongside two Spanish three- 
deckers, and engaged them both at the same time : theri 
making sail, he passed out from between them, unnoticed; 
and, overtaking another of their fleet, whose force was more 
proportionate to that of the Superb, he soon compelled her to 

a sur- 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 49 

The judicature of this island is confided 
to 3. Chief Justice, residing in St. John s: and 
there are also Magistrates in the principal 
places on the coast of Newfoundland and 
Labrador, who are empowered to take cog- 
nizance of 7nurder, robberies, and frauds ; 
but it has been judiciously ordained, that 
they should not interfere in any disputes 
relative to t\\Q fisheries . For the adjustment 
of the latter cases, an officer of the Navy is 
annually appointed to hold a Surrogate 
Court in the out-harbours. 

It would be very difficult to form the 
least calculation respecting the population 
oi St. Johns; as no computation, however 

accurate, 

a surrender. The two three-deckers, not perceiving his 
escape, continued, in the darkness of the night, to engage 
each other; until they both caught fire, and were consumed 
together : thus giving to Captain Keats the honour of having, 
by a niasterly manoeuvre, occasioned the destruction of two 
first-rate line-of-battle ships belonging to the enemy; and 
capturing another of equal force, with a comparatively trifling 
loss on his own part. 

E 



50 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

accurate, can be considered as correct 
beyond the instant of time in which it is 
made. During the height of the fishery, it 
appears to be overflowing with inhabitants ; 
but most of the people employed therein 
return to Europe in the autumn. There 
is not a work of any kind that we can refer 
to respecting Newfoundlayid, if we except 
those imperfect sketches given of it in 
the various publications called Gazetteers, 
Upon such works there can be little 
dependence placed, particularly when 
they profess to describe countries not 
generally known. Of this fact, we have 
an instance before us ; when, in speak- 
ing of Newfoundlands, we find it stated*, 
'' that there are about 500 English families, 
^^ who continue there all the year, besides 
*' the garrisons of St, John s, Flacentia, and 
''other forts. In the fishing season, it is 

'' resorted 

* The '' General GaxetteeTf' by R. Brookes, M.D. London, 
1815. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 51 

^^ resorted to by at least 1 0,000 people, on 
'' account of the Jishing banks." We may 
judge of the degree of accuracy with 
which this calculation was made, by refe- 
rence to another passage in the same 
description : '^ It seems to have no inhabi- 
'^ tants of its own ; hut in the surnmer-time 
'^ is visited by the Esquimaux Indians.'^ 
It may appear strange, that such lamentable 
ignorance should exist respecting one of 
our most valuable possessions in North 
America: it will appear hereafter, that 
Newfoundland has always been inhabited 
by a nation peculiar to itself; and that the 
Esquimaux are not less strangers upon the 
coasts than the Chichasaivs or Catabees in 
Xhe ?>ivetis oi London ! 

The state of society in St. Johns is such 

as might be expected, in a place where the 

majority of the principal inhabitants have 

risen from the lowest fishermen. The 

E 2 vulgar 



52 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

vulgar arrogance of these upstarts is some- 
times both ludicrous and offensive. Lite- 
rature and polished manners are here un- 
known; and a stranger must not be sur- 
prised to observe a constant violation of the 
most ordinary rules of speech. 

The lower classes are generally composed 
of turbulent Irishmen, whose unwearied 
industry during tht fishing season in sum- 
mer is forcibly contrasted with their un- 
bounded licentiousness in winter. Indeed, 
all ranks of society appear to consider 
debauchery as the only antidote to the 
tcediwn intce which prevails between the 
month of December and the recommence- 
ment of \hQ fishery in the May follow^ing. 

Having spoken of the industry and licen- 
tiousness of the Irish fishermen, it will 
be no more than justice to m^ention an 
instance of honesty in one of their class. 

The 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 53 

The author had been making a purchase of 
some trifling article, upon one of the quays 
in Sf, Johns; when, in consequence of 
being much hurried, he was so negligent 
as to leave his purse and gloves upon a 
log of timber near the place. The town- 
crier was authorized to offer an adequate 
reward for the recovery of the property ; 
and in less than half an hour afterwards, 
the purse and gloves were restored to the 
owner, by a tattered wretch, as destitute in 
his appearance as the meanest pauper. 
The purse contained about ten pounds 
sterling, in the current notes of the island. 

The trading commodities of Newfound- 
land are so well known, that it will only 
be requisite to say, the exports consist 
offish, oil, and a very few furs: the Imports 
^vt, provisions, clothing, salt, fshing- gear, and 
some India goods. 



54 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

The scenery around the Capital, Hke all the 
other parts of the island, is wild and deso- 
late : but in many places, the mountains, 
lakes, woods, and plains, present rather a 
pleasing landscape. The inhabitants of 
St, Johns have extended their country- 
houses only a few miles into the interior. 

The rigour of the winters in Newfound- 
land, and indeed throughout the whole 
continent of Noi'th America, has excited 
the curiosity and inquiries of many philo- 
sophical writers. Although lying on the 
same parallel of latitude with the most fer- 
tile parts of France, yet such is the severity 
of the climate, that it is not an unusual 
circumstance, in St. Johns, to find, at the 
breakfast-table, the tea- cup frozen to the 
saucer, although filled with boiling water 
at the moment!* Robertson says, that 

'' almost 

* To shew how Httle dependence can be placed upon the 
descriptions given of Newfoundland by those who first visited 

the 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 55 

^^. almost all the birds fly, during that sea- 
'^ son, from a climate where they could not 
'' live:" but, in this point at least, he is mis- 
taken ; because most of the northern parts 
of North America abound with feathered 
tribes much more during the winter than 
in the summer, particularly with par- 
tridges, wild diichs^ geese, plovers, and 
moor-fowl '\, 

In 



the country, it will only be necessary to mention, that, in 
their eagerness to recommend the coloiii%ation of the island, 
they have actually represented the climate as being equally 
mild and temperate with that of Great Britain. — See IVhit- 
lourne's Discourse and Discovery o'l Xewfoundlajid^ p. 1. 

J As a proof of this, it is only necessary to quote the fol- 
lowing passages, from the account of countries situate eight 
degrees farther to the North than Xewfoundland. " They use, 
" at the Factories, no other method of killing the partridges, 
'• than shooting them : and in this they are very successful, for 
'' they are there in very great plenty ; insomuch, that some 
" men may be able to shoot sixty or eighty in a day's time, 
" which makes a good article in the magazine-list of winter 
'^ provision.'' — £//«'s Voyage to Hudson s Bay, p. 160. 

" There are great plenty ot partridges in the winter time." 
Letters from a Gentleman on hoard His Majesty's S/iip 
Furnace, in Churchill River j North America. 



56 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

In attempting to account for the rigour so 
remarkably characteristic of the cUmate of 
North America, philosophers, in their in- 
quiry, have evidently fallen short of the 
original cause. They all concur in the fact, 
that the extreme severity of winter is occa- 
sioned by the prevalence of the narih-west 
wind during; that season of the year : but to 
explain the true source of such an extraor- 
dinary diminution of temperature, it is in- 
cumbent upon them to point out the causes 
of this prevaihng wind. 

Although the climate of North America 
be undoubtedly rigorous, yet it is not either 
unhealthy or unpleasant. The European 
settlers in Hudson s Bay and in Newfound- 
land prefer the serene intense cold of their 
dry winters, to the damp and foggy 
^lmos^\i^vQ oi Great Britain ; and maintain, 
that, vvith the thermometer of Fahrenheit 
at sixty degrees below the freezing 

point, 



AXD THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 57 

point*, they have invariably experienced an 
exhilarating and joyous sensation, unknown 
in other parts of the globe. Captain Whit- 
bourne, speaking of Newfoundland, says f , 
that '' in the year l6l5, of the many thou- 
^' sands of English, French, Portugals, and 
^' others, that were then upon that coast 
*^ (amongst whom I sailed to and fro more 
'' than 150 leagues), I neither saw nor 
" heard, in all that trauell, of anyman or boy, 
'' of either of these nations, that died there 
'' during the whole voyage ; neither was 
" there so much as any one of them sicke." 
If any part of Whitboume's account be 
entitled to im.phcit credit, perhaps we might 
bestow it upon the foregoing statement ; as 
no fact is more certain than that of the 
healthiness of a North- American climate. 

Having 

* See the abstract of a Meteorological Journal published 
in the Author's " Narrative of an Expedition to Hudson s 
Bay." Appendix. 

f W hitlourne s Discourse and Discovery of Newfoundland, 
p. 2. 



58 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Having discussed a few subjects worthy 
of observation respecting the Capital* of 
Newfoundland, we may now proceed with 
the narrative of the voyage. 



* Since the Rosamond was in Newfoundland, the town of 
St. Johns has been three times nearly destroyed by fire ! M 
the first instance, a hundred dwelHng-houses were con- 
sumed ; but the damage was speedily repaired, and the 
sufi'erers relieved by the assistance of a munificent donation 
from His Royal Highness the Prince Regent. A suspicion 
having been excited that the two subsequent conflagrations 
were not the effect of accident, the Grand Jury minutely 
inquired into the causes of those dreadful events ; but were 
unanimously of opinion, that there was no foundation for 
such a supposition. At all events, although these successive 
fires ntay occasion much loss to individuals, yet, if there be 
the least taste displayed in rebuilding, the Capital of New^ 
foundland cannot fail to be greatly improved by the cata- 
strophe. 




Wio\Tam cf ihe Micmac Indians, in St, Gt 



hay, ycicjtundland. 



CHAP. III. 



FROM ST. JOHNS, TO ST. GEORGE'S BAY. 

Departure from St. John's — Cape Fine — Placentia — St. 
Pierre and Miquelon — Fogs — Cape Breton — Cape Ray 
— Irish Fisherman — Anchor at St. George's Bay — 
Trout — Dialosue with an Indian — Main River — Indian 
Village — Micmacs — Europeans — Entire Population qf 
St. George's Bay — Boat- tax — Sail from St. George's 
Bay. 

J-T was about the 1 4 th of June that we 
at length sailed from St. Johns, Our 
Captain had received directions to proceed 

to 



60 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

to the Straits of Belle- u It. in order to pro- 
tect the fisheries estabUshed on the southern 
Coast of Labrador, 

When quitting the harbour, we observed 
an immense mountain of ice, lying aground, 
in forty fathoms' vi^ater, oft' the entrance. 

During the remainder of this day, we 
ran towards the south, with a gentle breeze 
from the north-west : and having passed 
Petty Harbour, Bay of Bulls, IVitless and 
Momables Bays, we reached Cape Broyle 
at sun-set. Tlie summit of this majestic 
headland was now covered with snow, and 
many small vessels were busily employed 
fishing along its base. 

At daylight, on June the 15th, we 
doubled the promontory of Cape Race; hut 
as the wind blew in very Hght airs from 
the north'Zvest, we had not, at night-fall, 

reached 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 61 

reached farther than Cape Pine, a low 
point of land covered with trees*. It was 
here that the American privateers were 
accustomed to lie in wait, to intercept the 
English merchant ships bound for different 
ports in the River St. Lawrence ; until the 
vigilance of Admiral Sir Richard Keats 
succeeded in clearing the coast of them. 
The inlet between Cape Race and Cape 
Pine is called Trepassy Bay, and there is 
a small fishing town situate near its head, 

June the l6th. — In the forenoon, we 
crossed the mouth of a deep gulf, called 
Placentia Bay. When the French had 
possession of the southern parts of New- 
foiindlandj they built a town upon the 
shores of this bay, and made Placentia the 

Capital 

* While the author was correcting these pages for the 
press, an account appeared, in most of the Daily Papers, of a 
very melancholy shipwreck upon Cape Pine : and, as it may 
tend to shew the horrors ever attendant on a Newfoundland 
shipwreck, it has been inserted in the Appendix to this volume. 



62 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Capital of their territory. It is still a con- 
siderable place, and ranks next to St, Johns 
in extent and population. 

Towards night- fall, we were off Cape 
Chapemi- Rouge, the western extremity of 
Placentia Bay ; and we could perceive the 
islands of St. Pierre and Miguelon, at a 
short distance towards the west, 

June the 17th. — We were becalmed the 
whole day off the islands of St, Pierre and 
Miquelon ; concerning which so much has 
been said, in the different Treaties between 
Great Britain and France. These islands are 
small and barren ; and are divided by a 
strait, that is navigable only for small 
vessels. 

There is one peculiarity attending the 

fogs of 'Newfoundland, unnoticed in any 

account of the country: although it be 

very 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 63 

very important that mariners navigating 
this coast should be apprised of the cir- 
cumstance. It often occurs, that the 
v^hole of the ocean around Newfoundland 
is enveloped in so dense a fog, that it is 
apparently impossible for a ship to proceed 
on her course, without incurring, the most 
imminent danger of shipwreck : but, at the 
same time, there is generally a small space, 
w^ithin a mile or two of the shore itself, 
entirely clear of the vapour, and, as it 
were, forming a zone of light around the 
coast : so that a person acquainted with 
this singular phaenomenon, will, in some 
cases, be enabled to attain his port ; while 
a stranger, on the other hand, is afraid to 
approach the island. 

June the 19th. — In the forenoon, we 
saw the high-land of Cape Breton ; and 
towards evening, vv^e doubled Cape Ray^ 
the south-west extremity of Newfoundland ; 

a lofty 



64 



VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 



a lofty promontory, entirely destitute of 
vegetation. 

June the 22d. — We were off the mouth 
of a deep gulf, called St, George s Bay, 
situate upon the ivestern coast of Newfound- 
land, in nearly the same parallel of latitude 
as St. Johns, the Capital of the island. 
There being but little wind, w^e sent a 
boat in shore, to obtain a few fish. In 
about an hour, the boat returned, completely 
laden with the finest cod. The people, 
who were sent on this service, reported, 
that at the first, having gone too near the 
shore, they found the bottom covered 
with weeds, and could not succeed in 
catching a single fish ; but rowing a little 
farther out, into ten fathoms' water, they 
foand rocky ground ; and here the cod were 
so plentiful, and voracious, that in twenty 
minutes they obtained a sufficient quantity 
to supply the whole of our sbip's company. 

In 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 65 

June the 23d. — In the morning, we 
again stood into the Bay of St, George ; but 
had scarcely entered the gulf, when we per- 
ceived some one in a small canoe paddling 
towards us. For some time, we were eagerly 
endeavouring, by the assistance of our 
telescopes, to ascertain what sort of stranger 
the canoe contained. The Reader may 
then conceive our surprise, when, upon 
coming alongside, he inquired if we plaised 
to buy any salmon. His country could no 
longer be a secret to us ; and presently the 
genuine Paddy stood confessed, although 
disguised by an olive complexion, a dark 
red beard and red mustachios, deer-skin 
jacket and breeches, red cloth greaves on 
his legs, embroidered red sandals, and a 
head covered with such a profusion of 
hair that it resembled the fur cap of a 
Russian. Entering into conversation with 
him, we understood that he had been for 
many years an inhabitant of St. Georges 

F Bay, 



66 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Bay, and that he procured a livelihood 
by catching and curing salmon. 

Towards evening, v^e anchored off a 
small village, called Sandy Point, at the 
bottom of St, Georges Bay. On every 
side appeared the most lofty mountains, 
covered with dark forests of the spruce, 
pine, and larch trees. Immediately oppo- 
site to the village of Sandy Point, stood 
a village of about twenty Indian wig- 
wams, 

Mr. Massery, the constable and chief 
man of this place, came on board, with 
information, that the whole of the settlers 
in St, George s Bay had for two days been 
kept in a state of the greatest alarm, in con- 
sequence of their having mistaken our 
ship for an American cruizer. Precautions 
had been taken against a surprise; and 
the whole of the Indians on the opposite 

side 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. Of 

side of the bay were actually under arms, 
to oppose our landing. However, we 
soon succeeded in quieting their fears : 
and upon hoisting our Union' Jach at the 
main-top-gallant-mast head, we received 
a visit from the Chief of the Micmac 
Indians, of whom it will be necessary to 
speak more fully hereafter*. 

St. George's Harbour lies at the upper' 
part of the bay which bears the same 
name: it is a very safe and commodious 
anchorage; but is rather exposed to the 
violence of the south-west winds, occasioned 
by the lofty mountains in that direction. 

In 



* On our arrival in St. George s Bay, we received intelli- 
gence that the Chesapeake, American frigate, had been 
captured, in the most gallant manner, and in the short space of 
eleven minutes, by the Shannon, British frigate, commanded 
by Captain (now Sir Philip) Broke. Such an event, if proof 
were wanted, must have manifested, to the most incredulous 
mind, that our naval superiority still continues unshaken 
and unimpaired. 

F2 



6S VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

In sailing into this port, a seaman will find 
the follov^ing observations of service. 

The low spit of land called Sandy or 
H&rboia^ Point is so steep underwater, that 
it may be safely rounded at the distance of 
half a cable's length, by any ship not dra vising 
more than twenty-two feet. The best 
anchorage is between Sandy Point and the 
main land, with from nine to ten fathoms 
water : the point bearing about n. by w. 
or N. N. w. Care ought to be taken to moor 
with an open hause to the soufh-tvcst. The 
tides flow about ten o'clock at the full and 
change of the moon, and the rise and fall 
is about seven feet. 

June the twenty-fourth. — At the first 
dawn of day, the author, and a partj 
of officers, proceeded upon a fishing excur- 
sion, to a small river at a short distance up 
the bay. Upon our first arrival at the 

place. 



AKD THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 69 

place, we found the musquitos exceedingly 
tormenting; but our spirits revived when 
we perceived trout leaping in all direc- 
tions from the surface of the water. 
About 8 A. M. a gentle breeze sprung up, 
and in an instant the miisquitos disap- 
peared. We remained at our sport until 
the afternoon; when we returned on 
board, with twenty-five dozen of large 
trout, taken in the course of six hours' 
fishing. 

June the twenty-fifth. — The Purser of the 
ship, and the author, again repaired to the 
river for trout. We had proceeded but a 
short distance up the stream, and were 
busily occupied with our sport, when a 
musket was discharged in the woods be- 
hind us ; and, after uttering a loud hallmy 
an Indian burst through the thicket, wnth a 
gun in his hand. At first we did not much 
relish his appearance, and accordingly 

caught 



70 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

caught up our fowling-pieces : but it was 
impossible to suspect him long; for, with 
a smile upon his countenance, he advanced 
gently forward; taking off his cap with 
one hand, whilst with the other he laid 
down his musket upon the trunk of a 
fallen tree. We offered him rz/m, which, to 
our utter astonishment, he refused ; but he 
accepted of some biscuit and boiled pork. 
The following conversation then ensued 
between us. We first inquired, where he 
was going, and at what he had fired. 
*^ Me go get salmon gut, for bait, for catchee 
^^ cod. Me fire for play, at litteel bird.'' 
Observing the word Tower marked on the 
lock of his musket, we said, '' This is an 
*^ English gun." '' May be. Me no get um 
^^ oflngeles; me get um of Scot chee ship : me 
^^ giveede Captain one carabou {deer) forum.'' 
— ^^ Do you go to-morrow to catch cod?" 
''' Ees : me go to-morroiu catchee cod: 
^' next day, catchee cod: next day come 

'' seven 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 71 

^^ seven day (Sunday); me no catchee cod ; 
^' me tahee hook^, hoh up God." We asked 
if the savage Red Indians, inhabiting the 
interior of the country, also looked up to 
God: when, with a sneer of the most 
ineffable contempt, he replied, '' No; no 
*' lookee up God : killee all men dat dem see, 
^\ Red Indian no good,''— Do you under- 
'' stand the talk of the Red Indians f' 
^* Ohy no; me no talkee likee dem: dem 
" talkee all same dog, ' Bow, wow, woivV " 
This last speech was pronounced with a 
peculiar degree of acrimony: at the same 
time, he appeared so much offended at our 
last question, that we did not think it pru- 
dent to renew the dialogue. This Indian 
seemed highly diverted at seeing us catch 
the largest trout with such small rods, 

hooks^ 



* None of the Indians in Si. Georges Bay are able to 
read ; but they have been taught almost to adore the Bihle^ 
by some French Missionary. 



72 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

hooks, and lines ; and he left us a short 
time afterwards, in great good humour. 

In the evening of this day, some of our 
Officers went to a sort of rustic ball, given 
by the fishermen's daughters in a hut at 
Sandy Point: and on their return, they 
gave a comic description of their different 
partners, all of w^hom, it appeared, had 
been dressed in the most burlesque finery 
for the occasion, 

June the twenty-sixth, at six in the 
morning, Mr. Manley, the purser, with the 
author, again left the ship, and proceeded 
in a small boat, or rather canoe, up the 
Main River, which empties itself into the 
head of St. George s Bay. We went thi- 
ther to treat for the purchase of a young 
heifer which the owner of the canoe had 
for sde, 

There 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 73 

There is a bar of sand extending quite 
across the mouth of the Maiji River, and 
the sea generally breaks over it in a tre- 
mendous manner. Our sensations were 
not of the most pleasing kind, on the pro- 
spect of passing through this surf in so 
small a boat : but upon questioning our 
conductor as to the probabiUty of danger, 
he spoke of the boat's oversetting as a 
circumstance very likely to happen ; but 
then, he added, with the utmost com- 
placency, that ' his boat was such a lively 
little thing, we could easily hang on the 
i)ottom of her, until the waves should toss 
us upon the strand*. We, however, 
succeeded in passing over the bar, without 
having occasion to trust to this dangerous 
expedient. 

The Main River is a broad and tolerably 

deep 

* We were afterwards informed that such occurrences 
are not at all unusual, in passmg the bar of the Main River. 



74 TOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

deep stream: its banks are composed of 
loose earth, covered with various lichens, 
and surmounted with noble forests of 
spruce s larch, fir, and birch trees. 

Having agreed to purchase the heifer at 
the rate of one shilling per pound, we 
walked from the Maiji River, round the 
head of the bay, to the trout stream before 
mentioned, where we found an old man 
busily employed in catching salmon. 
Thence we pursued our walk over a stony 
beach, until we reached the Indian zvig- 
warns, situate on the northern shore of the 
bay. The village appeared to be entirely 
deserted by the men; and the women and 
children, being naturally shy of strangers, 
fled to the woods at our approach. 

The wigiuams, or habitations of the 
Micmac Indians, are constructed of birch" 

- tree 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 75 

tree bark in a conical shape ^; and at the 
-top there is an aperture for the smoke to 
escape through. They make their fires in 
the center of the hut; and suspend deers- 
flesh over it, to dry for the winter consump- 
tion. The same practice obtains amongst 
iheLaplanders and most of the nomade tribes 
oi North America^, We also perceived great 
quantities of stinking fish and bones lying 
scattered about their luigwams; together 
with canoes, and large fish- stages. 

After strolling for some time about the 
village, we found two young male hidians 
stretched at their full length before a fire J, 
who very civilly offered to row us on board 

the 

* See the Vignette to this Chapter. 

•\ See the representation of a Tent of Cree Ijidians, in the 
Author's ' Narrative of a Voyage to Hudson s Bay.' 

X " The Indian men are remarkable for their idleness, 
*' upon which they seem to value themselves; saying, that to 
"labour would be degrading them^ and belongs only to the 
'' women.'' Extract from Major Rogers's Account of North 
America. 



76 %'^OYAGB TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

the Rosamond in one of their bark canoes. 
We readily accepted this proposal : and 
during our passage to the ship, we gathered 
from them the following interesting parti- 
culars relative to the first settlement of 
their tribe in St. George s Bay. 

During our war with America, between 
the years 1775 and 1782, the Micmac In- 
dians, inhabiting the island oiCape Breton 
and the parts adjacent, were amongst the 
number of our most inveterate enemies : 
but at length one of our military com- 
manders having concluded an amicable 
treaty with them, he selected one of the 
most sagacious of their Chiefs to negotiate 
a peace with a neighbouring tribe, who 
v/ere also hostile to the English cause. The 
old India?! ambassador succeeded in the 
object of his mission; and received, as his 
reward, the grant of a sterile tract of 
land in St, George s Bay, Newfoundland, 

together 



AJTD THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 77 

together with permission to transport as 
many of his countrymen thither as might be 
wilhng to accompany him in the expedi- 
tion. Accordingly, the old Sachem left his 
native land, accompanied by a strong party 
of Indian followers ; and boldly launching 
out to sea in their own crazy shallops or 
canoes, they eventually reached St, George ^ 
Bay in safety. 

Such instances of bold navigation are 
not unusual amongst the Indians of North 
Americay and particularly those of Nova 
Scotia"^, Without compass or chart, they 
are not perplexed in traversing the most 

boisterous 

* " The Indians about Nova Scotia and the Gulf of St. 
'' Lawrence have frequently passed over to the Labrador, 
*'■ which is thirty or forty leagues, without a compass, and 
** have landed at the very spot they first intended : and 
** even in dark cloudy weather they will direct their course 
" hy land with great exactness; but this they do by 
<* observing the bark and boughs of trees ; the north side, m 
*^ this country, being always mossy, and the boughs on tjhe 
'* south side the largest." Extract from Major ^ Rogers's 
Account of North America. 



7S VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLANiy 

boisterous seas or trackless deserts: ne- 
cessity has taught them to be guided by 
natural appearances: and there can be no 
doubt but that such was also the confined 
practice of European navigators, previous 
to the important discovery of the magnetic 
needle. 

The first act of the Mianacs, upon their 
arrival in Newfoundland, was to appoint the 
old Indian, who had conducted them thi- 
ther, their Chief in perpetuity; and they 
next ^^huried the sword,'' as a symbol that 
war had for ever ceased between their tribe 
and the English nation. Since this period, 
th^y have been making a gradual progress 
towards civilization: and by frequent inter- 
marriages with the European settlers at 
Sandy Pointy the race became so inter- 
mingled, that, at the time we visited them, 
the number oi pure Indians did not exceed 
fifty, exclusive of women and children. ' 

In 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 79 

In their persons, they are robust and tall; 
with amazing coarse features, very high 
cheek bones, flattened noses, wide nostrils, 
small eyes widely separated from each 
other, and thick black hair hanging per- 
pendicularly from either temple*. They 
are dressed, for the most part, in apparel 
which they procure from the Europeans at 
Sandy Point, in exchange for fishy oil, and 
furs: however, they still preserve a few 
originalities in their costume, such as deer- 
shin sandals, embroidered red caps, and red 
cloth greaves in lieu of stockings. 

The Micmacs are, in their dispositions, 
naturally good-natured, and exceedingly 
civil towards strangers ; but when intoxi- 
cated, their whole manner changes. Spiri- 
tuous liquors, of which they are exces- 
sively fond, will, in an instant, convert a 
peaceful and inoffensive Indian into a 

most 

* In fact, corresponding very accurately with the descrip- 
tions travellers have given of the people called Calmucks. 



80 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

most ferocious savage. The vv^omen and 
children are then compelled to seek refuge 
in the woods. The barbarian, not finding 
any person on whom h^ dare wreak his 
brutal vengeance, will attack his own 
v^retched wigwam, break every article it 
contains, and probably complete the wreck 
by tearing the whole fabric to the ground; 
nay, even the barrel of his musket is fre- 
quently bent double, and the stock broken 
in pieces ; although he generally esteems 
his fowling-piece as more valuable and 
dearer to his heart than either his wife or 
his children. 

If this infuriate maniac be visited on the 
following morning, he will be found sitting 
upon the ground, with his family around 
him, lamenting, in bitter terms, the effects 
of his preceding debauch. Nevertheless, 
they have a wonderful facility at repairing 
the damages occasioned by their frequent 

fits 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. ^1 

fits of intoxication: the wigivam is easily 
rebuilt, the broken utensils are quickly 
mended, the musket stock is bound toge- 
ther with slips of raw hide, and the barrel 
is twisted and bent upon the knee until it is 
found to carry correctly towards its aim*. 

Murders are very uncommon amongst 
this people ; but broken heads, loss of eyes, 
and deep cuts, are frequently inflicted 
during their drunken quarrels. It is really 
astonishing, that, although they be impla- 
cable in revenging a deliberate insult, yet 

they 

* One of the Indians visiting the Rosamond when the 
officers were amusing themselves by shooting at a bottle 
suspended from the yard-arm, was requested to exhibit his 
skill as a marksman in the same way. Accordingly, he went 
to the arm-chest to select a musket for this purpose, turning 
over several before he found one to his liking. At length, 
taking up a marine's firelock, he held it to his eye, to see if 
it were perfectly straight ; then, shaking his head, he took 
the barrel out of the stock, and repeatedly bent it, in different 
directions, over his knee : afterwards, he replaced it in the 
stock ; and then, walking forward with a confident air, he 
levelled tlie piece, and, in an instant, shivered the bottle to 
atoms. 

G 



82 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

they have never been known to resent 
the provocations of an intoxicated man. 
'^ Should we blame or punish him," say 
they, '* when he does not know what he is 
'' about, or has not his reason *?" 

The Micmacs of St. George s Bay can 
hardly be said to have any kind of civil 
government. It is true, they acknowledge 
the descendant of their original leader to 
be still their Sachem or Chief: but what- 
ever power he may possess, arises more 
from the ascendancy acquired by his mild 
and conciliating manners, than from any 
respect which the Indians pay to the office 
itself. 

The grandson of the old leader held the 
situation of Chief while we were there : he 
was a very aged man, and had two or three 
fall-grown sons. The heir-apparent to the 

Sachemship 

* Extract from Major Rngers's Account of North America. 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 83 

Sac/iemship was a fine tall young man, of a 
most exemplary character; and one amongst 
the very small number of those Indians, 
who, dreading the baneful effects of intoxi- 
cation, had entirely forsworn the use of 
spirituous liquors. Our former acquaint- 
ance at the trout stream f was also one of 
those who had abjured the drinking of 
rum; and we were informed that he bore a 
high reputation for industry, honesty, and 
conjugal affection. 

The only distinction observable between 
the Chief and his subjects is in the form of 
their habitations. The Sachem resides in a 
square hut, boarded up at the sides ; while 
the other Indians dwell in the conical wig- 
wams before mentioned. The former gains 
his livelihood exactly in the same manner 
as the latter ; that is to say, by fishing in 
summer, and hunting in winter. They 

smile 

t See pages 69 and 70. 
G 2 



84 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

smile at the notion of any person being 
permitted to subsist in total idleness, upon 
the labour of his fellow- creatures. 

In some cases, the Indians we are de- 
scribing prove excellent surgeons, particu- 
larly in their treatment of cuts, ulcers, and 
bruises ; but they have not the slightest 
idea of the means necessary to be pursued 
in setting a dislocated joint. Their skill in 
medicine is likewise very trifling. The cli- 
mate produces but few diseases ; and they 
are consequently but little acquainted with 

remedies*. 

Since 

*" The following additional remarks concerning the Micmac 
Indians were communicated to the author by John Duke, 
Esq. Surgeon of the Rosamond, and nephew of the cele- 
brated Dr. Burnet, formerly Physician to the Mediterranean 
Fleet. 

" I do not remember observing any acute or even chronic 
"diseases amongst them. We were much struck at the 
" care and tenderness evinced by the younger part of the 
" community towards those who, from infirmity or age, were 
" rendered incapable of assisting themselves. I saw several 
" instances of old persons unable to walk, and deprived of 

" sight 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADgR. 85 

Since their original migration from the 
island of Cape Breton, the Micmacs have 
frequently changed their abode to different 
places within the limits of St. George s Bay. 
They had, however, resided about nine 
years in the spot where we found them. 
XJnburthened by taxes of any kind, they are 
proportionably active and industrious. An 
India?! is here animated to labour, by the 
certainty that what he earns is his own 
property, and that his superior gains do not 
render him liable to heavier impositions. 

Independent of the colony of Micmac 
Indians, there are, in St. Georges Bay, 
thirteen families of Europeans, or their de- 
scendants, W'ho have been born in this 

place. 

" sight or hearing, who appeared to be regarded by tlie 
" whole tribe as objects most worthy of their attention. 

" The first request made by their Chief to me, was for a 
*^ lancet ; and I was surprised to observe that they could use 
" this instrument, in bleeding, with some skill and adroitness. 
" Upon the whole, I am inclined to think that they enjoy, in 
*' general, excellent health," 



86 VGYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

place. Owing to a contrariety in their 
religious opinions, eleven of them are called 
English families, and the remainder are 
denominated French; the former styling 
themselves Protestants, and the latter Ca- 
tholics, We inquired into the method of 
performing the marriage ceremony, and 
interring the dead : and v^ere informed, 
that the Cn^5oe-looking being, whom we 
had met with upon first entering the place *, 
possessed a licence from St. Johns, to per- 
form the functions of a priest. '^ He was 
'^ the only person residing there," they 
said, ^' who knew how to read !" and he 
officiated at all the religious ceremonies of 
both Protestants and Catholics, 

The whole of the white population did 
not amount to more than one hundred and 
twelve persons : and estimating the Indian 
colony at ninety-seven, St, George's Bay 

may 

* See pages 65, 66, 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 87 

may be said to have contained about two 
hundred and nine souls altogether, includ- 
ing Englishy French, Indians, women, and 
children. 

Every person owning a boat mNewfound- 
land, or the Labrador, is compelled to pay 
sixpence per annum towards the support of 
Greemvich Hospital t; but the difficulty of 
collecting this simple tax is inconceivably 
great. A ship of war usually visits the 
different ports around the coast, for that 
purpose ; and there have been instances 
known of such an excursion not having 
produced more than the small sum of three 
pounds sterling, and a few cash of salted 
salmon. This singular difficulty, in the 
collection of so very triffing an imposition, 
arises solely from the great scarcity of 
specie in this country, as almost the whole 

internal 

f The Colon}^ of Micmac Indians, in St. Georges Bay, are 
not subject to this or any other tax. 



88 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

internal trade of Newfoundland is carried 
on by barter ; so that the masters of fishe- 
ries have frequently been compelled to pay 
even their simple boat-duty in the current 
commodities of the island. 

During our stay in St. Georges Bay, we 
gathered the sum of jive pounds, as a part 
of the arrears due to His Majesty. Our 
unprecedented success at this place, ia 
obtaining so considerable a portion of the 
revenue, originated in the circumstance of 
a little cash having been put in circulation 
by the officers of the Rosamond, in making 
purchases oi fish, furs, and cattle. 

During the whole oi June the twenty- 
seventh, it blew so violent a gale from the 
fiortJi-east, that we were compelled to veer 
away cable, and bring both our anchors 
a-head. Towards evening, as the wind 
did not abate, we struck our topmasts; and 

in 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 89 

in this state our ship rode through the 
night in perfect safety. 

July the \st. — We at length quitted St, 
George s Bay, to the evident regret of its 
peaceful inhabitants, with whom we had 
been on the most friendly terms since our 
first arrival in the place. 

It was not our Captain's intention to 
touch at any more ports in Newfoundland 
at present ; but to proceed immediately, in 
pursuance of the orders which he had 
received, to watch over and protect the Bri- 
tish fisheries established upon the Coast of 
Labrador, * 



90 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 



CHAP. IV. 



FROM ST. GEORGE'S BAY, IN NEWFOUNDLAND, 
TO L'ANSE-A-LOUP BAY, IN LABRADOR. 

ProJjal'le Formation of the Straits of Belle-isle — 
Expedition ofKich^vy — Narrow Escape — Green Island 
— Bradore Bay — L'Anse le Blanc — Anchor at Forteau 
— Esquimaux^ or Fishing Indians — Mountaineer or 
Hunting hidians — Forteau Bay — Europeans o/'Forteau 
— Admiral of the Fishery — Sail from Forteau — 
Anchor at L'Anse a Loup. 

1 HE Straits of Belle-isle is the name given 
to that narrow channel which separates 
the island of Newfoundland from the 
Continent of North America. They are 
about thirty leagues in length ; and, in the 
narrowest part, not more than ten miles 
wide. 

To 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 91 

To those who are curious in tracing 
the primary causes that have produced 
the present configuration of the globe, it 
will at once appear probable, that the 
island of Newfoundland was, at no very- 
remote period^ joined to the coast of La- 
brador. It possibly existed in the shape 
of a vast peninsula, until the first rushing 
down of the mighty river St, Lawrence : 
when, perhaps, the narrow isthmus, being- 
unable to resist the fury of the torrent, 
gave way, and opened a northern channel, 
whereby that noble stream might disem- 
bogue itself into the Atlantic Ocean. In 
searching for the remains of the former 
isthmus, to support the hypothesis here 
suggested, the islands of Belle-isle and 
Quirpon present themselves, stretched hke 
a broken ridge across the Straits between 
the south-eastern extremity of Labrador, 
called Cape Charles, and the north-eastern 
promontory of Newfoundland. For many 

years 



92 VO^YAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

years after the British fisheries had been 
established upon the Labrador coast, the 
Straits of Belle-isle were conjectured to be 
extremely dangerous as a passage for large 
vessels. About the year 1795, the French 
Admiral Richery, taking advantage of our 
ignorance in this respect, entered the Straits 
with a flying squadron, where he did con- 
siderable damage to the fisheries. Messrs. 
Noble, Pinson, and Sou, who possessed a 
considerable settlement in V Anse-a-Loup 
Bay, with their own hands set fire to their 
large magazine of provisions and stores, 
that they might not serve as a supply to 
refresh the enemy's squadron. By this 
patriotic action the mercantile house in 
question incurred a loss of twenty thousand 
pounds ; for which disinterested and loyal 
conduct they have never been, in the 
slightest degree, remunerated hj ih^ British 
Government. 

Since 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 93 

Since this disaster, a King s ship is usually 
stationed in the Straits of Belle-isle, during- 
war, to guard the fisheries until the end of 
the season ; when the ice, by entirely 
blocking up the channel, affords a suffi- 
cient security until the approach of the 
ensuing summer. 

On the 4th of July, we imagined our- 
selves to be near, the entrance of the Straits ; 
but such a thick fog prevailed, that we 
could scarce distinguish the end of our 
ship's jib-boom. And here we were 
destined to owe our safety, as in a former 
instance^, to the acute ears of Captain 
Campbell ; who, upon listening very atten- 
tively, and putting his head as near as pos- 
sible to the surface of the sea, could faintly 
distinguish the dashing of a surf, appa- 
rently at no great distance from the ship. 
The lead v^^as immediately thrown over- 
board, 

* See page 22. 



94 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

board, and it struck bottom with thirty-five 
fathoms of line. No time was to be lost, 
as the roaring of the breakers could now 
be distinctly heard by every person on 
board : we therefore let fall the anchor, to 
await the dispersion of the fog. At length 
the vapour slowly cleared away ; and our 
astonishment may be conceived, when we 
perceived the black rocks of Green Island 
within a quarter of a mile of the Rosamond, 
with the wrecks of two large ships lying 
bilged upon the beach ! * Had it not been 
for the attentive vigilance of our skilful 
Commander, it is certain that our ship 
would have completed a dismal trio upon the 
shores of this desolate and dangerous island. 

Green Island is an uninhabited spot, lying 
at the mouth of a deep inlet, called Bradore 

Bay; 



* Two large timber ships, from Canada, had been stranded 
«pon Green Island, a short time previous to our arrival in the 
Straits of Belle-isle, 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 95 

Bay ; and there is anchorage between 
it and the coast of Labrador : but a heavy 
swell of the sea renders the roadstead 
dangerous for large vesselsf . 

Bradore Bay takes its name, perhaps, 
from La Brador ; as it is situate upon the 
southern side of that immense peninsula, 
and near the entrance of a large gulph, 
called Esquimaux Bay. It has depth of 
water sufficient to float a frigate ; but, at 
the same time, is rendered useless as a 
harbour, by the incalculable number of 
small rocks which it contains. Bradore 
Bay is also much exposed to the violence of 
the westerly winds : it may therefore be 
considered a very unsafe anchorage for 
ships of heavy burthen. In consequence 
of the dangers and inconveniences attending 

its 

t ^Vhile we were stationed on the Labrador coast, the 
Bachelor merchantman anchored between Green Island and 
the main land ; and a heavy sea arising, her rudder was 
thereby absolutely thumped from the stern. 



% VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

its navigation, this bay has not more 
than ten settled inhabitants, but it is fre- 
quently visited by the Canadian fishermen 
in summer. 

The great Esquimaux Bay has a strong 
in- draught ofF its mouth, which is very 
liable to draw vessels out of their true 
course. It was owing solely to this circum- 
stance that our ship had so nearly been 
driven upon Green Island. 

L'Anse le Blanc, or UAnse le Clair, is 
the next bay to the eastward of Bradore. 
This place contains about fifty inhabitants ; 
but, like the latter, it is not a port capable 
of sheltering large vessels. The author 
has merely noticed LAnse le Blanc, be- 
cause it is said to contain the most exten- 
sive ^ea/ fishery that has been established in 
the Straits of Belle-isle, 

Towards 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 97 

Towards the evening of July the 5th, 
we anchored in Forteau Bay, on the coast 
of Labrador. From this time forward, as 
we were continually sailing to and fro 
about the Straits of Belle-isle, it will be 
unnecessary to notice the exact date of the 
observations; and, by discontinuing to do so, 
the description of Labrador will appear 
more regular and connected. 

The whole of the southern coast of 
Labrador, bordering upon the Straits 
of Belle-isle, was originally inhabited by 
that singular nation, the Bsquirnaux, It 
is probable, also, that, during their sum- 
mer voyages, they may have formerly been 
accustomed to visit the opposite shores of 
Newfoundland : but their antipathy to a 
residence near European settlements has 
gradually induced them to remove farther 
towards the north ; and we now find them 
inhabiting only those frozen tracts where 

H no 



98 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

no Europeans, except the indefatigable 
Moravian Missionaries, would venture to 
take up their abode. 

At Sandwich Bay, upon the eastern coast 
of Labrador, there are about eight or nine 
famihes of British settlers. Here it is that 
the encroachments of the fishermen have 
terminated ; and, consequently, it is only 
in the vast regions to the northward of this 
bay that the habitations of the Esquimaux 
are to be found*. The Europeans have 
established a sort of yearly traffic with 
them ; giving supplies of amiminition, guns, 
and clothing, in return for fiii^s, oil, and 

whalehone. 



* The author is aware, that, in his Narrative of a Voyage to 
Hudson's Bay, he has already described the manners and 
customs of the Esquimaux in their totally savage state. The 
observations respecting them in the present work will, there- 
fore, be confined to those tribes that lie scattered along the 
coast of Labrador, from Hudson s Straits to Sandwich Bay; 
who, by their frequent intercourse with the Europeans^ may 
be considered to be in a state of greater civihzation than their 
more northern brethren. 



AXD THE COxlST OF LABRADOR. 99 

whalebone. The Indians bring all their 
commodities to the Settlements by water^ 
in large open boats, which they procure in 
barter from the fishermen ; and, during the 
time occupied in their commercial voyages 
towards the soittli, the whole tribe repose at 
night beneath tents of seal-skin, made suf- 
ficiently roomy for their reception, and of 
materials that are equally impervious to 
wind or rain. 

The dexterity displayed by the Esqui- 
maux, in killing quadrupeds, birds, and 
fishes, for their subsistence, is not to 
be surpassed by the ingenuity of more 
polished nations. They are, moreover, 
honest in their principles, mild in their dis- 
positions, and hospitable to unprotected 
strangers ; but both sexes are much addicted 
to the pernicious use of spirituous liquors. 

The Moravian Missionaries have laboured 
H 2 hard 



100 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

hard to implant the Christian faith upon the 
shores of Labrador, and they have suc- 
ceeded as well as could be expected ; but 
the Indians are so attached to their antient 
superstitions, that they hesitate not to sacri- 
jice a favourite child on the grave of its de- 
ceased parent, under a belief that their 
earthly dissolution is immediately succeeded 
by a blissful re-union above; and this 
they do, notwithstanding their conscious- 
ness of the enormity attending so horrid an 
action. 

The Esquimaux are always well provided 
with their peculiar breed of dogs; in appear- 
ance so nearly resembling wolves, that they 
are easily mistaken for that animal. These 
dogs are so voracious and fierce, that they 
have been frequently known to devour the 
unprotected children of their masters : they 
are used by the Indians to drag their lug- 
gage over the snow in winter ; and the 

young 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 101 

young c/ogs are valued as a delicate species of 
food by the same people. "^ The seal is eaten 
in a variety of v^ays. From the entrails they 
manufacture a thin transparent garment, 
which, like an oil-case, will keep out a 
great deal of rain. They are, however, 

c 

strongly attached to Eurvpea?! clothing ; and 
seldom wear any other, when woollen 
dresses can possibly be procured. 

The Esqumaiix Indians have a method of 
entirely embanking their huts with turf and 
moss, excepting a small casement of oiled 
seal-skin at the top. By this means, they 
are enabled to exist the whole winter 
without the aid of fire ; as the closeness of 
the habitation renders the place as #arm 
as an oven. 

The singular attachment of this people 
to their native land is worthy of observation. 
It is an incontestable fact, that the frozen 

seas 



/ 

102 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

seas and icy valleys of the North present 
more forcible allurements to the roving 
Esquimaux than the gentle waves and 
cerulean skies of more temperate regions. 

Such are the tribes v^ho, in detached 
parties, inhabit the sea-coast of Labrador : 
but the interio?^ of this peninsula is occupied 
by a race of Indians, whose whole support 
is derived from animals which they kill in 
hunting. The latter are called Mountaineers, 
or Hunting Indians, by the Eu?^opean settlers ; 
and are, in every respect, a distinct people 
from the Esquimaux, The latter obtains a 
precarious subsistence entirely by his la- 
bours upon the ocean ; the other, by his 
activity upon the land. The Hunting 
Indian, unless when roused by the pressing 
calls of hunger, is slothful, stupid, arrogant, 
cowardly, and superstitious: the Esquimaux, 
on the contrary, is habitually active, enter- 
prising, ingenious, and independent. The 

former 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 103 

former possesses a set of features which is 
said to be decidedly Tahtarian, whilst the 
features of the latter bear a striking resem- 
blance to the Samdiedes of Europe*, 

There are few tribes of Hunting hidians 
in Labrador that do not profess the Catholic 
religion ; but the whole of their faith con- 
sists in paying a stupid homage to those 
little pictures of the Crucifixion that are 
strung about their swarthy necks by the 
Canadian Missionaries. They have fallen 
into the common error of all half-proselytes 
to Christianity ; and, like the Russia?! 
peasantry, bestow that adoration on a 
symbol of the Divinity, which should only 
be paid to the Supreme Being. Ostenta- 
tious to excess of their Scriptural appella- 
tions, they have not imbibed a particle of 
that meek and charitable spirit which was so 
eminently conspicuous in the lives of their 

holy 

* See the Frontispiece. 



104 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

holy namesakes. Instead of living in 
'' goo.d-will tawards men/' they bear an 
hereditary and inveterate hatred to the 
Esquimaux, whom they consider to be the 
most abject and degraded of mankind — 
'' A set of dogs," say they, '' without a 
'' name*, without courage, and without the 
'' ivisdom of a Mountaineer ^ With all this 
opinion of their own sagacity, they possess 
scarcely sufficient foresight to provide food 
for their winter consumption ; and in in- 
vention they are manifestly inferior to the 
despised Esquimaux. They pretend to 
prognosticate the weather from the appear- 
ance of the Moon. When it is thus,^ 
or, as they explain it, when the Moon is in 
such a position that they can hang their 
shot-belt over the horn, fair and frosty 
weather may be expected : but when the 
luminary assumes a more perpendicular 

attitude, 

* The Esquimaux have not yet adopted the use o^ Christian 
names. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 105 

attitude, thus, ^ the Indians affirm that 
fogs and warmth are certain to folio Wf. 

A continual trade is carried on between 
the Mountaineers and the Europeans. The 
former bring down furs to the Settlements, 
and exchange them for ammunition and 
clothing. They are quite as fond of being 
clad in woollen apparel, as are their ene- 
mies the Esquimaux ; and their inclination 
for intoxicating liquors is perhaps more 
violent. Although the Hunting Indians be 
very expert in the use of fire-arms, yet they 
are frequently compelled, by a scarcity of 
ammunition, to recur for support to their 
original weapons, the bow and arrows; 
and with these they can kill a flying par- 
tridge at forty yards' distance. Their canoes 

are 



f There is a similar notion prevalent among seamen re- 
specting the foretelling of weather by the Moon. They say, 
that " when the Moon lies on her back,'' it is the sure presage 
of an approaching storm. 



CL 



106 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

are made of birch bark; and being quite 
portable and light, are usually carried with 
them across the deserts, together with the 
necessary materials for erecting their huts. 
The sledges are constructed of a thin birch 
board, turned up before, in this manner, 
^ and shod with slips of bone. 
The Mountaineers draw their ow^n sledges ; 
as their dogs are but small, and used only 
for the purposes of hunting. ;< 

It has been justly observed, that the 
numerous nations described by enthusiastic 
travellers as inhabiting the internal parts 
of North America are, in fact, nothing 
more than scanty clans, containing each but 
a few families oi Indians, This remark, 
however, will apply but partially to the 
natives of Labrador : for, although the 
Moufitaineers be divided into separate tribes, 
who each have a dialect peculiar to them- 
selves, yet they form collectively a great 

7iation, 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 107 

nation, in every respect dissimilar to the 
Esquimaux. The latter, also, have been 
admitted, by the best historians oi America*, 
to be a race so widely distinct, in language, 
manners, and customs, from the inhabi- 
tants of the interior, that they ought to be 
denominated an independent people. La- 
brador, therefore, contains two great and 
separate nations, however subdivided they 
may be found. The barrenness of the soil, 
and the difficulty of procuring subsistence, 
have naturally dispersed and scattered their 
numbers ; whereas, had the very same 
nations been placed by Providence in those 
fertile countries that lie near the Isthmus of 
Darien, they would probably have become 
equally civilized with the antient Peruvians 
or Mexicans. 

We will here conclude our sketch of 

the 

* Rolertsoji'&Hht. o^ America, Vol.1. p,307. Book iv. 



108 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

the native inhabitants of Labrador, and 
proceed to a description of the principal Set- 
tlements of the Europeans on the south-east 
coasts of that country. 

Forfeau is a very extensive bay, situate 
about ten miles to the eastward of the 
before-mentioned L Arise le Blanc. It is 
sheltered from all winds between east and 
luest to the nortlnuard, and is considered as 
the most considerable of the British ^sta^ 
blishments in the Straits of Belle-isle ; yet it 
is certainly neither a convenient nor a 
secure anchorage. Large ships are com- 
pelled to ride upon the edge of a bank, in 
eighteen fathoms' water, lying near the 
tvestern side of the bay. The holding- 
ground is very bad : and during a hard 
tuesterly gale, there is much danger of the 
anchor dragging off the bank ; when the 
only chance of safety would consist in 
cutting the cable, and putting immediately 

to 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 109 

to sea : for the eastern shore is so rocky, 
that it would inevitably prove the destruc- 
tion of any vessel v^hich might happen to 
be driven upon it. 

This bay is defended by lofty mountains 
towards the east and west ; but is particu- 
larly exposed to the violence of the north 
wind, when rushing through a valley at 
the head of it. The difficulty of watering, 
and the total impossibility of obtain- 
ing fire-wood, will ever render Forteau 
an inconvenient port for the resort of 
shipping. 

A great jealousy exists between the 
Guernsey adventurers, who occupy the 
western side of this bay, and the English 
families established upon the opposite 
shore. The latter stigmatize the former as 
cheats and swindlers ; whilst the former 
represent the latter to be notoriously 

knavish 



no VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

knavish in all their dealings. The fact is, 
that they are only envious of each other's 
gains ; and the Guernsey people, by being 
the most industrious, are generally the 
most calumniated. The vessels of these 
thriving islanders are slightly built, and 
calculated to make speedy voyages : so that 
by hurrying out to Newfoundland as 
early in the year as possible, they quickly 
procure cargoes of cod; and as speedily 
recrossing the Atlantic, they by this means 
succeed in getting the first of the Spanish 
and Portuguese markets, whereby they 
obtain a high price for their fish, and incur 
the resentment of those who are less expe- 
ditions in their mercantile speculations. 
There are, in all, about eighteen boats 
constantly employed at Forteau. During 
the fishing season, the English reside in 
Labrador all the winter ; but the Guernsey- 
men quit it in the autumn, and return 
thither again in the spring. 

According 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. Ill 

According to a curious old custom, the 
s-um of sixty pounds sterling is annually- 
bestowed upon the master of that vessel 
which may chance to arrive first at Forteau, 
in the beginning of the year ; and the per- 
son who receives the reward is dignified by 
the title of Admiral of the Fishery for the 
ensuing season. Where there are no com- 
missioned magistrates, it is the duty of this 
individual to take cognizance of offences. 
There are also a few trifling privileges 
attached to the ofhce ; amongst which, is 
the exclusive right to a salmon river at the 
head of the bay; When we were at For- 
teau, a Guernsey Captain had gained the 
reward ; and by farming the salmon fishery 
for forty pounds more, he thus cleared the 
sum of one hundred pounds, without the 
least exertion or labour on his own part. 

Having discovered that there was much 
more secure anchorage in a bay about six 

miles 



112 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

miles to the eastward of Forteau, our 
Captain resolved to proceed thither without 
delay : accordingly, we left the former 
place on the eleventh of July, and reached 
UAnse a Loup, or Wolf Bay, on the evening 
of the same day. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 113 



CHAR V. 



L'ANSE A LOUP. 

Le Petit Nord — L'Anse a Loup — Conflagration — Author 
leaves Ms Ship — Departure of the Rosamond — System 
of Bank-flshing from Kaynal — Shoi-e fishery— Method 
of curing Cod — Qualities of Dried Cod — The 
Capelin — Scenery of Labrador — Berries — Birds — 
Animals — Fishes — Mosquitos. 

It has been already related*, that the fish- 
ermen of jFra/zce occupied the northern and 
southern shores oi Newfoundland, previous to 
their total resignation of the island by the 
memorable Treaty of Utrecht, Those lands 
that border on the Straits oi Belle-isle were 
called Le Petit Nord'\ by the people qf 

that 

* See page 40, Chap. IL 

t Raynal's Hist, of the East and Jfeyi Indies, Vol. VII, 
p. 193. Book xvii. Land. 1783. 



114 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

that nation; and most of the harbours then 
received the French appellations, which a 
greater number of them retain to the pre- 
sent day. 

L'Anse a Loup is the safest open bay on 
the whole southern coast of Labrador. In 
its appearance, it somewhat resembles For- 
teau; as the same kind of lofty mountains 
defend it towards the ea5^ and west; and a 
similar valley at the head of the bay forms 
a passage, through which the furious north 
wind rushes, with tremendous violence. 
But the anchorage is here rendered more 
secure by the greater projection of the 
headlands ; and the place may therefore be 
recommended as most eligible head-quarters 
for any ship of war that may be hereafter 
stationed to protect the fisheries of Labra- 
dor. In this point of view, one of its 
chief advantages will be found to consist in 
the facility with which a vessel may put to 

sea. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 115 

sea, with the wind in any direction. From 
hence, also, a fine prospect may be com- 
manded of the whole Straits of Belle-isle, 
and the opposite coast of Newfoundland 
from Point Ferrolle to Cape Norman. 

On entering UAnse-a-Loiip Bay, a ship 
ought to steer for the center of the sandy 
beach, until the depth of water shoals to 
twelve or thirteen fathoms; when the 
anchor should be immediately dropped; 
as the holding-ground is not so good, if she 
approach any nearer towards the shore. 
It is also preferable to choose a situation 
to the eastivard, rather than in the exact 
center of the bay; as the obtaining supplies 
of wood and water will thereby be greatly 
facilitated. 

There is a small inlet, called Bear Cove, 

near the south-west extremity of the bay; 

containing the extensive cod and seal 

I 2 fisheries 



116 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

fisheries of Mr. Finson, a merchant of Dart- 
mouthy who is the chief magistrate, and 
most considerable person upon the whole 
coast of Labrador. 

Most excellent fresh water is easily pro- 
cured from a fine stream that empties 
itself into the sea, in a north-east direction 
from the place of anchorage. Fire- wood is 
is also plentiful along the banks of the 
river; and it is from thence the inhabitants 
of L'Anse a Loup derive their supplies of 
fuel for the winter season. 

On the third day after our arrival 
at this place, one of our seamen, whilst 
employed in felling timber for the ship's 
use, was so imprudent as to kindle a fire 
in the forest; in the hope, that, by the 
smoke, he would probably rid himself and 
his companions of the innumerable myriads 
of mosquitos, which tormented them almost 

to 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 117 

to madness*. This scheme succeeded to 
their utmost wish ; and they were rejoicing 
at their deliverance, when, in an instant, 
the whole country appeared enveloped in 
fire ! A high wind drove the flames from 
tree to tree, with the rapidity of lightning : 
and had it not been for the intervention of 
the river, the whole of the forest must have 
been inevitably reduced to ashes. As it 
was, all those trees which stood on the 
western side of the stream were consumed. 
An order was immediately issued by Cap- 
tain Campbell, strictly prohibiting the light- 
ing of fires upon the shore, under any pre- 
tence whatsoever : ''for," as he expressed 
hinlself, ''the negligence and carelessness of 
^' one man had been nearly the cause of de- 
** priving a whole fishery, for years to come, 

" of 

* This is the common practice of all the Laplanders ; and 
the immense conflagrations in the north of Sweden and Lap- 
land are chiefly owing to the same cause. 



118 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

*^ of their only comfort in winter ; whereby, 
'' perhaps, the inhabitants might have been 
*^ led to consider His Majesty's ship more 
** in the light of a free-booting enemy, 
^^ than as a British man-of-war, sent hither 
*^ on purpose to protect them from similar 
^' outrages." 

The rapidity with which the flames 
spread in the forests of these countries 
has been noticed by many early writers. 
That such dreadful conflagrations frighten 
away the rein-deer, is certain. It has even 
been asserted, by Sfephanus Parmenus (a 
learned Hungarian, born at Biida, who 
accompanied Sir Humphrey Gilbert in his 
voyage,) and '' confirmed by very cre- 
'^ dible persons, that when the like hap- 
'^ pened by chance, the fish never came near 
'^ the place in seven years after, by reason 
^^ of the water being made bitter by the 

^' turpentine 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 119 

turpentine and resin of the trees, which 
^^ ran into the rivers ^." 

The Straits of Belle-isle are not more 
than ten miles wide, immediately oppo- 
site to the bay of U Anse a Loup, We 
therefore erected a signal-post upon the 
south-west promontory ; and stationed a 
careful person there, to give us timely 
notice, should any suspicious vessel make 
her appearance in the Straits. We also 
placed a few small cannon near the same 
spot; so that we might be enabled, at any 
future period, to ascertain the position of 
our ship, in the event of her being again 
enveloped in one of those dangerous fogs, 
that, in a former instance, had been so 
nearly the cause of her destruction. 

A previous 

* See an account of Sir Humphrey Gillert's Voyage t© 
JS/ewfoundland ; written by Stephanus Parmenus Budeus to 
the Rev. Mr. Richard Hahluyt, M. A. at Christ Churchy 
Oxford. — In Harrises Collection of Voyages and Travels, 
1705. 



120 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

A previous residence of many years in a 
tropical climate had rendered the author 
liable to a rheumatic disorder, which the 
chilly and dense atmosphere of Labrador 
was peculiarly qualified to excite ; and its 
consequent paroxysms became so violent, 
that he was soon unable to attend to his 
duty on board the Rosamond. This being 
known to Mr. Pinson, one of the resident 
merchants, he requested and obtained per- 
mission to remove the invalid to his own 
house ; where, for a length of time, he 
patiently bestowed the most benevolent 
attentions upon his guest, allowing him. 
every comfort necessary for the restoration 
of his health : an obligation which the 
author can only repay by this acknowledg- 
ment of his kindness *. 

The 

* It was from this gentleman, also, that the author derived 
a great share of his information respecting the Fisheries, &c. 
. — Mr. Pinson possessed a most intelligent mind, in addition 
to the experience of twenty years' residence on the Labrador 
coasL 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 121 

The day after this removal took place, the 
Rosamond sailed away, in an easterly direc- 
tion, towards Red Bay. It was Captain 
CampbelVs intention to collect the boat-tax 
in most of the harbours of Labrador, pre- 
viously to his quitting the coast in the fall 
of the year. 

A residence of some time in the midst of 
a cod-jisliery , during the bustle and confu- 
sion of the season, afforded a good oppor- 
tunity for making a few remarks upon the 
method of catching and curing cod in New- 
foundland : and the author has inserted 
them the more wilUngly, because he has 
found, since his return to England, that, 
although many have attempted to describe 
the same, very little reliance ought to be 
placed upon their representations t- 

For 



t The author's observations relats exclusively to the 
British Fisheries, In 1813, the wars of Europe prevented all 
other nations from participating in them. 



122 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

For many years after the first coloniza- 
tion of Newfoundland, the whole of the 
cod-fishery was confined to the great banks 
of sand lying off this island, in the Atlantic 
Ocean, Of late years, however, it has 
been discovered that cod-fish abound equally 
along the shores of the island itself. At 
this time, the war with America had almost 
annihilated the Bank-fisheries ; and it was 
owing to this circumstance that the author 
had no opportunity of describing them from 
personal observation : but he has ventured 
to insert a brief extract* from a celebrated 
work on the subject oi Banh-fishing : merely 
adding, that it is now the custom to carry 
the cod on shore, and dry them in the sun, 
after they have been salted in the manner 
which is there mentioned. 

^' Previous to their beginning iht fishery, 

'' they 

* RnynaVs Hist, of the East 2iX\^ West Indies, Vol. VII. 
p. 198. Book xvii. Lond. 1783. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 123 

*^ they build a gallery on the outside of the 
^' ship, which reaches from the main- mast 
*' to the stern, and sometimes the whole 
*• length of the vessel. This gallery is 
'^ furnished with barrels, with the tops 
'' beaten out. The fishermen place them- 
*^ selves within these, and are sheltered from 
'^ the weather by a pitched covering 
'^ fastened to the barrels. As soon as they 
'^ catch a cody they cut out its tongue ; and 
^^ give the fish to one of the boys, to carry 
'* it to a person appointed for the purpose, 
*^ who immediately strikes off the head, 
^* plucks out the liver and entrails, and then 
^Mets it fall, through a small hatch-way, 
*' between decks; when another man takes 
*^ it, who draws out the bone as far as the 
'' navel, and then lets it sink, through 
'' another hatch- way, into the hold, where 
'[ it is salted and ranged in piles. The 
'' person who salts it takes care to leave salt 
*' enough between each row of fish, but not 

'' more 



124 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

'' more than is sufficient, to prevent their 
" touching each other: for either of these cir- 
'^ cumstances neglected, v^ould spoil the cod.'' 

In another place, the same author says, 
that the cod ^' v^hich is only salted, is called 
'^ green cod, and is caught upon the great 
'' banVr 

We will now proceed to describe what 
is called the S hore- fisher y . The method of 
catching and curing the cod, in the latter, 
is the same throughout the whole of New- 
foundland and the British Settlements in 
Labrador. 

There are a number of boats, fitted with 
masts and sails, belonging to each ^^Aere/; 
two or four men being stationed to a boat. 

At 

* Although the lankjishery had been much discontinued 
at the time when the author was in NEWFOtJNDLAND ; yet it 
has since been revived, in consequence of the general peace 
prevailing over Europe. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 125 

At the earliest dawn of day, the whole of 
these vessels proceed to that part of the 
coast where the cod are most plentiful ; for 
they move in shoals, and frequently alter 
their position, according to the changes 
of the wind. When the resort of the fish 
has been ascertained, the boats let. fall their 
anchors, and the men cast over their lines. 
Each man has two lines to attend ; and 
every line has two hooks affixed to it, 
which are baited either with capelin, or 
herrings. The men stand upon a flat 
flooring ; and are divided from each other 
by a sort of bins, like shop-counters, placed 
athwart the center of the boat. Having 
drawn up the line, they lay the cod upon 
the bin, and strike it upon the back of the 
head with a piece of wood in the shape of 
a rolling-pin : this blow stuns the fish, and 
causes it to yawn its jaws widely asunder, 
by which means the hook is easily ex- 
tracted. Then the fish is dropped into 

the 



l26 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

the bin, and the line again thrown over ; 
v^hilst the fisherman, instantly turning 
round, proceeds to pull up the opposite 
line : so that one line is running out, and 
the other pulling in, at the same instant. 
Thus the boatmen continue, until their vessel 
is filled ; when they proceed to discharge 
their cargo at the sort of fishing-stage 
represented in the Vignette to Chapter 11. 

The cod are pitched from the boat, upon 
the stage, with a pike : care being taken 
to stick this pike into their heads ; as a 
wound in the body might prevent the salt 
from having its due effect, and thereby 
spoil the Jish. When the boats are emptied, 
the fishermen procure a fresh quantity of 
bait, and return again to their employment 
on the water ; whence, in the course of 
an hour or two, perhaps, they again reach 
the stage with another cargo. 

Having 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 127 

Having thus explained the method of 
cod-jishing, it remains only to describe the 
manner of curing. Each salting-house is 
provided with one or more tables, around 
which are placed wooden chairs and leathern 
aprons, for the cut- throat s^ headers, and 
splitters. The fish having been thrown 
from the boats, a boy is generally employed 
to bring them from the stage, and place 
them on the table before the cut-throat ; 
who rips open the bowels ; and, having 
also nearly severed the head from the body, 
he passes it along the table to his right- 
hand neighbour, the header, whose busi- 
ness it is to pull off the head, and tear out 
the entrails : from these he selects the liver, 
and, in some instances, the sound. The 
head and entrails being precipitated through 
a trunk into the sea, the liver is thrown into 
a cask, whence it distils in oil ; and the 
sounds, if intended for preservation, are 
salted. After having undergone this 

operation. 



128 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

operation, the cod is next passed across the 
table to the splitter, who cuts out the hach- 
hone as low as the navel, in the twinkling 
of an eye. From hence the cod are carried 
in hand-barrows to the Salter ; by whom 
they are spread, in layers, upon the top of 
each other, with a proper quantity of salt 
between each layer. In this state the Jisk 
continue for a few days ; when they are 
again taken, in barrows, to a sort of wooden 
box, full of holes, which is suspended from 
the stage in the sea. The washer stands 
up to his knees in this box, and scrubs the 
salt off the cod with a soft mop. The fish 
are then taken to a convenient spot, and 
piled up to drain ; and the heap, thus 
formed, is styled '' a tvater -horse,'' On 
the following day, the cod are removed to 
thcfish'Jlakes, where they are spread in the 
sun to dry : and from thenceforward they 
are kept constantly turned during the day, 
and piled up in small heaps, called ^aci^^^, 

at 



AXD THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 129 

at night. The upper fish are always laid with 
their bellies downward ; so that the skin of 
their backs answers the purpose of a thatch^ 
to keep the lower fish dry. By degrees, the 
size of 'these fiackets is increased^ until, 
at length, instead of small parcels, they 
assume the form of large circular stacks ; 
and in this state the cod are left for a few 
days, as the fishermen say, '' to siveat^ 
The process of curing is now complete ; 
and the fish are afterwards stored up in 
warehouses, lying ready for exportation. 

With such amazing celerity is the ope- 
ration of heading, splitting, and salting, 
performed, that it is not an unusual thing 
to see ten cod-fish decapitated, their entrails 
thrown into the sea, and their back-bones 
torn out, in the short space of one minute 
and a half. 

The Splitter receives the highest w^ages, 
K and 



130 VOTAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

and holds a rank next to the Master of a 
Fishery : but the Salter is also a person of 
great consideration, upon whose skill the 
chief preservation of the cod depends. 

There are three qualities of cured cod-Jish 
in Newfoundland. They are distinguished 
by the different titles of — 

Merchantable Jish : those of the largest 
size^ best colour, and altogether finest 
quality. 

Madeira fish ; which are nearly as valu- 
able as the former. This sort is chiefly ex- 
ported to supply the Spanish and Portuguese 
markets. 

JVest- India Jish : the refuse of the whole. 
These last are invariably sent for sale, to feed 
the Negroes of the Caribbee Islands. 

In the principal harbours of Newfound- 
land and Labrador, there are sworn 
umpires, appointed for the purpose of 

arbitrating 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 13l 

arbitrating between buyer and seller, to 
ascertain correctly the different qualities of 
the Jish, and to regulate the respective prices 
of each. 

It has already been observed, that the 
cod are taken by hooks, baited either with 
capelin or herrings. The latter is a kind of 

Jish well known in Europe ; but the capelin 
seem to be peculiar to the coasts of New- 
foundland and Labrador. As they are 
equally plentiful with the cod in those 
countries, and are, as a bait, so essentially 
necessary towards obtaining the latter, a 
short account of them may not be unac- 
ceptable to the reader ; particularly as these 

fall have been strangely overlooked by the 
most distinguished naturalists. 

The capelin is a small and delicate species 
of fah, greatly resembling the smelt. It 
visits the shores we are describing about the 

K 2 months 



132 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

months of August and Sept&mber, for the 
evident purpose of depositing its spawn 
upon the sandy beaches. At such times, 
the swarms of these fish are so numerous, 
that they darken the surface of the sea for 
miles in extent, w^hilst the cod prey upon 
them with the utmost voracity. The man- 
ner of the capelins depositing its spaw^n 
is one of the most curious circumstances 
attending its natural history. The male 
fishes are somewhat larger than the female, 
and are provided also with a sort of ridge, 
projecting on each side of their back-bones, 
similar to the eaves of a house, in which 
the female capelin is deficient. The latter, 
on approaching the beach to deposit its 
spawn, is attended by two male fishes, who 
huddle the female between them, until her 
whole body is concealed under the project- 
ing ridges before mentioned, and only her 
head is visible. In this state they run, all 
three together, with great swiftness, upon 

the 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 133 

the sands ; when the males, by some im- 
perceptible inherent power, compress the 
body of the female betwixt their own, so 
as to expel the spawn from an orifice near 
the tail. Having thus accomplished its 
delivery, the three capdin separate; and, 
paddling with their whole force through the 
shallow surf of the beach, generally suc- 
ceed in regaining, once more, the bosom of 
the deep. 

It is an entertaining sight, while standing 
upon the shore, to observe myriads of these 
fishes, forsaking their own element, and 
running their bodies on the sand, in all 
directions. Many of them find it totally 
impossible to return to the water, and thus 
the beaches of Labrador are frequently 
covered with dead capelin. They have 
so little timidity, that when the author 
has waded into the sea, amidst a shoal 
of them, he has taken two or three at a 

time, 



134 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

time, in his hands. Upon these occasions, 
he was enabled to ascertain, beyond a 
doubt, that the evacuation of the spawn is 
caused by a cowpression on the part of the 
males; as, when thus taken in the hand, 
the female capelin invariably yielded up its 
spawn the instant that it received the 
sUghtest pressure from the fingers. 

The capelin are sometimes salted and 
dried by the fishermen, and afterwards 
toasted, with butter, for their break- 
fasts. 

The Rosamond had quitted L'Anse a Loup 
but a few days ; when the author, taking his 
fishing apparatus with him, proceeded, on a 
solitary ramble, to the trout river at tlie north- 
eastern part of the bay. He had gone more 
than two thirds of the way, when, on turn- 
ing round, he perceived a prodigious female 
bear, with her two cubs, sitting upon that 

part 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 135 

part of the beach which he had just crossed. 
The situation was not an enviable one : for 
the Fishery was nearly two miles distant ; 
the hear occupied the only road back ; the 
trout river terminated the advance in front : 
added to all which, the author w^as totally 
unarmed, and almost unable to move, from 
the effects of a most violent rheumatic 
affection in his hip joint. Under all these 
circumstances, there remained but one plan 
for his adoption ; which was, to remain 
stationary at the river, until the ^e^jr should 
choose to decamp. Accordingly, he pro- 
ceeded with his fishing; and, had it not 
been for the apprehensions excited by the 
gruff-looking savage in the rear, the sport 
would have afforded considerable diversion. 
At last, however, the bear and her cubs rose 
from their resting-place, and turned off 
into the woods ; w^hile the author hobbled^ 
back to the Fishery, with a full determina- 
tion never to venture forth again alone, 

without 



136 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

without being well provided with lire- 
arms, or some other means of defence. 

Labrador presents the most varied, 
and, in some places, the most majestic 
scenery. Near the sea, lofty rocks* cast their 

embrowning 

* The nature of the rocks of Newfoundland remains to be 
ascertained ; more knowledge being actually possessed of the 
minerals of Labrador than of this island. The inattention 
shewn to this important subject is generally a discreditable 
characteristic of our own nation, whether in voyages of dis- 
covery or of commerce. The French were actually better 
acquainted with the mineralogy and geology of Newfound- 
i/AND, in the beginning of the eighteenth century, than we 
are in the nineteenth. Baron Lahontan, who was Lord Lieu- 
tenant of the French colony at Placentia, in the observations 
prefixed to his accurate map of the island, tells us, that in 
Newfoundland, as well as in Cape Breton, they found 
porphyry of several colours ; and he adds, that care had been 
taken to send specimens of it to France. " I have seen," 
says he, *' some of those porphyries, that were red, streaked 
" with green, and seemed to be extremely fine. The island 
" of Cape Breton affords, likewise, black marble, and a sort of 
" breccia with grey veins," — Lahontan s New Voyages to 
North America, vol. L p. 225. London, 1703. 

But the most remarkable mineral product of Cape Breton 
and Newfoundland, and certainly the most important to 
Great Britain^ is the coal mentioned hj Raynal, and 

strongly 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 137 

embrowning shadows upon the surface of 
the water. Farther inland, the country is 
diversified with mountain and plain, woods 
and waters, naked rocks, and an assem- 
blage of the most beautiful mosses, of 
every hue that can possibly be enumerated. 
In one place, a swampy marsh produces 
tbemost luxuriant grasses : in another, the 

dry 

strongly insisted upon by JVilliams*^ as being found abun- 
dantly in those islands. Several navigators, who had been 
at Louisherg, assured Jf^illiams, that Cape Breton abounds 
with coal ; to such a degree, as to appear in the cliiFs near 
the harbour. We are further informed by Raynal, that a 
seam of coal was set on fire at Cape Breton, which burned 
with great fury. The existence of abundance of coal in 
the island of Newfoundland is understood to be an esta- 
blished fact; and this, on account of its vicinity to the 
great Jishing lank, is a more important situation for coal 
than Cape Breton. *' The latter,'' says IVilliams-f, '^^ may be 
called the key of Canada; but Newfound/ nd is the 
asylum and defence of the cod fshery ; and the value of 
this great nursery for sailors is of the utmost consequence 
to a maritime and commercial nation, whose natural and 
surest defence is her naval force." Neitfoundland, Cape 
Breton, and the peninsula of Nova Scotia, are all in the 
true line of the bearing of the strata of coal, and others ia 
the same parallels of latitude in other countries. 

* Nat. Hist, of Min. Kingd. Vol. I. p. 179. JSdmb.llSB. 
t Ibid. See pp. 189, 193, &c. 



138 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

dry moss is variegated by innumerable 
clusi rs of wild currants, gooseberries, rasp- 
berries, hurtleberries, cranberries, strav^- 
berries, partridge-berries, and v^hat is 
called, by the fishermen, the baked- apple- 
herry. This last fruit abounds in Labrador, 
and bears a strong resemblance to the 
yellow raspberry*. A sort of wild spinach 
grows in great abundance in the southern 
parts of this country; and cabbages or 
turnips may be produced by proper cul- 
tivation. 

With respect to the feathered race, 
Labrador abounds, in the season, with 
wild geese and duchs, grouse, plovers, par» 
t ridges, yellow- legs, hawks, eagles, jays, a 
great number of smaller birds, and a nume- 
rous variety of oivls. The latter find an 

ample 

* The author has since ascertained, that this delicious 
fruit can be no other than that of the Rulus Chamcemorus of 
Linneeus; called Cloud-berry, in England, 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 139 

ample subsistence in the myriads of mice 
that swarm among the rotten mosses of the 
interior^. A sort of curlew makes its 
appearance here about the middle of 
August, and as suddenly takes its departure 
towards the end of September: they move 
in flights containing many thousands ; and 
when gorged with food, it is not unusual to 
kill ten or twelve at a shot : at such times, 
they are found to be exceedingly plump 

and 



f These are probably of the same nature as the Alpine 
mice of Lapland, called Ltrmnick in that country, and Lem- 
hlar by Samuel Rheeriy as cited by John Scheff'er, who gives to 
this little quadruped the name of Lemmus. It is said that 
the rein-deer eat them. They descend, as it were in a vast 
army, from the mountains ; and pursue their course north- 
ward, in a direct line, until they are lost in the Icy Sea. A 
long account of them is givea by Scheffer ; and JVormius has 
afforded a (description, accompanied by a figure of the 
animal, in his Chapter of Rarities. Their colour is red and 
Hack ; but in winter, white : and they have short tails. 
They are not seen every year : but when they make their 
appearance, the ground is covered by their multitudes. — 
^' Non apparo.t hce quotannis, sed quibusda.m tantum tempo- 
" rilus, veniuntque ex ahrupto tanta copia, ut per totam se 
" diffundant terram^' &c. Olaus JFormius apud /, Scheffer. 
Lappon, cap. 29. p. 344. Franc. 1673. 



140 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

and delicate, and far surpassing any of our 
English Game in richness and flavour. 
Their whistle, colour, and size, greatly 
resemble the plover; but their beak is 
much longer than that of a snipe; although 
they feed entirely upon berries. 

This country abounds in wild animals; 
such as, bears, wolves^ foxes^ hares, martens, 
deer, lynxes, squirrels, and porcupines. The 
latter are very numerous in the woods; and 
their flesh is esteemed a great delicacy 
among the fishermen. Wolves 2i\\^ foxes are 
seldom seen, except in winter; when hunger 
forces them to seek their food even at the 
very doors of the Settlements : they are then 
frequently caught in traps, concealed under 
the snow, and baited with flesh or fish. 
The superior cunning of the fox is here 
most conspicuous ; for it has frequently 
been seen to discharge the spring, by drop- 
ping a large stone into the trap; and thus 

possess 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 141 

possess itself of the bait without the least 
risk of its safety. 

During the time of the author's stay at 
U Arise a Loup, an immense ?i;oZf had made 
itself very obnoxious, by its frequent nightly 
depredations on the poultry-yard. For a 
length of time, this animal escaped the 
whole of the bullets that were fired at 
it; until a young man shot it dead from the 
window of a store-house belonging to the 
Fishery *. 

The Neivfoimdland dog is an animal well 
known in England, for its attachment to 
the water ; but the true breed has become 
scarce, and is rarely to be found, except 

upon 

* The fine skin of this animal was brought to England, and 
presented by the author to John Marten Cripps, Esq. of 
Epsom, Surrey. This gentleman is well known to the world 
as the fellow traveller of Dr. Clarlie. Since his return to his 
native country, Mr. Cripps has distinguished himself by the 
active practice of every Christian virtue, and especially in the 
important discharge of his duty as a Magistrate. 



142 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

upon the coast of Labrador. Most of the 
Fisheries are plentifully supplied with these 
dogSi and they prove of great utility in 
dragging home the winter fuel. They are 
also employed in Newfoundland for the 
same purpose, where they are usually yoked 
in pairs. Such is the disregard of these 
creatures for cold, that, when the thermo- 
meter of Fahrenheit has indicated twenty 
degrees below Zero^ they have been 
known to remain in the sea during an 
entire hour. The fishermen feed their dogs 
upon salted hallibiif, or, indeed, any other 
sort of food ; for they are an extremely 
voracious animal, and will devour almost 
any thing. Their docility is so remark- 
able, that they will leap from the summit of 
the highest clifFinto the water, in obedience 
to the commands of their master. To man 
they are ever gentle and good-natured; so 
much so, indeed, that it has been very cus- 
tomary, of late years, to cross their breed 

with 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 143 

with an English bull- dog, whereby they 
are rendered more fierce and surly towards 
strangers. It is pretended that a thorough- 
bred Newfoundland dog may be known by 
certain black marks on the roof of its 
mouth; but this is by no means a positive 
proof, as many other kinds of dogs have the 
same mark. 

The author has already mentioned, in a 
former work, the method of travelling 
with these dogs, as practised by the Euro-- 
pean settlers in Labrador*. The sledge 
used for this purpose is about twelve feet 
in length, shod on each side with whale- 
bone, and covered with the skin of the 
polar bear. It is drawn by ten or twelve 
dogs, yoked two and two, with a harness 
made of slips oi seal- shin. Two of the most 
sagacious and best- trained dogs are placed in 
front, as leaders ; no reins being necessary ; 

for 

* See Narrative of a Voyage to Hudson s Bay, p_ iqq. 



144 VOYilGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

for the animals will naturally follow 
a beaten track through the snow; and they 
are easily guided by a long whip, the lash 
of which extends to the foremost dogs. The 
rate of travelling varies, according to the 
state of the snow ; but it seldom exceeds 
ten, and is never less than six, miles an 

hour. . 

A 

The author once went, accompanied by 
Mr. Pinson, to examine a salmon net at the 
trout river. In crossing the bay, the cod 
were so plentiful, that w^e killed several of 
them with the oars of the boat. We found 
five fine salmon stuck fast with their gills 
through the net, which extended from 
one side of the river to the other. Although 
it may seem incredible, yet it is nevertheless 
trae, that in the short space of two hours 
the author caught twelve dozen trout, with 
one and the same artificial fly. During our 
stay at the river, however, the mosquitos 

had 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 145 

had made such havoc upon us, that our 
heads were swelled to an enormous size 
before we regained Xht Fishery ; and it was 
many days before the marks of their stings 
entirely disappeared. 

Whitbourne, consistently with his usual 
propensity to represent every thing relating 
to Newfoundland and its vicinity in as 
favourable a light as possible, has discussed 
the subject of the mosquitos in a very face- 
tious manner. Instead of justly repre- 
senting them as a continual torment during 
the heat of summer, he says, '^ Those Flies 
'^ see me to haue a great power and authority 
** vpon all loytering people that come to the 
^^ New-found-land : for they haue this pro-- 
*^ perty, thai when they Jinde any such lying 
^^ lazily y or sleeping in the Woods ^ they %mll 
^'presently bee more nimble to seize on them, 
'^ than any Sargeant will bee to arrest a man 
^' for debt: Neither will they leaue stinging or 

L ^^ sucking 



146 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

*' sucking out the blood of such sluggards, 
*^ vntill, like a Beadle, they bring him to his 
'^ jMaster, where hee should labour: in which 
'^ iime of loytering, those Flies will so brand 
^^ such idle persons in their faces ^ that they 
'^ may be known from others, as the Turkes doe 
^^ their slaues,^*' 

* Conclusion to Whithournes Discourse and Discovery of 
Newjoundland. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 14/ 



CHAP. VL 



FROM L'ANSE A LOUP TO PORT SANDERS. 

Return of the Rosamond — Cruize — Bonne Bay — Anchor 
at L'Anse a Loup — Mosses — Sail from L'Anse a Loup 

— Ice Bergs — Belle-isle — Cape Charles — Salmon 
Fishery — Cape Chateau — Geological Observations 
— Extraordinary Currents — Chace — Anchor at L'Anse 
a Loup — Sail from thence — Anchor at Port Sanders. 

W iTHiN a fortnight from the time of her 
departure, the Rosamond again returned to 
L'Anse a Loup ; but the Captain intending 
to take a short cruize in the Gulf of St, 
Lawrence, did. not anchor in the bay. A 
boat was sent for the author ; who there- 
upon rejoined his ship, and immediately 
she made sail f^owards the ivest^ 

L 2 For 



148 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

For about a week after this, nothijig 
occurred worthy of notice, until we steered 
in towards the ivestern coast of Newfound^ 
land. In the morning, we came in sight of 
the Bloiv-me^doivyi Hills, a ridge of very 
high mountains in the vicinity of the Seven 
Islands. The following day we attempted 
to approach Bonne Bay ; but were suddenly 
compelled to reduce our canvas to a main- 
top-sail and foresail, as the wind blew in 
tremendous squalls from the land. Bonne 
Bay is surrounded by immense perpendi- 
cular rocks, rising to a great height from 
the sea ; and these lofty mountains have in 
various places been entirely split to their 
foundations, as if by some violent convul- 
sion of Nature. The wind rashes through 
the chasms so violently, that the approach to 
the bay is thereby rendered difficult and 
dangerous. 

We were compelled to b^aul off to sea- 
ward 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 149 

ward at night-fall, to avoid the sudden 
squalls from the high land ; and the wind 
continuing foul in the morning, we gave up 
the intention of entering Bonne Bay, and 
merely despatched a boat thither, to com- 
municate with the inhabitants. 

Bonne Bay, in addition to the disadvan- 
tages already noticed, is by no means a safe 
anchorage for vessels of more than fifty or 
sixty tons burden; as the beach is so steep^ 
that there are twenty-two fathoms water 
within two cables' length of the shore, and 
beyond this distance the depth increases to 
sixty fathoms. About thirty inhabitants* 
are settled in this bay; but the fishing 
establishments are not upon a very exten- 
sive footing. - 

Towards 

* The whole of the calculations made In this work, respecting 
the numler of Settlers in the different bays and harbours, 
is meant to apply solely to \\\e summer residents; as the greater 
part of the fishermen pass their winters either in St. Johns, 
Guernsey^, Jersey, or England. 



150 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Towards evening, the pinnace returned 
on board, with the pleasing intelligence, 
that a British frigate had arrived in L'Anse 
h Loup since our departure from thence. 
In an instant, every sail was set ; and two 
days afterwards we again entered our old 
rendezvous, where we found at anchor His 
Majesty's ship Hyperion, Captain Cumby*, 

Our hopes had been much excited, under 
the idea that this ship was intended to 
relieve us from so unpleasant and dreary a 
station : consequently, our disappointment 
was great on finding that she had merely 
brought a supply of provisions, with an 

order 

* Captain Cumly was First Lieutenant of the Bellerophon 
in the memorable battle of Trafalgar. After the death of 
her gallant Captain, Lieutenant Cumhy continued to fight the 
. ship with steady and determined bravery, which gained him 
an immediate promotion to the rank of Post Captain. It is 
a mere act of justice to this gentleman to add, that there is 
not a better officer in the navy, nor one who is more univer- 
sally beloved by his inferiors. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 151 

order for the Rosamond to remain on the 
coast of Labrador until the end of October, 

The Hyperion remained at LAnse a Loup 
about two days ; and during this time the 
author had the gratification of examining a 
most curious cabinet, containing nearly 
two hundred beautiful specimens of the 
various mosses of Labrador, They had 
been collected with great care by the intel- 
ligent Surgeon of the Hyperion: and should 
he ever be prevailed upon to give a full 
description of his cabinet to the world, 
such a work would prove a valuable addi- 
tion to the natural history of these iVbrf/?e;7i 
regions. 

A few days after the departure of the 
Hyperion, yve again sailed from UAyise a 
Loitp, and bent our course towards Belle- 
isle, Although now the middle of sum- 
mer, yet the Ice-bergs were still very 

numerous 



152 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

numerous in the Straits; and their beau- 
tiful masses presented the most grotesque 
and extraordinary shapes. The outlines 
exhibited in the annexed plate were 
sketched by the author on the tenth day 
of August, when twenty-seven mountains 
of a similar description were visible from 
the quarter-deck of the Rosamond, 

Some of those towering masses of Ice 
were aground, in forty fathoms water ; so 
that, if the opinion be correct, which sup- 
poses them to swim with two thirds of their 
body immersed, their perpendicular height 
might be computed at one hundred and 
twenty feet above the surface of the sea. 
However, as a proof that no general rule 
can be accurately laid down on this subject, 
it will only be necessary to mention the 
following experiments. 

We sawed a large lump of Ice into n 

perfect 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 153 

perfect cube, and marked its sides with a 
scale of inches; then dropping it gently 
into a tub of sea- water, we were rather 
surprised to observe that it floated with 
exactly lialf its body immersed! Being 
determined to ascertain this point beyond 
the possibility of a doubt, we again selected 
another mass of Ice, upon which \\^e per- 
formed precisely the same operation, and 
found that this last swam only onejifth of 
the cube above the surface of the water. 
This variety in the weight of Ice we found 
to originate in its different states of poro- 
sity ; the most compact masses sinking, of 
course, deeper whilst in a floating state. It 
appeared, therefore, that although many 
detached masses of Ice may float with two 
thirds of their bulk immersed/ yet the 
safest calculation will always estimate the 
apparent height of the largest Ice-bergs as 
about equal to their depth : so that those 
which we observed aground in forty 

fathoms 



154 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

fathoms water must have been about two 
hundred and forty feet in perpendicular 
height, above the surface of the sea. 

There is, probably, no subject less gene- 
rally understood by nautical men, than that 
part of their duty which relates to the 
management of a ship in Icy seas. The 
system of manoeuvring to be pursued, in 
cases of this nature, is totally unlike any 
other method that can possibly fall under the 
common experience of a seaman. In forming 
an idea of the appearance exhibited by the 
overturn of an Ice-berg y the reader need 
only imagine the effect that would be pro- 
duced, were a huge mountain to be torn 
violently from its foundation, and precipi- 
tated into the ocean. But the mariner is 
subjected to less danger from the reeling of 
these lofty masses, than from the risk of 
bilging his vessel on the low drift-ice, which 
has been so repeatedly noticed in different 

parts 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 155 

parts of this volume. A sea, covered v^dth 
broken fragments of Ice, closely wedged 
together, and extending as far as the eye 
can reach, presents an intimidating and, 
apparently, an insurmountable obstacle to 
persons who are unacquainted with such 
situations. The immortal Cook, whose abi- 
lities as a seaman can never be surpassed, 
was yet ignorant of this peculiar tactic: 
nor is it to be wondered at, for this is not 
to be acquired by any theoretical instruction, 
but must be entirely the result of much 
practical knowledge. To the total inexpe- 
rience of CooJc, in this respect, his failure, 
in the chief object of his voyage, may be 
attributed. When he first attempted to 
penetrate the frozen sea round the North of 
America, in the year 1778, he found a vast 
glut of drift-ice, blocking up the passage off 
the Icy Cape, A commander better skilled 
in the art of Icy navigation would have 
instantly pushed his ship into the midst of 

this 



156 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

this accumulated mass, and endeavoured to 
force his way through it, in spite of all 
impediments : but, to effect this, it would 
be necessary, for insuring the safety of the 
vessel, that she should be conducted by 
some able Ice Pilot. Instead of adopting 
this method, Cook wasted a considerable time 
in vain endeavours to circumnamgate the ice : 
nor did he even confine his exertions to the 
doubling one continent; but, being deceived 
by the continual shifting of the Ice, he 
frequently wavered in his opinion, sailing 
backwards and forwards across Beering's 
Straits ; at one time intent on passing round 
the coast of America into Baffin s Bay ; at 
another, determining to force his way 
along the north- eastern shores of Asia, 
towards the river Oby and the White Sea. 

Cook did not live to make a second trial : 
and his successor, Clerke, was not better 
qudified to pursue the enterprise. If, 

therefore, 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 157 

therefore, those mariners did not succeed 
in discovering the iiorth-zvest or north-east 
passages between the Atlantic and Pacific 
Oceans, might not their failure be rather 
ascribed to the inexperience of the Com- 
manders, in what may be called Polar 
tactics, than to the alleged impracticability 
of the undertaking ? 

Two days after our departure from 
UAnse a Loup, we came in sight of Belle- 
isle, a high and barren island, lying in the 
midway between Newfoundland and La- 
brador. Several tremendous Ice-bergs had 
grounded beneath its craggy precipices, and 
formed a striking contrast with the black 
cliffs behind them. The waves of the 
Atlantic dashed, in furious foam, against 
its rocks; and Nature appeared to exert 
unusual efforts to preserve the place from 
riolation of human footsteps. Neither 
European nor Indian has ever attempted to 

settle 



158 VOYAGE TO KEWFOUNDLAND 

settle upon this desolate spot ; and having 
no inducement to visit its shores, we turned 
our ship's head towards the north. In the 
afternoon, we reached Cape Charles, the 
south' eastern extremity of the Labrador 
Peninsula. 

Cape Charles is in latitude 54°. 13'. n. 
and longitude 55°. 3o'. w. of Greenwich, 
The promontory is rendered remarkable, in 
consequence of its being the easternmost 
projection of North America, and the point 
from whence the breadth of that vast con- 
tinent must be determined. A string of 
small islets lay oiFits extremity, extending, 
in a ridge, towards Belle-isle ; and these 
are frequently mistaken for the Cape itself. 
They form the shelter of a small fishing 
settlement, called Cape Charles Harbour; 
whither we despatched our boat, with an 
officer, to collect the boat-duty before 
mentioned. Whilst we were lying^to, 

awaiting 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 159 

awaiting the return of the boat, a schooner 
bore down along the eastern side of 
Labrador, to which we gave chace. She 
proved, on examination, to be a vessel 
belonging to Mr. Pinson, of L Arise ct Loup, 
returning from Sandwich Bay, where that 
gentleman possessed a fishery yielding 
annually two hundred tierces of salmon. 
These fish are caught without much diffi- 
culty, by means of a net extended quite 
across the river, into which the salmon run 
thei heads, when going up the stream to 
deposit their spawn. Great care is taken 
by the fishermen to keep the net free from 
weeds or obstructions of any kind. When 
caught, the salmon is split or opened 
down the back ; then salted in tubs, where 
it remains for the space of a fortnight, 
with large masses of stone on the top, to 
keep the fish beneath the surface of the 
pickle. At the expiration of that time, it 
is re-salted into tierces^ which contain each 

two 



160 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

two hundred pounds of fish, exclusive of 
pickle and salt. The Mediterranean ports 
are the greatest mart for the sale of salted 
salmon, and the average price is from sixty 
to seventy shillings per tierce. 

A few years ago, when \he fisheries were 
unusually depressed, there was a bounty of 
three shillings per quintal allowed* on all 
pickled or salted salmon, or dried co^-fish, 
imported into any of the ports of Great 
Britain, Guernsey, or Jersey, This act, 
however, has since been repealed by 
Parliament. 

When our boat returned, we hoisted her 
on board, and made sail back again, 
towards Chateau Bay and Pitfs Harbour ; 
and we arrived there the next morning by 
day-light. 

Cape Chateau, lying off the entrance of 

a bay 

* Act 47 Geo. III. chap. 24<. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 16\' 

a bay bearing the same name, is so called 
from the remarkable resemblance which it 
bears to an antient castle. Its turrets, arches, 
loop-holes, and keeps, are beautifully re- 
presented by a series of basaltic columns. 
The author could only regret his inability 
to delineate this singular head-land ; for it 
certainly presented as fine a subject for the 
pencil of an artist, as the celebrated Cave 
of Fingaly or the no less noted Gianfs 
Causeiuay in Ireland. 

In addition to these basaltic ^hd^novatm,, 
the shores of Labrador abound with thin, 
pellucid, shining laminse, of a talc-Yike 
substance, which are probably fragments 
of mica. Of these the author collected a 
few specimens, and brought them with him 
to England, 

The famous Larrador feldspar is now 

well known among mineralogists. It will, 

M therefore. 



162 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

therefore, only be necessary to observe, 
that this stone is not found near the 
European settlements on the southern parts 
of the peninsula, but is generally met 
with in the vicinity of the Moravian Mis- 
sionary habitations to the northward of 
Sandwich Bay. 

Pitfs Harbour is a deep gulf, surrounded 
by the loftiest mountains, which render it 
liable to violent gusts and squalls of wind. 
A single rock, lying midway between the 
two sides of the port, presents the only 
danger of any consequence, in entering 
the place. 

At Henley Harbour, near Chateau Bay, 
there are a few small establishments for 
carrying on the cod-fishery in summer; but 
few, if any, of the Europeans remain there 
during the winter : at the close of the 
season they return to St. John s. 

After 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 163 

After collecting the tax, we sailed from 
hence, on our return to VAnse a Loup, 
During the night, we were much annoyed 
by the continual interruption of Ice-bergs ; 
and towards morning, believing that we 
were near the entrance of our destined 
port, we lay to, to wait for day-break. 
Tliis had nearly proved the destruction of 
the Rosamond ; for at the earliest dawn 
we perceived the rocks off the western 
point of Forteau, within a very short 
distance a-head. We immediately tacked 
about, and in the forenoon anchored in 
Forteau Bay. 

Upon trying the current, in a boat, we 
Vv'ere surprised to find that it ran, in one 
place, three miles an hour towards the 
west; and, in another, two miles in an 
easterly direction. Indeed, the uncertainty 
and velocity of the currents in the Straits 
of Belle-isle render the channel very 
M 2 unsafe 



164 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

unsafe for nightly navigation : and, from 
this time forward, we generally preferred 
anchoring every evening, to avoid running 
any further risk of being shipwrecked in 
the dark. There is good anchorage all over 
the Straits, in about thirty or forty fathoms 
water. 

Whilst we remained at Forteau, and 
were busily employed, completing our 
stock of water, a warlike ship appeared in 
the Straits, sailing away eastward, towards 
the Atlantic, Our Captain suspecting her 
to be the Hornet, an American sloop of war, 
we immediately weighed anchor, and gave 
chase, crowding every stitch of canvas, 
and running ten miles an hour, with our 
royals set. In six hours we had approached 
near enough to distinguish that the sup- 
posed American was not a vessel of war, 
but, most probably, a heavy-laden timber- 
ship from Quebec, bound to some port in 

Scotland. 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 165 

Scotland. As evening drew on, we came 
close up with Belle-isle; and the wind at 
that moment taking us flat aback, in a 
contrary direction, we gave up the pursuit, 
and returned to the luestward again, as 
speedily as we had sailed away. The next 
morning the Rosamond anchored at LAme 
a Loup; and the fishermen of that place 
expressed their astonishment at our having 
sailed eighty miles to the eastward, and 
returned over the same ground, in the 
short space of seventeen hours. 

After remaining for a short time at our 
old quarters, we again quitted L'Anse t 
Loup, and proceeded to Port Saunders, a 
noble harbour, forming one arm of Ingor- 
nachoix Bay, on the north-west coast of 
Newfoundland. 



166 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 



CHAP. VII 



PORT SAUNDERS. 

IngornachoixBa?/ — Por^ Saunders — Solitude of the Forests 
— Red Indians of Newfoundland^ the Aborigines 
of the Country — Attempts to civilize the Red Indians. 

According to the accurate surveys of the 
immortal circumnavigator Cook*, the en- 
trance to the great bay of Ingornachoix lies 
in latitude 50^ 38'n. and longitude 5 7^ 2& w. 
of Greenwich. Although totally uninha- 
bited, this is nevertheless one of the noblest 
harbours in the v^orld. The entrance is 



* " In Jprit 1764, Captain James Cook was appointed 

Marine=surveyor of Newfoundland and Labrador 3 and of the 
satisfactory manner in which he executed this officcj the Charts 
which he afterwards published afford ample evidence." — Cow- 
tinuation of Campbell's Naval Hlsiorj of Great Britain, vol. 

IV. p. 272. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 16? 

narrow, but without danger of any kind. 
After passing the channel, the port branches 
off into two separate arms or divisions ; 
but that on the left hand, called Port 
Saunders, is best calculated for the reception 
of large vessels, in consequence of its supe- 
rior depth of water. It is not, however, 
prudent to sail too far, before bringing to an 
anchor ; as there is a solitary rock lying in 
the centre of the harbour, about equi- 
distant between the entrance and the head 
o{ the port. Ninety or a hundred sail of 
shipping might here lie sheltered from 
every wind. The tides rise and fall about 
ten feet ; and it is high water at the ful[ 
and change of the moon precisely at one 
o'clock. The anchorage is completely land- 
locked by high hills, covered with an abun- 
dance of excellent fire- wood; and there 
are many limpid streams of the purest fresh 
water. 

JVild- 



l€8 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Wild- ducks and geese abound in the nu- 
merous marshes and ponds of the interior ; 
and in the marshes, by the sea-side, there 
grows an inexhaustible quantity of berries, 
which are delicious when made into pud- 
dings or tarts. In addition to this, the 
shores are covered with muscles, limpets, 
and lobsters: the latter fish lay in holes 
among the weeds, a few feet beneath low- 
water-mark ; so that, when the tide is out, 
they may be hooked-up by hundreds. 

It is one of the most surprising and un- 
accountable circumstances attending the 
history of the cod-fish, that although found 
in myriads around all the other coasts of 
Newfoundland, yet it is never known to 
visit the north-western parts of the island. 
It is owing to this circumstance that Ingor^ 
nachoix Bay has never been inhabited by 
Europeans, except it be now and then by a 
few stragglers, w^ho go thither to catch 

salmon 



AND THE. COAST OF LABRADOR. 169 

salmon or rein-deer. Our officers went 
several times, upon shooting excursions, 
through whole forests, rotting with age; 
where the silence of nature was only in- 
terrupted by the echo of their own foot- 
steps, or the accidental faUing of branches 
that crumbled into dust as they advanced. 

We erected a signal-post, as usual, to 
give timely notice of the appearance of any 
strange vessel : and as the Rosamond lay at 
Port Saunders for a length of time, to bi 
painted and refitted, a description of the 
original inhabitants of Newfoundland may 
be here introduced: this extraordinarv 
people constituting a peculiar race, distinct 
from the Micmacs, the Mountaineers, and 
the Esquimaux, They are called Red 
Indians. 

The Red Indians, or Aborigines of New- 
foundland, are now so very rarely to be met 

with, 



170 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

with, that their genuine character is perhaps 
only to be deduced from the accounts 
which were published respecting them by 
the first persons who visited this country. 
IVhitbounw, in his Discovrse and Discovery 
of Newfoundland, says, *' The naturall In- 
'' habitants of the Countrey, as they are but 
** few in number; so are they something 
*' rude and sauage people; hauing neither 
** knowledge of God, nor lining vnder any 
'* kinde of ciuill gouernement. In their 
*' habits, customes, and manners, they re- 
*' semble the Indians of the Continent, from 
'' whence (I suppose) thej^ come ; they liue 
'* altogether in the North and West part of 
" the CountrcYj which is seldome frequented 
*' by the English: But the French and Big- 
'' caines (who resort thither yeerely for the 
" Whale-fishing, and also for the Cod-fish) 
'* report them to be an ingenious and trac- 
*' table people (being well vsed:) they are 
'' ready to assist them with great labour 

" and 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. l/l 

'' and patience, in the killing, cutting and 
'^ boyling of Whales ; and making the 
'' Traineoyle, without expectation of other 
'' reward, than a little bread, or some such 
" small hire*." 

In another part of Whitbournes account, 
he accuses the Red hidians of dishonesty: 

'' Many of them secretly euery yeere, 
'' come into Trinity Bay and Harbour, in 
'' the night-time, purposely to steale Sailes, 
*' Lines, Hatchets, Hookes, Kniues, and 
'' such like.t" 

But still the same author was of opinion, 
that by gentle treatment and a conciliatory 
policy, the Natives might have been civi- 
lized, and even brought over to the Chris- 
tian faith. 

'' And 

♦ 1Vhithourne% Digcovrge and Discovery of Neufoundland, 
page 2. 

f Ibid. p. 4. 



172 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

'^ And this Bay (Flowers) is not three 
** English miles ouer land from Trinity Bay 
" in some places ; which people, if they 
'' might be reduced to the knowledge of 
'' the true Trinity indeed, no doubt but it 
'^ would be a most sweete and acceptable 

*' sacrifice to God, The taske thereof 

'' would proue easie, if it were but well 
'' begun, and constantly seconded by indus- 
*^ trious spirits: and no doubt but God 
*' himselfe would set his hand to reare vp 
'^ and aduance so noble, so pious, and so 
'' Christian a building.*'* 

In another part, he recommends that a 
settlement should be made in Trepassy Bay, 
'^ by reason those sauage people are so 
'^ neere ; who being politikely and gently 
'^ handled, much good might bee wrought 
'' vpon them: for I haue had appareiit 

'^ proofes 

* IFhiibourncs Discovrse and Discover^' of Newfoundland, 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 173 

^* proofes of their ingenuous and subtile 
*' dispositions, and that they are a people 
'' full of quicke and liuly apprehensions.-jr" 

A set of ignorant and barbarous fisher- 
men were not capable of profiting by this 
advice, nor of foreseeing the result of an 
opposite line of conduct. Accordingly we 
find, that even during Whitbournes life- 
time, they had already begun to plunder 
and misuse the Natives, To prove this, 
the author is compelled to make rather a 
copious extract; but as it throws considera- 
ble light on the state in which the original 
inhabitants of Newfoundland were found, 
by the earliest visitors of the country, it 
may probably not be vrithout its value, in 
the estimation of the curious reader. 

'^ Now it may be well vnderstood, there 

" is 

-j- Ibid, page 5. 



1/4 VOYAGE TO ^NEWFOUNDLAND 

'* is great hope that those parts of the 
*' world will yeeld seuerall commodities of 
*' exceeding worth, whereon diners good 
** implojments may bee made for great 
*^ numbers of his Maiesties Subjects. For 
'^ it is well knowne, that the Natiues of 
" those parts haue great store of red Okar, 
^^ wherewith they vse to colour their bodies, 
'' Bowes, Arrowes and Cannowes, in a 
'' painting manner ; which Cannowes are 
*' their Boats, that they vse to go to Sea in, 
^' which are built in shape like the Wher- 
'' ries on the Riuer of Thames, with small 
*' timbers, no thicker nor broader than 
'* hoopes ; and instead of boords, they vse 
" the barkes of Birch trees, which they 
'* sew very artificially and close together, 
'^ and then oiierlay the seames with Tur- 
'* pentine, as Pitch is vsed on the seames of 
'^ Ships, and Boats : And in like manner 
^^ they vse to sew the barkes of Spruise and 
** Firre trees, round and deepe in proportion, 

^Mike 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 1/5 

'' like a Brasse Kettle, to boyle their 
'' meat in, as it hath been well approoued 
** by diuers men ; but most especially to 
^' my certaine knowledge, by three Mari- 
*' ners of a Ship of Tap son, in the County 
'' oi Deuon ; which Ship riding there at 
** Anchor neere by mee, at the Harbour 
*' called Hearts-ease, on the North side of 
'* Trinity Bay, and being robbed in the 
*^ night, by the Saiiages, of their apparell, 
'' and diuers other prouisions, did the next 
*' day seeke after them, and happened to 
'^ come suddenly where they had set vp 
*^ three Tents, and were feasting, hauing 
'' three such Cannowes by them, and three 
** Pots made of such rinds of trees, standing 
*' each of them on three stones, boyling, 
*' with twelue Fowles in each of them, 
'^ euery Fovvle as big as a widgeon, and 
*' some so big as a Ducke : they had also 
'^ many such Pots so sewed, and fashioned 
''like leather Buckets, that are vsed for 

** quenching 



176 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

*' quenching of fire, and those were full of 
*' the yolkes of Egges, that they had taken 
*■' and boyled hard, and so dryed small as it 
'' had been powder- Sugar, which the 
*' Sauages vsed in their Broth, as Sugar is 
^' often vsed in some meates. They had 
^' great store of the skins of Deere, Beauers, 
'' Beares, Scales, Otters, and diuers other 
" fine skins, which were excellent well 
" dressed; as also great store of seuerall 
" sorts of flesh dryed, and by shooting off 
**a Musquet towards them, they all ran 
*' away naked, without any apparell, but 
*' onely some of them had their hats on 
*' their heads, which were made of Scale 
'' skinnes, in fashion like our hats, sewed 
'* handsomely, with narrow bands about 
*^ them, set round with fine white shels. 
*' All their three Cannowes, their flesh, 
'^ skins, yolkes of Egges, Targets, Bowes 
*^ and Arrowes, and much fine Okar, and 
*' diuers other things they iooke and brought 

'' atuay 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 1 7/ 

'^ away, and shared it among those that 
" tooke it ; and tliey brought to mee the best 
^^ Cannow, Bowes and Arrowes, and diuers 
^^ of their skins, and many other artificiall 
^^ things worth the noting, which may seeme 
^^ much to inuite vs to indeuour to finde 
'^ out some other good trades with them.*" 

From the foregoing it is evident, that 
notwithstanding all he had said respecting 
the propriety of treating the Red Indians 
with gentleness, yet Captain Whitbourne 
hesitated not to become an accessory to 
their persecution. For if he were not 
actually present, when the inhuman mari- 
ners deprived the timorous Natives of their 
food, raim.ent, furniture, and utensils ; he 
has expressed no repugnance against that 
cruel proceeding; nor does he appear to 

have 



* Conclusion to JVhitlournes Discourse and Discovery of 
ISlewfoundland, 



178 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

have felt any reluctance towards accepting 
^' the best Cannow, Bowes andArrowes,'" &c. 
Still it is singular, that he should have 
related this atrocious circumstance ; as a 
moment's reflection must have taught 
him, that Posterity would inevitably judge 
*' the Receiver, to be as guilty as the 
- Thief." 

From this time forward, Europeans were 
accustomed to treat the Red Indians with 
great cruelty, by shooting at, and hunting 
them from their peaceful habitations. It 
has been pretended, that they were induced 
to adopt this line of conduct, in the first 
instance, in consequence of some manifest 
disposition to violence and dishonesty, on 
the part of the Natives. Conciliatory 
measures might not have been attended 
with success in the beginning of their 
intercourse ; yet a persevering system 
of benevolence, kindness, and good-will, 

would 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 179 

would not have failed, in the end, to im- 
press the wild inhabitants with a favour- 
able opinion of their new acquaintance. 
At all events, no provocation whatso- 
ever can justify the more enlightened 
European, in the manifestation of a fero- 
cious barbarity, that would disgrace the 
most ignorant and blood-thirsty Indian. 

Such a reprehensible system was fol- 
lowed by its usual consequences. The 
Natives imbibed an implacable and eternal 
enmity against their inhuman visitors. Re- 
tiring into the interior of the island, they 
have since seized every opportunity of at- 
tacking and destroying Europeans, Their 
hatred of the ^' white people,'' contracted so 
long ago, still continues unabated. It appears 
to be the most sacred bequest that a dying 
Indian makes to his children : this hatred, 
universally cherished among them, is care-^ 

N 2 , fully 



180 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

fully transmitted from father to son, through- 
out their generations^. 

Whitbourne has said, that the French and 
Biscayans found the Red Indians to be of 
a mild and tractable disposition. If this 
be true, their character has evidently been 
altered for the w^orse, by their short 
intercourse with the original settlers in 
Newfoundland. At present, they bear a 
strong resemblance in their manners to 
the treacherous BoshmenSf inhabiting the 
Southern parts of Africa, The Red Indians 
study the art of concealment so effectually, 
that, although often heard, they are seldom 
seen. An old fisherman of St, Georges 
Bay informed us, that himself and a few 

others 

* *' No duration can put an end to their (the Indians^) 
" revenge : it is often a legacy transferred from generation to 
" generation, and left as a bequest from father to son, until an 
" opportunity offers of taking ample satisfaction."— ^jr/rac^ 
from Major Rogers's Account of North America, 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 181 

Others had once approached a party of 
this people, near enough to distinguish 
their voices ; but upon hastening to the 
spot whence the sounds proceeded, the 
Natives were gone, their fire extinguished, 
the embers scattered in the woods, and 
dry leaves strewed over the ashes ! The 
Red Indians are not a numerous race of 
people; and they are rarely to be observed, 
excepting in the North, North-eastern, and 
North-ivestern parts of Newfoundland. 
They inhabit chiefly the interior of the 
country, in the vicinity of Fogo, TwiUingate, 
and White Bay. Sometimes, however, they 
make excursions towards the maritime parts, 
for purposes of murder and pillage ; and 
upon such occasions they are wonderfully 
expert in concealing their tracks from pur- 
suit. Fortunately for the European settlers, 
they have not acquired the use of fire-arms, 
and will never approach near to any person 
who is armed with a musket. 

Many 



182 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Many attempts have been recently made 
to open a friendly intercourse with the iras- 
cible Red Indians of Newfoundland ; and 
the Government lately offered a reward of 
fifty pounds to any person who should 
bring one of them alive to St, Johns, At 
length, a fisherman contrived to seize a young 
female, who was paddling in her canoe to 
procure birds' eggs from an islet at a short 
distance from the main land. This woman 
was immediately conveyed to the capital, 
the fisherman received his reward, and the 
captive was treated with great humanity, 
kindness, and attention. The principal 
merchants and ladies of St. Johns vied 
with each other in cultivating her good 
graces ; and presents poured in upon her 
from all quarters. She seemed to be tole- 
rably contented with her situation, when 
surrounded by a company of female visitors ; 
but became outrageous if any man ap- 
proached, excepting the person who 

deprived 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 183 

deprived her of her liberty : to him she was 
ever gentle and affectionate. Her body and 
hair were stained of a red colour; as it is 
supposed, by juice extracted from the alder- 
tree : and from the custom of dyeing the 
skin and hair, the nation has acquired the 
appellation of Red Indians *. 

When this singular female had remained 
long enough at St, Johns to be made per- 
fectly sensible of the kindness and good 
intentions of the EiiropeanSy the fisherman 
who brought her thither was desired to 
re-conduct her to the spot whence he had 

formerly 

* Both antlent and savage nations have manifested this 
propensity to paint or dye their persons. The image of 
jMpi^<?r . preserved in the Capitol at Rome was painted with 
minium ; and a Roman Emperor, wishing to assume a godlike 
aspect, when entering the city in triumph, ornamented his 
skin in imitation of the God. The image of the Sphinx in 
Egypt is painted red. The antient Britons painted their 
bodies of various colours ; and Captain Cook relates, that the 
natives of Fan Die men's Land had their hair and beards 
anointed with a red ointment. 



184 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUIS^DLAND 

formerly dragged her away. The sequel of 
the story is so horrid, that it would scarcely 
have been credited, had not the author 
received it upon the testimony of many 
respectable persons in different parts of 
Newfoundland ; so that he was finally 
induced, however unwillingly, to give it 
his full and entire belief The villain who 
had deprived this poor savage of her rela- 
tions, her friends, and her liberty, con- 
ceived, and actually carried into execution, 
the diabolical scheme of murdering her on 
her voyage back, in order to possess himself 
of the baubles which had been presented 
to her by the inhabitants of St, John's, 
By this barbarous act, the assassin obtained 
articles to the value nearly of a hundred 
pounds ; and it is said, that he has since 
retired to Hugland, to enjoy the plunder of 
his unfortunate victim. The sufferings of 
the damned are hardly less enviable than 
such enjoyment ! 

Some 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 185 

Some time after this event took place, 
Lieutenant Euclian, commanding his Ma- 
jesty's schooner Adonis, was ordered to 
pass a winter at the river of Exploits, in 
the nortli-east part of Newfoundlaxd ; for 
the express purpose of opening a friendly 
intercourse with the Red Indians, This 
officer succeeded in obtaining an interview 
with one of their tribes ; and from their 
peaceable deportment, he was induced to 
leave two of his marines in their company; 
at the same time takino; two of the Indians 
on board with him, as hostages for their 
countrymen's good faith. A trivial cir- 
cumstance delayed the return of the Lieu- 
tenant beyond the time he had promised; 
and the natives were so much incensed at 
his supposed treachery, that they chopped 
off the heads of the two Englishnen in their 
possession, and retired into the Vv^oods 
whence they came. The Indian hostap-es 
were re-accompanied to the shore by 

Lieutenant 



186 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Lieutenant Buchan ; but they had sufficient 
cunning to guess how matters must have gone 
on during their absence; immediately, there- 
fore, upon being landed, they made their 
escape into the forest, to join in the general 
exultation of their tribe at this massacre of 
two detested Whites, On searching near 
the place, where the unfortunate marines 
had been left, their ghastly heads were 
found lying on the moss ; but the Indiajis 
had carried oflf the bodies. 

Thus ended fatally the only intercourse 
that Lieutenant Buchan, with much fatigue 
and trouble, had been able to obtain ; and 
every prospect of a reconciliation with the 
Med Indians appears now to be entirely at 
an end. Such an event is, however, much 
hoped for, by many ; because, although 
the Natives are not numerous, yet they 
are sufficiently formidable to keep the 

northern 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 187 

northern settlers in continual apprehension 
and fear*. 

* The author humbly presumes that he has redeemed his 
pledge, given in Chap. II. p.5l -, and that he has convinced 
the reader of the falsity of the Ahbe UaynaVs assertion, that 
" No savages have ever been seen there (Newfoundland) , 
** except some Esquimaux who come over from the continent 
"in the hunting season!" — Hist, of the East and West Indies, 
Fo/. VII. Book XVII. p. 191. 



CHAP. 



188 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 



CHAR VIIL 



FROM PORT SAUNDERS TO ST. JOHN'S. 

Sail from Port Saunders — Anchor at L'Anse a Loup— 
Account of an Esquimaux Trihe — Horrid Sacrifice — 
Story of a Canadian Ladij — Seal fishery — Final 
departure from Labrador — Nautical observations — 
Mount loli — Anticosti — Anchor at St. John's. 

We had not been more than ten days in 
Port Saunders, when our watch at the signal- 
post gave notice, that a strange vessel 
approached the coast. We immediately 
weighed anchor, and sailed out of the har- 
bour ; when the stranger appeared under a 
press of sail, steering in towards the port. 
The Rosamond being a brisk sailer, soon 
overtook the other ship ; but our hopes of 
a prize were greatly disappointed; the 

stranger 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 189 

stranger proving to be merely a Scotch 
timber-ship from Quebec, It was now so 
dark, that we could not venture to re-enter 
the snug port that we had quitted ; and the 
Rosamond therefore lay at anchor all night 
in the bay, outside of the harbour; w^hich 
affords a tolerable safe anchorage. in fine 
w^eather. 

At the earliest dawn of day, we weighed 
anchor, and passed round Cape Rich. 
Towards night-fall, we again came to an 
anchor in the bay of UAnse h Loup. 

There are many good harbours in the 
north-tvest parts of Newfoundland ; such 
as, Bay S^. Barhes, St, Margaret's Bay, Old 
FerroUe, Port aux Choix, and tliQ Ingorna- 
choix Bay, already described ; but there are 
no fisheries established in either of those 
places, owing to the scarcity of cod on the 
coast. 

A tribe 



190 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

A tribe of Esquimaux Indians had been at 
UAnse a Loup since the departure of the 
Rosamond. They had encamped within 
half a mile of Mr. Pinsons house, and 
there were in all about fifty of them. 
During their stay in that place, some of the 
fishermen were present at the funeral of an 
Indian woman ; when, shocking to relate, 
the savages stoned her female infant to 
deathy and interred it in the same grave 
with its deceased mother. This horrid fact 
was attested in the most solemn and con- 
vincing manner, by at least twenty people 
who had witnessed the transaction. The 
Europeans who were present endeavoured, 
by the most earnest supplications, to save 
the life of the innocent babe; but the 
Indians laughed at their scruples, and pro- 
ceeded in their brutal sacrifice with shouts 
of demoniac merriment. 

It has been a custom of many barbarous 

natious 



AND THE COAST OP LABRABOB.. 19l 

nations to destroy their children, under 
peculiar circumstances. Robertson has 
treated this matter at large, in his History of 
America, *' When twins are born, one of 
" them commonly is abandoned, because 
" the mother is not equal to the task of 
*' rearing both. When a mother dies while 
** she is nursing a child, all hope of pre- 
'^ serving its life fails, and it is buried toge- 
'^ ther with her in the same grave* '' The 
natives of Labrador are not totally defi- 
cient in affection towards their offspring; 
but it is impossible for a widower to rear a 
sucking infant himself; and no female 
belonging to the tribe can undertake the 
charge of a supernumerary child. This 
difficulty first induced the custom of de- 
stroying them ; and the practice, however 
shocking it may appear, is not wholly un- 
precedented in the history of more oriental 
nations. Deformed children were exposed 

to 

HohertsorC9 m^iOYy oi America^ Vol. II. p. 41. Book i v. 



192 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

to the fury of wild beasts by some of the 
antient Grecians; and a Lacedcernonian 
mother hesitated not to sacrifice her own 
son, if, by any symptom of cowardice, he 
was known to have disgraced his country. 

We were much surprised, on visiting our 
good friend Mr. Pinson, to find a handsome 
female seated at the head of his table. The 
sight of a white woman was now a real 
gratification to us all ; and our officers 
were anxiously desirous to discover by 
what means she had been thrown upon 
the savage territory of Labrador. As the 
story of this lady's misfortunes reflected 
additional credit on the philanthropic cha- 
racter of the worthy merchant, and gave 
us a faint notion of the inclemency of a 
Newfoundland winter, perhaps the inser- 
tion of it in this place will not be deemed 
reprehensible by the reader. 

The 



AXI) THS COAtT or LABRAPOH. 193 

The daughter of a respectable Canadian 
had married early in life to a Mr. £.,.., 
the master of an English Quebec trading- 
yessel. In the beginning of December 
1812, the ship of her husband quitted the 
country in which she was born, on its 
return with a cargo to Europe: but during 
its voyage thither, it was wrecked near 
BonneBay, in the island of Newfoundland. 
The night was dreadfully tempestuous; and 
with great danger and difficulty, Mrs. £ . . . • 
reached the shore, in an open boat, scarcely 
capable of containing four persons. At 
length, however, the whole of the crew 
was safely landed ; and immediately col- 
lected whatever could be saved from the 
floating wreck, and placed the articles 
under a sail-cloth tent. 

The winter had now set in with such 
rigour, that it was totally impossible to 
travel far in search of fishing settlements. 

o Under 



1^4" VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLANI> 

Under these afflicting circumstances, it was 
resolved to erect a hut for the officers, and 
another for the crew; by which means 
they hoped to secure themselves against 
the piercing cold of the climate. It was 
in this miserable state that the youthful 
and delicate Mrs. E . . * . lingered through 
a long and dismal winter, upon a rocky 
coast blocked up with an ocean of frozen 
fragments ; and surrounded, on the land 
side, by snowy mountains and icy valleys. 
Both the lady and her companions were 
compelled to cut off their hair entirely ; 
which was so strung with icicles, that it 
became exceedingly painful and trouble- 
some. To add to the sufferings of this 
unfortunate lady, she found herself pre- 
gnant. The crew mutinied; swearing, with 
dreadful imprecations, that they would take 
away the life of her husband, because, he 
}iad prudently refused them an immoderate 
share, of the brandy that had been saved 

from 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 195 

from the wreck: and the barbarous wretches 
even threw fire-brands into the hut where 
she lay, although their whole stock of gun- 
powder was stored within its walls ! At 
length, the much wished-for season of 
Spring made its appearance : but instead of 
comfort, it brought additional misery to the 
amiable and lovely Mrs. £ ... * Hitherto 
the affectionate attentions of her fond hus- 
band had been the solace and support of her 
life; but in the attempt to land a few casks 
of salted beef from the remains of the 
wreck, the boat overset, and he was 
drowned ! Left thus destitute and friend- 
less, among a gang of desperate miscreants, 
she had still courage to resist their brutal 
attempts upon her virtue: and, as the 
Summer advanced, she followed them bare- 
footed through the woods, until they 
reached the Jishing settlements in Bonne 
Bay. She was here but badly provided 
with food or necessaries; and was therefore 

o 2 easily 



196 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

easily prevailed on to go in a small vessel 
bound for Forteau, where she hoped to 
procure a passage for Quebec, On her 
arrival Vit Forteau, she took up her abode at 
the house of a Guernsey fisherman. Mis- 
fortune still attended her footsteps ; and 
she was compelled to leave the house of 
this monster, to avoid his odious solici- 
tations. At this moment, Mr. Pm50?2 gene- 
rously offered her that asylum, v/hich her 
hardships, her sufferings, and, above ail^ 
her pregnancy, demanded. By the earliest 
opportunity, the good merchant procured 
her a passage back to her parents : he also- 
defrayed the passage-money from his own 
purse, and supplied her plentifully with 
necessaries for the voyage. 

We afterwards heard that ISIrs.jE... . 
reached Quebec in safety ; and shortly after 
gave birth to a male infant, who still lives 
to comfort her for the loss of her ill-fated 

husband,. 



AND TUS COAST OF LABRADOR. 197 

husband, and, it is to be hoped, will prove 
hereafter the noblest recompence for all 
her sufferings. 

During the time we remained at VAnse 
a Loup, the people on shore were busily 
employed in making preparations for the 
winter seal-fishery. As this proved even- 
tually to be our last visit to the coast of 
Labrador, it will not be an improper place 
to introduce an account of the method 
pursued by the seal fishermen for entrap- 
ping those shy and wary animals. 

There are two modes of catching the 
seals: the one is, by mooring strong nets at 
the bottom of the sea ; and the other, by 
constructing what is called ^' a frame of 
netSy' near the shore of some small bay. 
The latter is the most-approved method, 
and may be easily explained by a figure. 

Suppose 



198 VOYzVGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Suppose AA to be small capstans fixed on 
shore for the purpose of heaving the nets 
lip and down, as occasion may require. 




BB, the hawsers leading from the capstans 
to the nets, cc, the water's edge, dd, strong 
nets running from the beach into the sea ; 
they reach from the bottom to the surface 
of the water. ee, large casks, used to 
buoy up the outer or great net, w^iich runs' 
parallel to the shore, ff, small anchors, 
confining the outer net close down to the 
ground. The hawsers from the capstans 
being slackened, the smaller nets dd sink 

to 



ANIJ THE COAST OP LABRADOR; 199 

to the bottom, whilst the outer net remains 
fixed in its perpendicular position. Great 
exertions are then made by the fishermen 
to drive the seals between the outer net 
and the beach ; when, on a due signal being 
given, the people on the shore heave up 
the small nets dd, by which means the 
animals become inclosed upon all sides. 
From this moment the fishermen consider 
their capture sure, as the fears of these 
creatures drive them to seek an escape by 
the bottom of the nets, which is totally 
impossible ; and they have not sagacity or 
courage enough to leap boldly over the 
top. 

When there are a great many seals in 
sight, the fishermen fire off rauskets, to 
make them, as they express it, '' strike 
into the nets." When the seals are 
skinned, the fat is cut up into small 
pieces^ and then melted into oil in large 

iron 



200 VOTA.GB TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

iron boilers. This oil, in burning, is not 
so offensive to the smell as that produced 
from whale blubber. The price of the seal 
oil varies according to the produce of the 
Greenland and South-Sea whale fisheries : 
the average price is from 4o/. to 50/. per 
ton. 

The seal skins are exported to England; 
where the furriers draw out the hairs, and 
leave only the soft down which is found 
underneath them. It is in this state that 
tkey are used by the ladies, as trimmings 
for pelisses; and, of late years, the most 
beautiful travelling caps have been fabri- 
cated from the same materials. 

During the whole of the summer season, 
the European settlecs in Labrador are em- 
ployed in the cod-Jishery, Their winters 
are occupied in catching seals, obtaining 
furs, making casks, building boats, con- 
structing 



AlfD THE COAST OF LABEADOR. 201 

jtructing fish-flakes, and in completing 
every thing requisite for carrying on th« 
&\]immct fisheries. 

As it was now drawing towards the end 
of October, our Captain determined to take 
a short cruize in the Gulf oi St. Laivrence; 
and afterwards to make another visit to 
L' Arise a Loup, previous to our final depar- 
ture from the Straits of Belle-isle, Accord- 
ingly, we again left the coast of Labrador : 
to which we were never afterwards des- 
tined to return. Previous to our sailing, 
we had received a rein-deer, as a present 
from the inhabitants of Forteau Bay : the 
venison proved an excellent repast to us, 
who had so long subsisted upon salt beef 
and COG?- fish. Wild deer are by no 
means plentiful in Newfoundland; and 
are seldom caught, except in the northern 
parts of the island. 

We 



202- VOYAQE TO NEWFOUNDLAND :. 

We will close this description of the 
Labrador coast, with a few remarks on \he 
navigation of the Straits of Belle-isle* 
Ships intending to pass through this chan- 
nel to the eastward^ should be cautious to 
keep near the Newfoundland shore, until 
they come abreast of JU Anse a Loup ; whea 
they ought immediately to cross over the 
Straits, and, during the remaining part of 
the passage, sail close along the northern 
shore. The necessity of these precautions 
will appear, from a consideration of the 
following facts : First, there is a very 
strong nortlnern in-draught into the Bay of 
Esquimaux ; which is likely to set a vessel 
upon Green Island, if she do not avoid the 
danger, by keeping over on the opposite 
side of the Straits, Secondly, after getting 
abreast of VAnse h Loup, the southern 
shore becomes low and shoal; and there is 
always a strong current setting over to- 
wards Cape Norman, occasioned by an 

in-draught 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 203 

in-draught into Pistolette, a deep gulf 
directly opposite to Cape Chateau. 

In sailing out of the Straits, towards the 
Atlantic, the passage between Belle-isle and 
Newfoundland is by far the most pre- 
ferable. The other channel, between Cape 
Charles and Belle-isle, is generally choked 
by numerous Ice-bergs, which are driven, 
by the southerly current, round the souths 
eastern extremity of Labrador. 

It w^as in this bleak and desolate country 
that Cooh first displayed those talents as a 
marine surveyor, which gained for him the 
patronage of Sir Hugh Palliser, and drew 
the public attention towards his extra- 
ordinary abilities. His'charts of Newfound- 
land and the Straits of Belle-isle are, to 
this day, a convincing proof of the fidelity, 
genius, and discernment, that characterize 

all 



204 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

all the nautical observations of that illus- 
trious circumnavigator. 

'i' From L' Arise a Loup we pursued our 
course towards the west ; and on the day 
subsequent to our departure, we obtained 
sight of Mount Jo/z*, a remarkable eleva- 
tion on the Labrador coast, which has 
before been mentioned, as separating the 
government of Newfoundland from that 
of Canada. 

A day or two afterwards, we saw the 
island of Anticosti, extending in a blue ridge 
along the western horizon ; and giving, by 
its flat appearance, an adequate idea of those 
extensive swamps and morasses that have 
rendered the island uninhabitable. In con- 
sequence of its lying directly in the mouth 
of the river St, Laivrence, and the coast 
being surrounded by very deep water, 

Anticosii 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 205 

Anticosti presents a formidable danger 
to vessels trading with Quebec; for a ship 
may be stranded upon the beach, before her 
soundings give the least notice of its 
proximity. The Ca?iadian Government 
supports one or two poor families who 
reside at Anticosti for the humane purpose 
of relieving shipwrecked mariners ; and 
these are the only inhabitants on the 
island*. 

We had been cruizing about a week in 
the G\M oi St, Lawrence, when we attempted 
to re- visit our old station at UAnse a Loup; 
but a most violent gale of wind from the 
north-east drove us back again towards the 
dangerous shores of Anticosti. We per- 
severed in our efforts, and bufFetted against 
the fury of the tempest for three days 

successively ; 

• His Majesty's ship Leopard^ of 50 guns, commanded by 
Captain Croftony was wrecked upon the island of Anticosti^ in 
the year 1814. 



206 VOYAGE TO NEA7F0UNDLAND 

successively; but the wind seeming rather 
to increase than diminish, Captain Campbell 
was compelled to relinquish his original 
design; and to the great joy of every person 
on board, we bore away towards the south ; 
bidding a last adieu to those scenes which 
Falconer h?i^ so forcibly characterized: 

" From regions where Peruvian billows roar, 
'* To the bleak coasts of savage Labrador." 

After a boisterous passage round the 
southern parts of Newfoundland, we 
arrived at St, Johns in the beginning of 
November, without meeting with any inci- 
dent worth/ of recital. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 207 



CHAP. IX. 



FROM ST. JOHN'S, TO CAPELIN BAY, AND BAY 
OF BULLS. 

State of tJie Capital — -Vigilance of the Governor — Ship- 
wreck of his Majesty's Ship Tweed — Sail from St. 
John's — Anchor at Capelin Bay — Distresses of the 
Irish Emigrants — Excursion from Capelin Bay to 
Ferryland — Surrogate Court — First Settlement ' of 
Ferryland — Present State o/* Ferryland — Sail from 
Capelin Bay — Anchor at Bay of Bulls— Description of 
the place — Return to St. John's. 

W E found the inhabitants of the capital 
busily employed in shipping off their mer- 
chandize for diiFerent ports of Europe; and 
many of them were also arranging matters 
for their own return to Great Britain, 
Small yessels were hourly arriving from 
the outports of Newfoundland, bringing 

crowds 



208 VOYAGE TO NftWFOUNDLAND 

crowds of people, who came either to reside 
at St, John's during the winter, or to sail in 
the autumnal convoys for England, The 
fisheries had now ceased; and numbers of 
the low Irishmen were nightly parading the 
streets, in a state of intoxication. Amongst 
the more wealthy classes, balls, dinners, 
and entertainments, had succeeded to the 
incessant and uninterrupted industry which 
occupied every person, without distinction, 
during the bustle of the Jishing season. 

Shortly after the arrival of the Rosamond 
at St. John's, she was dignified by the 
reception of the Admiral's flag. Sir Richard 
Keats suffered no person under his command 
to suppose that he held a sinecure situ- 
ation. The utmost activity pervaded every 
branch of the public departments. Ships 
of vv^ar were continually anchoring and 
sailing from the harbour; and the coasts 
of Newfoundlas^d were scoured from 

north 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 209 

north to 50Z^/y^ by the most vigilant cruizers. 
The only sure way to the Admiral's favour 
was by evincing the same indefatigable 
exertion, which he manifested himself upon 
every occasion. The naval Guard Officer 
was directed to obtain the most minute 
information from every vessel arriving at 
St.Johiis; and to communicate the result 
of his inquiries, in person, to the Governor. 
In cases of reports concerning British con- 
voys being on their way tow^ards New- 
foundland, or that the enemy's privateers 
had been observed hovering near the coasts, 
it was positively ordered, that the Guard 
Officer should immediately make the same 
known to the Admiral, without regard to 
any hour or time in which such intelhgence 
might be obtained. In the execution of 
his duty, the author once had occasion to 
wait on Sir Richard Keats with intelligence 
of this description. The Admiral had 
retired to bed ; but in five minutes he 

p entered 



210 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

entered the audience-chamber, wrapped in 
a flannel dressing-gown. With the most 
patient scrutiny, he made himself acquainted 
with every minute particular ; and in less 
than half an hour afterwards, a frigate sailed 
out of the harbour, in pursuit of the supposed 
Aniei^ican corsair. 

About a fortnight after our hoisting the 
Admiral's flag, a fisherman came overland 
from a small place to the southward of 
St. Johns, called Petty Harbour, and 
reported that his Majesty's ship Tweed, 
Captain Matlwrs, had been wrecked upon 
the coast. This disagreeable intelHgence 
proved to be correct; and the survivors 
shortly afterwards reached the capital in a 
dreadfully lacerated state. The following 
is a brief statement of the melancholy 
catastrophe. 

The Tweed, of twenty guns, sailed from 

Corit 



AND THE COAST OF LABKABOH. 211 

Corh with a large convoy bound for Neiv- 
foimdland. Having, according to their 
reckoning, reached within forty or fifty 
miles of the island, the fleet hove to, awaiting 
the approach of day-light, as the night 
proved dark and tempestuous. At midnight, 
the Tweed was suddenly encompassed by 
terrific breakers ; and before the least 
exertion could be made, the ship struck 
with violence against the face of a perpen- 
dicular precipice. A mariner's presence of 
mind acquires fresh energy from the actual 
appearance of danger. By taking advan- 
tage of the moment when a mountainous 
billow lifted the vessel to a level with the 
summit of the rock, the First Lieutenant 
and one of the seamen sprang to the shore, 
with a small rope in their hands. It was 
to the amazing activity and foresight 
displayed by these men, that the other 
survivors owed their preservation. A strong 
hawser was -conveyed to those on the 

p 2 eminence, 



2l2 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

eminence, by which forty of the crew- 
contrived to ascend. Numbers perished in 
attempting to follow the example of their 
more fortunate shipmates. Irresistible bil- 
lows now rolled incessantly over the rope, 
and dashed those who clung to it with fury 
against the rocks. Several poor wretches 
quitted their hold, and sunk amid the raging 
surf : others had their brains beaten out, and 
fell dead into the water. Many with broken 
or dislocated joints were assisted to rise by 
those who had already reached the shore. 
All the Officers were saved, except the 
Surgeon and Purser, whom no entreaties 
could stimulate to try the frightful means 
of escape. One miserable wretch, who had 
not courage to quit the wreck, and yet 
dreaded to be left alone upon it, was driven 
by his fears to a despair bordering on 
phrensy : he drew forth his knife, and, 
bestriding the rope, threatened instant 
death to any person who should endeavour 

to 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 213 

to pass. This was no moment to expostulate 
with a madman : he was instantly felled by 
a blow on the head ; and the most daring 
rushed forward, to attempt the ascent. 
Shortly afterwards, a mountainous wave 
rolled over the ship, and bore the wreck 
into deeper water, where it instantly dis- 
appeared ! Of one hundred and twenty 
souls, sixty were thus hurried into eternity 
in an instant. 

The survivors passed the remainder of 
that dreadful night in the cavity of a rock ; 
where the Captain, Officers, and seamen, 
lay huddled together in one heap, to avoid 
being frozen to death. The rain fell in 
torrents, and instantly congealed upon their 
garments. The intense cold added greater 
pain to the agony of their wounds ; and 
many were afterwards deprived of their 
fingers and toes, owing to the same cause. 



Of 



214 VOYAGE TO XEWFOUXDLAXD 

Of theTweed' s convoy, the whole escaped, 
excepting the Southampton^ a very fine 
merchant ship, laden with provisions. The 
crew of the latter were saved ; but they after- 
wards underwent hardships, even greateli: 
than those experienced by the survivors 
from the wreck of the Tweed. 

Such are the dangers to which all vessels 
are liable, in navigating the coast of New- 
foundland. The insertion of the fore- 
going melancholy facts will better illustrate 
the truth of this observation, than a mere 
warning sentence, which may be more 
easily forgotten or overlooked. 

A short time after the loss of his Majesty's 
ship Tweed, our Captain was appointed 
Surrogate for the Chief Justice of St, John s; 
and one of the midshipmen was sworn in 
to officiate as constable or clerk. The 
adjustment of all cases connected with the 

fisheries 



AXD THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 215 

fisheries is usually confided to an officer of 
the navy, who annually visits the out- 
harbours for this purpose. The Admiral 
always selects the best-informed Captain 
for the fulfilment of this arduous service ; 
and the Surrogate has power to levy fines 
under the amount of fifty or sixty pounds. 

We sailed therefore from Sf. Johns about 
the middle of November, upon a judiciary 
excursion to some of the south-eastern ports 
of Newfoundland. 

Towards the first evening after our 
quitting the capital, we met with his 
Majesty's ship Pheasant; and as the Captain 
of that ship had no specific dcstinatidn, he 
accompanied us, for a short distance^ on 
our voyage. 

The emulation displayed by these two 
commanders would have afforded a con- 

siderable 



216 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

siderable source of amusement to an un- 
concerned spectator. Both ships were 
crowded with canvas, to excel each other 
in saiJing. Such v^as the acute observation 
and inquiry of Sir Richard Keats, that 
every officer under his command exerted 
himself to the utmost, to obtain the 
approbation of so distinguished and able 
a chief. Wherever the head of a depart- 
ment is known to be so exceedingly vigi- 
lant;, the inferior officers are ever attentive 
and diligent in the execution of their 
respective duties. 

At night-fall, vre parted company from 
the Pheasant ; and at day-break the fol- 
lowing morning the Rosamond dinchoved in 
Capelin Bay, which is the next port to the 
southward of Cape Broyle, 

Stone Island, Goose Island, and Buoy 
Islandp lay directly in the mouth of Capelin 

Bay; 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 21/ 

Bay ; and there is a good channel between 
either of them : but there is not a sufficient 
depth of water for large ships between 
Stone Island and the main-land of Cape 
Broyle, A large rock, lying in the mid- 
channel, also contributes to render the 
latter an unsafe passage, even for fishing 
vessels. 

After passing the islands, Capelin Bay 
runs in towards the west-north-west, to a 
depth of nearly six miles. A ship may sail 
in or out, with the wind in any direction ; 
and the harbour is so convenient, that it 
has frequently been made the rendezvous 
for the Newfoundland trade bound under 
convoy to the Mediterranean, 

The number of excellent ports on this 
coast cannot be made to appear more 
manifest, from any circumstance, than from 
the few fishermen who have settled in this 

noble 



218 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

noble bay. In some parts of the world, 
such a harbour would be deemed an in- 
valuable possession ; particularly as the 
heights might be easily fortified, so as to 
secure the place from any sudden attack. 

On the south side of Capelin Bay there 
extends a long slip of land, projecting 
towards the east ; and from the extremity 
of this cape a string of small islets, or 
rather dry rocks, which separate this port 
from Ferryland Harbour. 

Nothing can be more deplorable than 
the situation of those poor Irishmen who 
migrate annually, in great numbers, from 
the mother country, to Newfoundland. 
In order to procure for themselves a passage 
across the Atlantic, they enter into a bond 
with the master of a trading vessel; whereby 
they stipulate to pay him a certain sum as 
passage- money, immediately subsequent to 

their 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 219 

their having obtained employment at Sf. 
John's. The emigrants are compelled to find 
securities in Ireland, for the due observance 
of their agreement; and w^hen the vessel 
reaches Newfoundland, they are suffered 
to go at large, in search of an employer. 
It must be allowed, that many of them are 
not over scrupulous in returning to fulfil 
their contract ; as they hope, by absenting 
themselves, to avoid paying their passage- 
money. In such cases, the master of the 
trading vessel publishes the names of the 
absentees; with an intimation, that, on a 
failure of appearance, their Irish securities 
will be sued for the amount of the debt, 
costs of suit, and interest. The fear of 
involving their parents, or other relations, 
in a law process, seldom fails to draw forth 
the fugitives; when their employer instantly 
pays down the amount of their passage- 
money, and places the sum to his new 
servant's debit siccount 

From 



220 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

From this moment the unfortunate emi- 
grants become the vassals of their employers ; 
as it is but rarely that they can succeed in 
working out their emancipation : for the 
slavery of the Newfoundland fishermen, 
thus commenced upon their first entering 
the country, is perpetuated by a system of 
the most flagrant and shameful extortion. 
Every merchant, and master of a fishery, is 
the huckster of his w^hole establishment; 
and the servants are compelled to purchase 
their supplies of food, raiment, and every 
trifling necessary, of the person in 'whose 
service they may chance to be engaged. 
No money passes between theip ; but the 
account of every article that is supplied to 
the fishermen is entered -in the books of 
their masters. The prices are so enormous, 
that the original debt due for the passage- 
money of the emigrants, instead of being 
diminished by the hardest and most faithful 
servitude, continues rapidly to increase. 

It 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 221 

It is in vain that the unfortunate debtor 
complains of the barefaced imposition, by 
which he is forced to pay three times the 
value of the most trivial article : having no 
money, he cannot go elsewhere to obtain 
what he may want, nor can he subsist with- 
out the necessaries of life. Thus, then, the 
Newfoundland fisherman toils from day to 
day, with no relaxation for the present, and 
without the least hope for the future. His 
exertions, labours, and industry, serve but 
to swell the purse and the pride of a rapa- 
cious master; until death happily inter- 
venes, and cancels all accounts betwixt 
them. Those only are gainers by the 
Jisheries who are able to employ people 
on their own service, and have the means 
of conveying the produce of their labours 
to St. Joliris for a market. 

The preceding observations on the dis- 
tresses of the Irish fishermen have been 

inserted 



222 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

inserted in this place, that it may not be 
supposed the author intended to allude 
to the merchants of any particular port 
in Newfoundland. There are doubtless 
many exceptions to the character here 
drawn of the masters of jisheries ; but 
general fidelity of description is not to 
be invalidated by partial distinctions ; 
and those who know themselves to be 
superior to the extortionate rapacity of 
such men, will bear witness that the 
foregoing representation has not been ex- 
aggerated. 

The day after our arrival in Capelin Bay, 
our Captain proceeded in a boat to the 
town of Ferryland: and as some of the 
Officers also entertained a wish to see the 
latter place, we made an excursion over 
land for this purpose. A pathway through 
the woods is the only road between the 
two harbours; and this path is, in many 

places. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 223 

places, so swampy, that we journeyed 
with considerable difficulty. The bogs 
and quagmires were here and there covered 
with branches of trees. We noticed all 
those kinds of trees which are peculiar to 
the forests of North America.; such as, the 
fir, poplar, birch, willow, larch, alder, and 
spruce. Of the latter, there are many 
species ; and a decoction of its bark 
affords a wholesome beverage to the 
inhabitants of Newfoundland and La- 
BJRADOR. The young shoots and tender 
branches of the spruce-tree are usually 
selected for this purpose, and boiled in 
water until the bark may be rubbed off by 
the hand ; the branches are then taken out, 
and a proportion of molasses added to the 
liquor. In this state it is put into an open 
cask, and left to cool ; w^hen it is consi- 
dered fit for use. This sort of drink is not 
very palatable, upon a first trial ; but it is 
said to become more agreeable to the taste 

after 



224 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

after a person has accustomed himself to 
the use of it. 



There is a bird very common in the 
woods of this country, which is called, 
by the settlers, '^ a spruce partridge." Its 
flesh is of a disagreeable bitter taste, sup- 
posed to be occasioned by its feeding 
upon the bark of the spruce-tree. In 
colour, shape, and size, it resembles the 
common partridge of England; but differs 
from the latter, by perching on the branches 
of trees, and in being so very tame as 
frequently to be knocked down with a 
pole. We shot some of these birds on our 
journey to Ferryland : they were exceed- 
ingly bitter when roasted ; but when cooked 
as ?ifricasee, they lost this disagreeable qua- 
lity, and became perfectly well tasted and 
savoury. 

We arrived at Ferryland about ttn 

o'clock 



VOTAGi: TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 



225 



o'clock in the forenoon, and were surprised 
to find all the people of the place in their 
best attire, as if it had been the day of the 
Sabbath. Men, women, and children, were 
flocking in a body towards a large edifice 
upon the side of a hill. Conjecturing this 
to be a place of worship, we ascended with 
the crowd, and entered the building pell- 
mell with them. Here we were astonished 
at seeing our worthy Captain placed in a 
high-railed pew; by the side of a short 
squab man, in a green coat, with a pair of 
large spectacles upon his nose. On the 
Captain's left hand, ten or eleven decent- 
looking men were huddled together in a 
sort of pound, with scarcely sufficient 
room to turn themselves. A moment's 
observation convinced us, that we had en- 
tered the Suirogate Court of Justice ; that 
the people in the pound were Jurors ; and 
that the little man in greqn was the Magi* 
strafe, of Ferry Ictnd. 

Q At 



226 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

At the moment of our intrusion, the 
Court was occupied in the trial of an Irish 
fisherman, who, after labouring hard for 
five or six months, had, it appeared, been 
brought thither by his master, to shew cause 
why he should not forfeit the whole of his 
nominal wages, because he became intoxi- 
cated towards the latter end of the fishing 
season. The law was evidently on the 
master's side ; and the Jurors were all 
masters themselves. The poor fellow was 
found guilty, in the fullest extent of the 
word ; but the Jury were desired by the 
Captain to re-consider their verdict : they 
did so, and returned the same result. Our 
Captain then, as Judge, proceeded to pass 
sentence upon the culprit, in the following 
words : — ^^ Prisoner, you have been found 
'^ guilty, after the most mature delibera- 
" tion, of unruly and disorderly conduct. 
'^ The law, in such a case, warrants the 
^' Court to cancel all your claims for wages; 

^^ but. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOU. 227 

*' but, in consideration of your former in- 
*^ dustrious character, of your large family, 
*' and of your master having Jiimself supplied 
'' the means of intoxication, you are hereby 
*' sentenced to be mulcted of only one half 
*' of your wages, as a penalty for your 
*^ drunkenness and misconduct/' The 
effect produced by this righteous judgment 
was instantaneous : the countenances of 
the fishermen brightened, whilst those of 
the Masters fell. The former were bright- 
ened by the smiles of gratitude and joy: 
the latter bore the deeper tints of irritation 
and discontent. Our good Captain mani- 
fested the same impartiality and lenity, 
throughout the whole line of his judicial 
career; and persevered to the last in the 
humane system of tempering justice with 
mercy. It was in vain that the Masters of 
the Fisheries fawned, or frowned : he nei- 
ther suffered himself to be seduced by the 

Q 2 treachery 



ZZO VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

treachery of the one, nor alarmed by the 
menaces of the other. After the whole 
business of the Court was concluded, he 
refused all solicitations to enter the houses 
of the opulent ; and returned in his boat, 
to enjoy the satisfaction which results from 
conscious rectitude, on board the Rosa- 
mond, 

After leaving the Surrogate Court y we 
strolled down the hill, and went to see the 
harbour of Ferryland, The inner part of 
this port is as secure from all winds and 
waves as a bason or dock ; and it is 
therefore called, by the inhabitants, '' The 
Pool.'" The mouth of Ferryland harbour 
is narrow, but not dangerous: the tides 
rise three, four, and sometimes five feet; 
and this is the case all along the south-east 
coast oi Neivfoundland, There is a suffi- 
cient depth of water in Ferryland harbour 

for 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 229 

for the reception of large merchant vessels; 
and even ships of war have wintered in the 
Pool^. 

It has been already observed, that New- 
foundland was first colonized by Sir 
George Calvert, Secretary of State to James 
the First '\: and in Whithourne' s Discoyerj 
there are three letters from the first set- 
tlers. Captains Edward Wynne and Daniel 
Powell, Wynne was appointed Governor of 
the colony at Ferryland; and Powell esta- 
blished himself at a bay to the southward, 
called Aquqfort, It is evident, by their 
letters, that these men were either fools 
or knaves ; that they were either misled 
by a false judgment in their favourable 
accounts of Newfoundland, or that they 
purposely wrote a deceptive description 
of the country to deceive their patron. 

Ferryland 

* His Majesty's ship Hazard lay in Ferryland Pool during 
the whole winter of 1812. 
t See page 38, Chapter II. 



230 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

Ferryland was the first place in Newfound- 
land which could boast of permanent inha- 
bitants from Europe, and the beauties of the 
place have been thus glowingly pourtrayed 
by Captain Wynne :^ 

/' We haue Vv^heat, Barly, Gates and 

^- Beanes both eared and codded, We 

'^ haue also a plentifull Kitchen- Garden of 
'^ many things, and so ranke, that I haue 
-'' not scene the like in England. Our 
^' Beanes are exceeding good : our Pease 
-' shall goe without compare; for they are 
'' in some places as high as a man of an 
■' extraordinary stature : Raddish as big as 
'^ mine arme: Lettice, Cale or Cabbedge, 
-^ Turneps, Garrets and ail the rest is of 
^^ like goodnesse. We haue a Medow of 
''about three Acres; it flourished lately 
*' with many cockes of good hay, and is 

'^ now made vp for a Winter feeding. 

'' touching this Countrey, the Summer- 

" time 



AN J) tFHjE €OA«T OF LABRADOR. 231 

*' time heere is so faire, so vvarme, and of 
** so good a temperature, that it produceth 
'* many herbes and plants very wholesome, 
'' medicinable and delectable, many fruit 
'' trees of sundry kinds, many sorts of 
*' Berries wholesome to eate, and in mea- 
*' sure most abundant; in so xiiuch as many 
*' sorts of birds and beasts are relieued 
*' with them in time of Winter, and where- 
^' of with further experience I truste to 
*' finde some for the turne of Dyers." — 
" Our high leuels oi Land are adorned 
'' with Woods, both faire and seemely to 
'* behold, and greene all Winter. Within 
•' Land there are Plaines innumerable, many 
'' of them containing many thousand Acres, 
'' very pleasant to see to, and well fur- 
*^ nished with Ponds, Brookes, and Riuers, 
*' very plentiful! of sundry sores of fish, 
'* besides store of Deere, and other beasts 
*' that yeeld both food and furre. Touch- 
*' ing the soyle, I finde it in many places, 

*' of 



232 VOTAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

^* of goodnesse farre beyond my expecta- 
*^ tion : the earth as good as can be : the 
'^ grasse both fat and vnctious*/' 

Had the foregoing letter been dated from 
some one of the most fertile provinces in 
France or Italy, we might not have sup- 
posed the writer to be guilty of exaggera- 
tion. But his description is both fallacious 
and absurd, as applied to the bleak and ste- 
rile coast of Newfoundland. We found, 
indeed, that the original colony of Ferry- 
land had increased in size to the level of a 
large and respectable English village ; but 
the soil around the place was slaty, and 
destitute of all vegetation. At a short di- 
stance from Ferryland arise lofty mountains, 
composed of argillaceous schistus, which are 
bare, even to their summits. Beyond these, 
the woods, swamps, and quagmires of the 

interior 

* See Letter of Captain Edward Wynne to the Right 
Honourable Sir George Calvert, in WJtithourne s ** Discovrse 
and Discovery of Newfoundland," 



ANP THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 233 

interior are found to commence and con- 
tinue. 

Captain Wynne could only have been 
induced to make such a shameful mis- 
statement of facts, in the prospect of some 
immediate object of aggrandizement or 
gain. He must naturally have concluded 
that Sir George Calvert w^ould seek a con- 
firmation of his agent's accounts from 
persons who had also visited Newfound- 
land. The following passage in Wynne s 
letter evidently. proves that he felt some 
apprehensions of being detected in his 
imposture. 

^' The Vines that came from Plhmnmith, 
'^ doe prosper very well: nay, it is to be 
^' assured, that any thing that growes in 
*' England, will grow and prosper very 
" well here: whereby it plainely appeares 
'' vnto your Honour, what manner of 

*^ Countrey 



234 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

'' Countrej the same is. Therefore it may 
'^ please you to giiie credit vnto no man that 
'* shall seeme to vrge the contrary. And for 
'' my part, seeing that by the prouidence 
** of God and your Honours meere fauour 
'^towards me, this imployment is falne to 
** my lot, I trust that neither Gods grace in 
*^ me, nor the experience that I haue gained 
*' by the trauels of my youth, will suffer 
" me to wrong your Honour. Farre be it 
*' from mee to goe about to betray you and 
*' my Countrcy, as others haue done that 
'^ have beene imployed in the hke trust." — 
*^ I trust also, that what I haue vndertaken 
*^ either by word or writing, will bee found 
** the Characters of a true and zealous 
*' minde, wholy deuoted vnto your Honours 
^^ seruice, the good of my poore distressed 
*' Countrimen, and to the aduancement of 
'' Gods glory." 

Had this man been perfectly at ease, 

respecting 



A^D THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 235 

respecting the rectitude of his principles, and 
the accuracy of his reports, he would have 
been less solicitous in thus fencing the truth 
of his statement with specious assurances. 

Observing very little else worth notice 
in Ferrylandy we returned on board in the 
evening; and the following morning the 
Rosamond sailed from Capelin Bay. On 
leaving this port, the coast towards the 
south appears to be split into a number of 
deep cracks ; the fissures of which form a 
line of noble harbours, extending the whole 
distance from Cape Race to Ferryland Head. 
Amongst the most conspicuous of these, we 
may enumerate Renoives, Fermowes, and 
Aquafort. 

Towards the north of Capelin Bay rises 
the majestic promontory of Cape jBro^fe; 
and farther on, the coast exhibits a flat 
tuall of rock, until, again trending inwards, 

it 



236 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

it forms Witless Bay, where there lies a 
dangerous ledge of sunken rocks. 

The course from Cape Broyle to the south 
head of the Bay of Bulls is exactly north- 
north-east hdXi east', and the distance is 
about five leagues. There are a few small 
islands lying along-shore between those 
two places, the most considerable of which 
are, Foxes, Gull, and Green islands. 

We anchored in the Bay of Bulls on the 
morning subsequent to our leaving Capelin 
Bay ; and our Captain immediately went 
on shore, to hold a Surrogate Court for the 
administration of justice. 

The distance between the two promon- 
tories forming the Bay of Bulls is not more 
than a mile and a quarter, or thereabouts ; 
and from those capes the bay runs in, west-- 
north-west, for npnrl- ^^-^^ miles. On the 

north 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 23f 

north side there is a projection of land, 
called Bread and Cheese Point, with a 
sunken rock lying off, at the distance 
of three hundred and sixty-five yards. 
Every other part of the port is perfectly 
free from obstruction or danger. A ship 
of war, entering the Bay of Bulls, should 
anchor a little within the Bread and Cheese 
Point, where she will find fourteen or 
fifteen fathoms' water ; but merchant vessels 
anchor higher up the bay, towards the river's 
mouth, in from five to six fathoms water. 
Ships of war ride with about three points 
of the compass open towards the sea; but 
merchantmen lie with only one point 
exposed. 

In 1 762, the French made a descent from 
the Bay of Bulls. They were commanded 
by Monsieur De Ter7iay, and rapidly made 
themselves masters of St, Johns, the capital 
of the island. But the invaders were 

quickly 



238 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND ] 

quickly compelled to evacuate their con- i 
quest, by an inferior naval and military ' 
force commanded by Lord Colville and ; 

Colonel Amherst. j 

j 

The^shing establishments in this bay can i 
hardly be said to merit the title of a town, 

although they be superior to the generality \ 
of Newfoundland villages, in cleanliness, 

order, and regularity. There is here a ! 

decent hall for the reception of the Surro- j 
gate Court ; and many of the houses are 

neat and commodious ; but they are all i 

built of wood, and weather-boarded. On ; 

the north side of the bay, several wooden ; 
quays project into the water; and many 

light merchant vessels were busily em- : 

ployed alongside of them. Ships bound i 

from hence to Europe, take on board \ 

about half their cargo at the quays, when \ 

they are compelled by the shoalness of ] 
the water to haul out farther into the bav, 

and 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 239 

and the remaining part of their burthen is 
conveyed on board by large boats. 

The day after our arrival at the Bay of 

Bulls, the author, accompanied by a few of 

his brother officers, proceeded upon a 

shooting excursion into the country.. After 

roaming for a considerable distance through 

woods and by the shores of small lakes, 

we came at length to an open swampy 

plain covered with furze and prickly 

shrubs. Here we found the partridges so 

numerous, that we each shot five or six brace, 

without the aid of dogs. Towards evening 

we returned to the ship, completely 

exhausted by our long ramble through the 

w^oods and morasses of the interior. 

The following morning v/e sailed from 

the l&aj of Bulls, with a slight breeze at the 
south-east: and our Captain being very 

anxious to get back again to St, John's, we 

ran in, and anchored there at midnight. 



i40 VOYAGE f O NEWFOUiSTDLANI* 



CHAP. X. 



FROM ST, JOHN'S TO ENGLAND. 

Anxiety of the Crew — Preparations for sailing — Custom 

respecting Passengers — Desultory Observations — Sail 

from St. John's — Part from the Admiral — Dispositions 

for Defence — Storm — Part from the Convoy — Colonel 

Grant' — Finesse of a Frenchman — Prize — Anchor at 

Spithead. 

It was now the beginning oi December, 
and winter began to set in with great 
rigour. The anxiety of our officers and 
seamen to return to England was augment- 
ing daily ; and their apprehensions had 
been much excited, by a report of the 
Rosamond's having been selected by the 
Admiral to lie at an out-harbour until the 
following spring. In fact, Sir Richard 
Keats had such a measure in contemplation; 

as 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 241 

as he very justly thought it necessary 
to station a respectable naval force for the 
protection of the island, in consequence 
of the boldness displayed by some of the 
American squadrons. His Majesty's frigate 
the Crescent was therefore ordered to 
winter in St, Johns Harbour ; his Ma- 
jesty's ship Pheasant, at Ferryland; and 
our ship was to have been sent for the 
same purpose to Placentia; but, in conse- 
quence of some severe domestic calamities 
having occurred in the family of our 
worthy Captain, the Admiral kindly con- 
sented that we should return with him to 
England, provided any other man of war 
could be found to supply the place of the 
Rosamond. 

Day succeeded day, and no other vessel 
arrived : and as the Admiral's convoy was 
now nearly ready for departure, we began 
to give up all hope of leaving the country; 

R vvhen. 



242 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

when, to our great joy, we were awakened 
one night by the firing of guns at the har- 
bour's mouth. We all conjectured that a 
fresh ship had arrived from England, to 
succeed the Rosamond: nor were we dis- 
appointed ; the reports were found to pro- 
ceed from the guns of his Majesty's ship 
Prometheus; and on the following morn- 
ing we began, with great alacrity, to pre- 
pare for leaving the island of Newfound- 
land. 

It surprised us much, that although we 
had never previously received much atten- 
tion from the Merchants of St, Johns, yet 
it was no sooner publickly announced that 
the Rosamond was bound for England, than 
cards of invitation showered upon our 
officers from all directions. The mystery 
was however speedily explained. Some 
of lis visited a few tea-parties, where we 
were immediately assailed by a hundred 

, appUcations 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 243 

applications from persons who wished for a 
conveyance in our ship across the Atlantic. 
Not feeling particularly grateful for the 
hospitality which had originated in such 
interested motives, we came to a resolution, 
neither to enter their houses, nor to receive 
any of them on board as passengers. We 
were however afterwards given to under- 
stand, that the practice of granting the 
Newfoundland merchants a passage in 
King's ships, during war, had grown, from 
habit, into a sort of established custom ; 
and we therefore submitted to the recep- 
tion of six or seven interlopers of this kind, 
to avoid the imputation of an affected sin- 
gularity. 

The foregoing description of Newfound-- 
land will be concluded by a few desultory 
observations, that have been omitted in 
their proper places. 

R 2 A Committee 



244 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

A Committee of Merchants at St. Johns 
regulates the affairs of commerce, and 
makes appUcation to the Admiral for the 
appointment of convoys when they are 
required. While we lay there in the Rosa- 
mond, the President of this Committee was 
an Irishman of low origin, who had been a 
Serjeant in the rebel army at the battle of 
Vinegar Hill, 

There is a public Reading-room inS^. JbA/i*^, 
to which any subscriber may introduce the 
non-resident officers of the army or navy, 
w^ho from thenceforth are considered as ho- 
norary members of the Society. The whole 
of the English Daily Papers, the 5^. Johns 
Gazette, and most of the British Monthly 
Publications, are here to be met with. 



There is but little religion in the capital 
of Newfoundland ; but the inhabitants pro- 
fess to belong either to the Protestant or to 

the 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 245 

the Catholic Church. There is a Church for 
the use of the former, and a Chapel for 
those of the latter persuasion. 



The coin of Great Britain and the Spa- 
nish dollar are current in Newfoundland \ 
but there is such a deficiency of specie, that 
almost every merchant issues notes in lieu 
of cash. This paper currency is the prin- 
cipal circulating medium of the country; 
and the notes are from five pounds to five 
shillings in value. 



The enormous gains of the Newfoundland 
merchants has been already noticed ; and 
the following anecdote may serve as an 
illustration of the fact. During the time of 
our stay in this country, a merchant of 
considerable respectablity confessed to the 
author, that he should clear 2ooo/. by the 
produce of the j^^^mg-season ! — This asser- 
tion, of course, excited much surprise; 

but 



246 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

but the merchant undertook, without the 
least hesitation, to point out the sources 
whence such extraordinary profits were 
derived. 

First. — The cod-Ash and oil procured by 
his own fishermen. 

Secondly/, — The great profit on cod-fish 
purchased of different petty Boat Masters 
along the coast, who have not themselves 
the means of conveying their produce to 
»S^. Johns. For the fish obtained in this 
manner, he usually paid about 20 shillings 
per quintal, when the same quantity was 
worth l/. 125. in the market of St. Johns; 
and if sent to Portugal, could be sold at 
2/. 2s. per quintal. 

Thirdly. — The profit arising from supply- 
ing the petty Boat Masters with provisions 
for the winter, clothing, powder, shot, and 
salt, at triple prices. 

Fourthly, 



AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 247 

Fourthly. — The produce of a large salmon 
fishery, amounting annually to two hundred 
tierces. 

Fifthly, — The oil obtained from the winter 
seal-jishery , 

These were the fertile sources of his gains : 
his out-goings at the same time were com- 
paratively trivial, as the fishermen in his 
employ were/ for the most part, paid by 
supplies of necessaries, on which the profits 
were so great as almost to clear the expense 
of labour. 



The convoy being at length prepared for 
sailing, and the Admiral having adjusted all 
Public affairs for the ensuing winter, we 
weighed anchor on the fourteenth oi Decern-- 
her, and bade a final adieu to the Harbour of 
St. Johns. 

During the first week after we lost sight 

of 



248 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

of Newfoundland, the fleet proceeded at a 
moderate rate, with favourable breezes from 
the north and ivest. The Admiral, in his 
Majesty's ship BelleropJion, kept his con- 
stant station at a distance from the convoy, 
leaving the regulation and command of the 
latter to our Captain, of w^hose nautical 
abilities he justly entertained a very high 
opinion. His Majesty's schooner Adonis, 
ccmrnanded by Lieutenant Buchan^, brought 
up the rear of the w^hole fleet ; and by the 
activity of that officer, they were prevented 
from straggling, or falling into disorder. 

We were enabled to ascertain, by our 
soundings, the precise time at which we 
crossed the outer edge of the Great Banh; 
and by a proper attention to this circum- 
stance, our reckoning proved to be tolerably 

correct, 

* This officer was employed, for a length of time, in survey- 
ing the Coasts of Newfoundland ; and he has lately been pro- 
moted to the rank of Commander, 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 249 

correct. Shortly afterwards, the Admiral's 
ship left us, and steered away in a more 
southerly direction ; so that the protection 
of the convoy was now wholly confided 
to the Rosamond and Adonis, 

As several American and French frigates 
were known to be upon the seas, Captain 
Campbell made the most judicious dispo- 
sitions for the defence of his convoy. As 
the Rosamond mounted only twenty-six 
guns, and the Adonis not more than ten, it 
was determined, that, in the event of our 
falling in with an enemy's frigate, both ves- 
sels should instantly lay her on-board, and 
endeavour to carry the decks by storm. 
For this purpose, the necessary instructions 
were issued to Lieutenant Biichan : and 
that, in such a mingled contest, we might 
be able to distinguish friends from foes, 
each officer and sailor of the two vessels 
constantly wore white scarfs round both 

arms, 



250 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

arms, until the Rosamond and Adonis were 
subsequently separated in a storm, as will 
hereafter be related. 

We had parted from the Admiral about 
ten days, and were scudding along with a 
steady gale at the ivest, when suddenly 
tJie wind shifted into the north-nortJi^westy 
and blew with such amazing violence, that 
the waves were tossed to and fro in all 
directions, as if the whole ocean had been 
boiling with subterraneous fire. The bil- 
lows dashed furiously against the sides of 
our ship, and, breaking through the gang- 
way boards, rushed, like a torrent, along 
the quarter-deck. At length this conflict 
of opposing waters was converted into a 
tremendous sea, rolling from the north- 
west; and we were compelled to set our 
foresail and main- topsail, to keep the ship 
before it. 

The 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 251 

The instant that we spread our canvas to 
the gale, the Rosamond appeared to flj along 
the deep with the rapidity of a sea-bird ; 
and it was with regret that our Ciiptaiu 
observed his convoy lessening gradually to 
the view : but such a mighty wall of water 
rolled after the Rosamond, that it would 
have endangered all our lives if we had 
shortened sail, or waited for the fleet. 

We accordingly pursued our course for 
two days, during which neither the wind 
nor sea abated in the least. At the expira- 
tion of this time, it became more moderate, 
and we steered towards the souths in hopes 
of again meeting with our convoy. As two 
days elapsed, and they did not appear, we 
concluded that they must have passed us in 
the night; and we therefore stood on in an 
easterly direction, although we never after- 
w^ards obtained a sight of the fleet. 



We 



2.52 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

We had at last got well towards the east; 
and being in the latitude of Bourdeaiix, ex- 
pected every hour to fall in with an enemy's 
cruizer. At length, a large ship was seen 
on the weather-bow, to which we gave 
chace ; and some time after dark, we came 
up v/ith her. The stranger hailed us, saying 
they were English, and requesting that a 
boat might be sent to them. Accordingly, a 
young midshipman was sent on board; who 
soon returned, accompanied by an officer in 
regimentals, with a large pair of mustachios. 
This person requested a private audience of 
Captain Caniphell, and was conducted by the 
latter to his cabin. Curiosity now drew all 
our officers towards the young midshipman ; 
and they eagerly inquired respecting the 
country, business, and rank of the gentle- 
man in mustachios. The midshipman said 
that he supposed the stranger to be a French-- 
man, because his pronunciation had a strong 
foreign accent. There was much surprise 

and 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 253 

and laughter, when it was discovered that 
this sui^posed foreigner was one of the most 
distinguished of our Caledonian heroes ; in 
fact, no less a personage than the gallant 
Colonel Grant*, Aid-de-camp to his Royal 
Highness the Prince Regent, This officer 
had sailed from Spain, in a ship bound for 
England, immediately subsequent to the 
memorable battle of the Pyrenees ; but in 
entering the British Channel, he had been 
captured by two French frigates, at that 
time cruizing near Scilly, liht Frenchmen 
had taken and destroyed a great number 
of vessels, and their ships were much en- 
cumbered with prisoners. Fortunately for 
Colonel Grant, they therefore selected his 
vessel to answer the purpose of a cartel, 
into which they huddled the whole of their 
£72g/i5^ captives. By their so easily releasing 
Colonel Grant, it is not at all probable that 

they 

* This officer has since been promoted to the rank of a 
General. 



254 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 

they were aware of his high rank in the 
British army. 

But to return to the cause which had 
induced this gentleman to visit the Rosa- 
mond, The Colonel had seized this oppor- 
tunity of communicating, to a naval com- 
mander, the weak and inefficient state of the 
enemy's frigates'^. He had also a complaint 
to make against the E^iglish sailors who had 
been forced into the ship with him. As 
soon as the cartel had been released by the 
Frenchmen, the seamen broke open the ves- 
sel's hold, and plundered linens and cambrics 
to a considerable amount. These despera- 
does also threatened to run the cartel on 
shore, to avoid being impressed on board a 
man of war ; and to complete their mis- 
conduct, they fell to work upon the porter 
and hams belonging to the master of the 

ship, 

*Both these ships were shortly afterwardfe captured by 
British frigates. 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 255 

ship, which they wasted and devoured in a 
shameful manner. 

On hearing this account, Captain Camp^ 
bell determined to strengthen the Rosa- 
mond's crew, by removing thirty of the 
leading mutineers into her ; and . this we 
accomplished before the dawn of day. 
Being thus stoutly manned, we left the 
Cartel ship; and at eight o'clock on the 
same morning we discerned another vessel 
to leeward. All sail was immediately 
made in pursuit ; and we were delighted to 
observe that the stranger also crowded all 
her canvas, as if to escape. The superior 
speed of the Rosamond had so far gained 
on the stranger, that at four in the after- 
noon we hoisted our ensign, which was 
answered by the display of a Portuguese 
flag. However, as she did not slacken sail, 
we continued the pursuit until it was quite 
dark, when we came alongside, and our 

Captain 



256 VOYAGE TO NE^VFOUNDLAND 

Captain hailed, '' What ship is thatf'-^ 
*^ Porfugueza fregata,'' was the reply. 
Hereupon the stranger was ordered to 
shorten sail, and send his boat on board 
the Rosamo7id; with which he at length 
thought proper to comply. 

When the n^aster of the vessel came 
to us, he shook Captain Campbell very 
heartily by the hand, declaring, in broken 
English, that he was '* ver glad to find us 
friends;' for he had at first imagined the 
Rosamond to be ''von damn Frenchesmany 
He went down to the cabin with great 
cheerfulness, to have his papers examined ; 
and our First Lieutenant was sent to inspect 
the apparent Portuguese ship. 

Whilst we were busily employed in 
securing our guns, and putting every thing 
in order, the First Lieutenant hailed from 
the strange ship, to say that she was a 

prize! 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 257 

prize ! The author immediately descended 
,to the Captain's cabin, and informed him of 
this report; when the poor Frenchman (for 
such in reality he was) shrugged up his 
shoulders, and exclaimed, '^Ah mon Dieu! 
" 'tis too true; I am no Portngueza, but a 
'^ French prize bound to Bourdeaux'' 

Upon an examination, the vessel in ques- 
tion proved to be a large and very valuable 
Portugueze Brazil ship, laden principally 
with cochineal, indigo, cocoa, and drugs. 
She had been captured by a famous French 
privateer, called the Duchesme ; and was 
prosecuting her voyage to France at the 
time the Rosamond so providentially over- 
took her. 

When the First Lieutenant returned, he 
stated, that having found all the sailors in 
red caps, similar to those worn by the Por- 

s tugueze 



258 VOYA.GE TO KEWFOUNDL AND 

tugueze seamen, he had very nearly become 
^ dupe to their stratagem ; but on looking 
into the main-hold, he distinguished a low 
moaning, as if proceeding from some per- 
son confined in a box. Searching farther, 
he discovered a man bound and gagged, 
w^hom he instantly released. The moment 
this poor fellow could use his tongue, he 
exclaimed to the officer, '' Dis ship, Sare, is 
*' von Portugueza ; and dese rascals (point- 
^- ing to the men in red caps) are not my 
'^ CountramanSi but French tieves, who 
'^ stoppee my mouth, because dey 'fraid 
^- roe inform 'gainst dem/' 

We were employed during the whole 
night in securing our prisoners, and send- 
ing provisions, water, and people, on board 
our prize, the Minerva, It was well we 
used such expedition ; as a gale came on 
the following morning, attended with so 

thick 



AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 259 

thick a mist, that we were soon separated 
from the prize, and heard no more of her 
until the Rosamond arrived in England, 

A few days subsequent to this affair, we 
saw a schooner and a brig to windward, 
which we believed to be the Adonis, with 
one of our late convoy. We afterwards 
learnt that our conjecture was not erro- 
neous in this respect. At length, having 
had much beating about with contrary and 
stormy winds, we came in sight of the 
Scilly Islands ; and in a few days after- 
wards anchored at Spithead, from whence 
the Rosamond had been absent nearly 
twelve months. 

Our fears had been much excited for the 
safjpty of our convoy and the Minerva prize ; 
as the enemy's cruizers absolutely swarmed 
about this time in the British Channel ; ancj 
Buonaparte, as a dying effort against ,ou,r 

victorious 



260 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND^ &C. 

victorious Government, had sent to sea 
all the French frigates that he could pos- 
sibly muster. We were therefore much 
rejoiced to learn that our prize had reached 
Plymouth in safety, although she had been 
hotly pursued by an American privateer. 
Our convoy had been attacked by a French 
sqliadron ; and the Adonis had escaped 
from them, by throwing her guns over- 
board. 

A survey was held upon the Rosamond 
shortly after her arrival at Spithead ; and as 
it appeared that her bottom had suffered 
considerable damage from the drift-ice 
of Newfoundland, the Admiralty gave 
orders for her to proceed round to Ply- 
mouth, where she was immediately taken 
into dock, and underwent a thorough 
repair. 



APPENDIX 



ACCOUNT 

OF THE 

WRECK OF THE TRANSPORT, HARPOONER, 

Near Cape Pine, in Newfoundland, 
Nov. 10, 1816. 

Extracted from the Daily Papers of Dec. 17, 1816. 

vJn the 26th of October, detachments of the 
Fourth Royal Veteran Battahon, and their families, 
with a few belonging to other corps in Canada, in 
all 380, embarked on board the ship Harpooner, 
Joseph Briant, Master ; and sailed from Quebec 
on the afternoon of the 27th, bound to Deptford ; 
in charge of Captain Prime. On the passage to 
the Gulf of St. Laurence, moderate weather and 
favourable winds prevailed ; but on arriving in the 
Gulf, the weather proved boisterous, and the wind 
contrary : not a sight of land, nor an observation of 
the sun, could be depended upon for several days. 

On 



262 APPENDIX. 

On Sunday evening, the 10th of November y a few 
minutes after nine o clock, the Second Mate, on 
tvatch, called out, ''The ship's aground !" at which 
time she lightly struck on the outermost rock of 
St, Shott's (near Cape Pine), in the Island of New- 
foundland, She beat over, and proceeded a short 
distance; when she struck again, and filled. En- 
circled among rocks, and the wind blowing strong; 
the night dark, and a very heavy sea ; she soon 
fell over on her larboard beam-ends : and, to 
heighten the terror and alarm, it was perceived a 
lighted candle had communicated fire to some 
spirits in the Master's cabin, \^hich, in the con-- 
fusion^ was with difficulty extinguished. The ship 
still driving over the rocks, her masts were cut 
away, by which some men were carried over- 
board. The vessel drifted over near the high 
rocks towards the main. In this situation, every 
one became terrified ; the suddenness of the sea 
rushing in, carried away the births and stanchions 
between decks, when men, women, and children 
were drowned ; and many were killed by the force 
with which they were driven against the loose 
baggage, casks, and staves, which floated below. 

All 



All th^t were able immediately got upon deck ; but^ 
from the crowd and confusion that prevailed, the 
orders of the Officers and Master to the soldiers 
and Seamen were unavailing — Death staring every 
one in the face — the ship striking on the rocks, as 
though she Would instantly upset ! The screeching 
and pressing of the people to the starboard-side 
Was so violent, that several were much hurt« 

About eleven o*clock, the boats on the deck 
were washed overboard by a heavy sea : but even 
from the commencement of the disaster, the hopes 
of any individual being saved were but very slight ; 
and from this circumstance, combined with its 
appearing that the bottom of the ship was sepa- 
rating from the upper deck, while the surf beat 
over her most violently, it was considered as 
impossible. From this time until four o'clock the 
next morning, all on the wreck wese anxiously 
praying for the light of day to break upon them. 
The boat from the stern was lowered down ; when 
the first mate and four seamen^ at the risk of 
their lives, pushed off to the shore. They With 
difficulty effected a landing cjn the main land, 

behind 



264 APPENDIX. 

behind a high rock;, nearest to where the stern of 
the vessel had been driven. They were soon out 
of sights and it was feared they were lost : but it 
was otherwise ordained by Providence. These 
deserving men, in scrambling up the rocks, made 
their welcome appearance. They hailed us from 
the top, and reported their situation ; saying, to 
return was impossible, as the boat was staved. 
The log-line was thrown from the wreck, with a 
hope that they might lay hold of it ; but darkness, 
and the tremendous surf that beat, rendered it 
impracticable. During this awful time of suspense, 
the possibility of sending a hne to them by a dog, 
occurred to the master: the animal was brought 
aft, and thrown into the sea with a line tied round 
his middle ; and with it he swam towards the rock 
upon which the Mate and seamen were standing. 
It is impossible to describe the sensations which 
were excited at seeing this faithful dog struggling 
with the waves, reaching the summit of the rock, 
and dashed back again by the surf into the sea, 
until at length, by his exertions, he arrived with 
the line; one end of which being on board, a 
stronger rope was hauled and fastened to the rocks ; 

and 



APPENDIX. 265 

and by this rope the seamen were enabled to drag 
many on shore^ from the wreck. 

About six o'clock in the morning of the 1 1 th^ the 
first person was landed by this means ; and after- 
wards^ by an improvement in rigging the rope, and 
placing each individual in slings, they were with 
greater facility extricated from the wreck : but 
during the passage thither, it was with the utmost 
difficulty that the unfortunate sufferers could main- 
tain their hold, as the sea beat over them. Some 
were dragged to the shore in a state of insensibility. 
Lieutenant Wilson was lost, being unable to hold 
on the rope with his hands : he was twice struck 
by the sea, fell backwards out of the slings, and, 
after swimming for a considerable time amongst 
the floating wreck, by which he was repeatedly 
struck on the head, he perished ! Many, who 
threw themselves overboard, trusting to their safety 
by swimming, were lost: they were dashed to 
pieces by the surf on the rocks, or by the floating 
of the wreck. 

About half-past one o'clock on the afternoon 

of 



266 APPENDIX. 

of the nth, nearly thirty lives were saved by 
the rope ; several of whom were hurt and maimed. 
At this period, the sea beat incessantly over the 
wreck, and it became evident the deck was separat- 
ing : and the only means of saving the distressed 
sufferers failed ; for the rope, by constant work, and 
by swinging across thes harp rocks, was cut asunder! 
From that hour^ there being no means of replacing 
the rope, the spectacle became more than ever 
terrific. The sea, beating over the wreck with greater 
violence, washed numbers overboard. Their heart- 
rending cries and lamentations were such as cannot 
be expressed — of families, fathers, mothers, and 
children, cUnging together! The wreck, breaking 
up stern from midships and forecastle, precipitated 
all on it into one common destruction. Under 
these melancholy circumstances, 206 souls perished ; 
and the survivors have to lament the loss of dear 
relatives and friends. 

The Officers and men of the Royal Veteran 
Battalion, who were returning home after a long 
and arduous service in Canada and other remote 
climates, have now lost their all — the savings of 

many 



APPENDIX. 267 

many years-— what they had looked upon with a 
pleasing hope of making themselves and their 
families comfortable with, on retiring from the 
service of their King and Country. By this unfor- 
tunate event, the orphan daughter of Surgeon 
Armstrong lost her father, mother, brother, and 
two sisters ; and the wife and surviving daughter of 
Lieutenant PVihon are left wholly destitute. 

The disaster was so sudden and unlooked-for^ 
that not an article of baggage was saved ; not even 
money, of which some had considerable sums, the 
produce of their effects sold at Quebec, which were 
paid for in guineas, on accdunt of bills of exchange 
being attended with a loss of seven and a half per 
cent. : for immediately after the ship struck, she 
bilged and filled, drowning some, who, from motives 
of humanity, attempted to secure articles of dress 
for the females who were hurried on deck in an 
undressed state. 

The rock which the survivors were landed upon 
was about a hundred feet above the water, and sur- 
rounded at the flowing of the tide. Being high 

water 



268 APPENDIX. 

water soon after the latter of them were saved^ it 
was found impossible for these distressed objects 
to be got over to the main land until the next 
morning. On the top of this rock they were 
obliged to remain all night, without shelter, food, 
or nourishment, exposed to wind and rain, and 
many without shoes : the only comfort that pre- 
sented itself was a fire, which was made from 
pieces of the wreck that had been washed ashore. 

At day-light, on the morning of the 12th, at 
low water, their removal to the opposite land was 
effected ; some being let down by a rope, others 
slipping down a ladder to the bottom. After they 
crossed over, they directed their course to a house, 
or fisherman's shed, distant about a mile and a 
half from the wreck, where they remained until 
the next day. The proprietor of this miserable 
shed not having the means of supplying relief to 
so considerable a number as took refuge, a party 
went overland to Trepassy, about fourteen miles 
distant, through a marshy country, not inhabited 
by any human creature, and the way through a 
morass. This party arrived at Trepassy^ and 

reported 



APPENDIX. 269 

reported the event to Messrs. Jackson, Burke, Sims, 
and the Rev. Mr. Brown, who immediately took 
measures for alleviating the distress, by despatching 
men in their employ with provisions and spirits, to 
assist in bringing forward all those who could walk. 
Necessity prompted many to undertake this journey 
barefooted, as the hardships and privations they were 
enduring were so excessively great. On the 13th, 
in the evening, the major part of the survivors 
(assisted by the inhabitants, who, during the jour- 
ney, carried the weak and feeble on their backs) 
arrived at Trepassy, where they were billeted, by 
order of the Magistrate, proportionally upon each 
house. There still remained at St. Shott's the 
wife of a Serjeant of the Veteran Battalion, who 
was delivered on the top of the rocks, shortly after 
she was saved: — the child and herself are doing 
well. A private whose leg had been broke, and a 
woman severely bruised by the wreck, were also 
necessarily left there. 

Immediately after their arrival at Trepassy, mea- 
sures were adopted for the comfort and refreshment 
of the detachments^ and boats were provided for 

their 



270 APPENDIX. 

their removal to St. Johns. This being eflected, 
his Excellency Admiral Pickmore, the Governor, 
Major King -commanding the troops, and the Mer- 
chants and Gentlemen of St. Johns, most promptly 
and generously came forward, in the most handsome 
manner, to the rehef of the surviving sufferers. 
After remaining ten days at St. Johns, refitting the 
distressed with clothing and necessaries, his Excel- 
lency the Admiral chartered the Mercury, of Poole, 
to bring them to Portsmouth, On this melancholy 
circumstance, it is but justice to mention, that 
Mr. Joseph Briant, Master, Mr. Atkinson, Mate, 
and the seamen of the Harpooner, deserve great 
credit for their unceasing exertions : and to their 
labou!', those that came on shore by the rope in 
great measure owe their safety. 

The loss of the above ship was occasioned by 
an in-draught, supposed to be prevalent in all the 
gulfs and bays of Newfoundland. 



THE END, 



WATTS, Printer, Crowa Court, Temple Bar, 



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